208 turbo rebuild and modification

You are correct on the belt! I have another idler that may be used if I notice flopping. One reason for not putting it in the works yet is the turbo for the back side will be mounted where the old AC compressor was, the headers which you see coming around the front will be cut and routed up to a mount which must be attached to the front plate to support the turbo. You have a good eye. Engine turns clockwise looking at it from this view. Hope this picture explains it a little better.
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A toothed belt is the only way that would not slip. The crank pulley is from a 355 with the 60-2 tooth wheel on it so going with a toothed belt would be costly change over. My experience serpentine belts will slip unless they cover more than 90 degrees of the pulley. V groove belts seem to grip better than serpentine but your limited with the 308 selections of accessories that can be used. Serpentine opens up a big world of alternators, pumps and compressors.

Look at this picture of what I did on this 308 motor with a blower. This is the same motor as I am using now.

Check this old video out, the motor was still under tune but I had the blower set to only 2.5 psi boost. Tire spin was crazy in this car, I ask my wife to go with me and hold the computer and read data off to me while I was driving. After the first ride she got out of the car and said she would never get in it again.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66FKLQDbVfI[/ame]
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Here is a couple pictures of the locations (possible locations) of the turbos. Thanks to Chis for his help on measurements. If you notice there is a LOT of plumbing needs for turbos and this is only for the oil feed and cooling, still to come is the oil return, filtered air in, out to intercooler then in to the plenum for the throttle bodies. Oh I forgot!, the exhaust in and out.
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Yes the exhaust is going to be a bear, its one thing to fabricate outside the car and another making everything fit.

As for the intercooler, here is a picture of what was on the car, I hope to keep the same intercooler but will find out when the motor goes in.

Single turbos are great but if you want boost at low rpm levels twin is the way to go, also remember the shorter the exhaust the quicker the heat transfer to the combustion side of the turbo and keeping that heat and velocity in the exhaust is what make them work. The turbo being nothing more than a little jet engine needs that heat to for them to operate effectively. As far as the AR ratio these turbos have a small AR (nozzle size) which is great if your wanting quick spool up but bad if you want high CFM on the output side of the turbo, also the efficiency (heat of the output CFM)of the turbo goes down dependent of the CFM needed at max rpm and boost. That being said I chose a small AR ratio and sized the turbos for a max CFM of of 14 psi. Yes the are IHI RH5 turbos, same found on many cars. They do not have ceramic bearings, they are just old fashion turbos with floating bearings and water cooled center sections. Where this picture was taken I got black flagged for passing to many cars in the straight one being a TR. Turbos are wonderful thing!

I will get the specs of the turbos for you tomorrow, I'm out of pocket now and forgot what they are.
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Sorry I got carried way. Single turbos are fine, this car came with a single unit, it produced with ease 20 psi boost, but even with EFI it took time for it to spool up and until the exhaust got hot it was ridiculous. I wanted boost 2000 rpm or under and quick. Twin turbos and short exhaust provided that hit I was looking for. The cast iron manifolds would have been the BEST. I have 3 sets of turbos for the car, all of them with different ARs and compressor housing sizes that I have used over the years. When I water jet cut the turbo flange I made it to fit 2 different sizes of turbos, this will give me a simple trade over option.

I have had a turbo cars, the Renault R5 turbo 2 (which I miss very much) a lotus S4, both I messed with the induction side of the motors.

I also have a 84 VW Vanagon camper with a 280 HP JDM turbo subie in it.

The Ferrari turbo spec numbers are IHI RHB5 VM4R
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Mine have a smaller AR and will spool quick, yours having a larger AR will produce more CFM and higher boost but you also have a 4 valve car that will flow more CFM more effectively so I would bet them to be a perfect match for those cast iron manifolds. Paul believe me when I say those manifolds are priceless. The turbos you have do not have a water cooled center section but if you let the car idle and cool down the exhaust temps thus pulling the temperature down of the center section of the turbo you will be fine.

 

The turbo kits came in yesterday they are cheap insurance, I don't think anything to be worn on the turbos I have but for $45 each the new bearings and seals will prevent a lot of fowl language down the road.

I am in need of a picture of the cam sync trigger wheel, looking directly at the cam sync wheel as if it were flat. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I had made blankets for them before and also had a piece of metal with insulation on it to shield the firewall and IC. Its (intercooler) been cut and welded many times it looks like a Frankenstein project from underneath. If you look closely there are fans that pull air through the IC blowing down to under the car, they were programed to kick on 150F.

Thanks brother!

 

Look what Santa brought me for Christmas.
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Ha! Yes its the lift, I had a 4 post lift in my other shop, its great but I like this 2 post much better, its not an expensive one (made in USA) but it will serve the purpose for a hobby guy like me. I tried to find one made in the USA but they are twice the price and I can't justify that.