206 Dino cylinder liners/sleeves.

The earliest manual I have is for a 2V 308 GT4.

it states: "Liner protrusion from the gasket face, without seal ring A, must be between mm. 0,01 ± 0.05 and it should be equal for all liners of each cylinder file and near 0,03.
Use gauge 542-CS-6768 for this checking"

This manual does not state how liners are inserted into block.

 

.1mm = .0039 inches, or rounded to .004 inches. That's much smaller than the .04 inches you post. Regardless, I'd also say that .004" is quite a bit of interference that will result in the wall collapsing.

Here is the WSM: http://www.dinospider.com/dino_manual/dino_2_4_Ferrari_manual_complete.pdf

EDIT: just noticed you said 206 Dino and not 246

 

If all else fails, buy and read (factory issued) shop manual.
Honestly, why would anyone even start a job like this without one on hand ?
Copies should be readily available.

 

The liners need to protrude above the surface of the cylinder. The need to contact the fire ring on the head gasket in order to provide a good seal. Too much protrusion will cause the gasket not to crush enough and it will not seal around the coolant/oil passages. It all depends on the type/manufacturer of head gasket.

The interference fit on the liners has a great deal to do with what they are made from,as the coeficient of expansion of the liners has a large impact on this value.

Someone with experience building these motors with the head gaskets that are presently available will know how much interference fit and protrusion you will need. But that comes with time and experience, so getting that information may require that they build the engine.

What does Superformance and the manufacturer of the liners recommend?
How much experience does the machine shop have with Dino motors?

 

You also need to talk to Dave Helms at Scuderia Rampante in Eire Colorado.
Dave has got his new Head gaskets for these cars, as well as all the Carb Ferrari's up and in production, that finally fixes the leaking head gasket saga.
He has had excellent results.

 

The difference between .0015 and .002 is minimal. Temperature change can make the difference. What type of sealant go they recommend?

 

.002 is just right. Any more and they will be very difficult to install. I'm not totally against hitting the outside of the liners with a very light sandpaper, say 1000-1500, wet sanded to meet spec. I would not think removing that additional .0015-.002 too difficult.

 

This is Wade Williams. In my experience, on that style block, .0015-.0020 is the proper press for the sleeves.
Finishing the bore after the sleeves are in will the issue. The main web is so close to the sleeve bottom, it is very hard to hone the bottom of the hole without making the middle too big.
As for the sealing part, I use a liquid type silicone sealer that has a pretty long set up time. This allows you to get the sleeves in and set before the silicone cures.
I do all my own machine work and I am happy to help you if I can.

 

Your not going to remove anything hand sanding with 1000 grit paper

 

repec range is: .07 to .11 MM with the ideal being .09 MM

this is done AFTER the deck has been reground using the center line of the crankshaft as your god reference position
The squaring of the block is then 30 degrees off of the vertical mid-line-which means you need a precision grinding apparatus
I use an 856 Kwik-Way with custom center-less ground, size for size housing bore bars to mount the block into machine. The squaring
is done with Swiss precision instrumentation (Etalon), or Mahr (German)
This dimension is found in all wet liner Ferraris from the early 1950s to the late 1980s.....(been doing machineshop repairs on these since the 1970s, so this isnt my first rodeo)

The REAL problems are sealing in the headgaskets....
good luck there....