ENGINE CLEANING QUESTION

Be very careful about using any of those engine cleaning products like Gunk, etc., on these engines. And resist the temptation to pressure wash in there. There are a lot of electrical connections in there that do not like to be subjected to water under pressure, and the caustic nature of some of the cleaners can hurt seals, gaskets, etc.

For non-serious clean-up, I've found that using something like Formula 409 or Fantastic works okay to loosen the dust and grime, and then hose it off with a garden hose. I cover up the distributors and coils and avoid spraying cleaner or water on the top of the engine, in the "valley" or on any of the electrical equipment, the crank pulley, timing belts, and transfer case. Otherwise, I use rags moistened with water or brake cleaner to get grease and oil off, being careful what I'm pushing/pulling around the electrical wires, hoses, etc. It's a bit tedious, but much safer than spraying cleaner and water all over the place.

 

Believe it or not but I used some carb cleaner in a can with the straw attachment to get into of the nooks where oil and dirt accumulate. The carb cleaner appears to vaporize the muck and then evaporates within seconds. It is highly flamable so be careful with it. I only used it on non painted areas like the valve covers and there was no staining or damage to the aluminum. Just go slow and use a shop rag to wipe it right away. Use at your on risk. Joe

 

Well, despite all the concern to the contrary, I sprayed the heck out of my 328 engine compartment several times with a water hose and various cleaners with no ill effects. Heck, I'm used to old British cars/Lucas electrics. Compared to them, a 328 is essentially bulletproof electrics-wise!

 

When Tim Stanford did the major on my car back in May he used a pressure washer to clean the engine. I think the trick is getting it dry.

 

For years I've used Gunk and a pressure washer. I figure if water is going to create a problem, I want it to show up in my driveway, not on a dark, rainly highway some late Sunday night.

 

I did a garden hose wash down after using some simple green. Oh boy, biiig mistake. Started car up to dry the engine - car wiouldn't idle, crank sensor and the microplex unit fried, many other connectors had to be taken apart and compressor/heater dried, $1,500 later things were back to normal. Yes, the engine is now really clean...

Use solvent, or wd40 and a rag, or maybe the brake cleaner and a rag, but don't hose everything, or at least not with pressure.

 

So what do you do when it rains?

 

combined with decreaser.
looks great now
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Here is some inspiration to clean, clean, clean.... Dirt & gunk annoyed me also, soooo here is getting her cleaned up-
Worth the aggravation, easier to keep clean once you get it back to as new. By the way, she has 70,000 miles on her so no not a garage queen. She is a driver.
Chris
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I drove mine over 100 miles in the rain, heavy at times and she never sputtered. Of course a carb car with points only has 6 or 7 wires going to the engine, only two of which that would really keep it from running, and no electronics to fry. But I was pretty happy (and surprised) she ran so nice and troublefree.

On EFI cars, any car even a MB, you really should be careful cleaning the engine. The plug sockets are pretty water resistant when new, but water pressure spayed directly can cause trouble, and pressure washing is really a pretty ballistic way of cleaning things, especially around things that are fragile. And with 20 year old connector plugs?

I like plain old solvent (paint thinner/mineral spirits) with an pneumatic aerosol wand, brushes, sometimes some cans of engine degreaser to start it soaking, maybe brake parts cleaner for those stubborn places, and soap and water to finish it off. Its a lot of work, and can be real labor intensive on a filthy engine, and some places on a 308 are impossible to reach with the motor in the car. But a good job can be accomplished if you take your time. Most of the places you cant clean cant be seen, so only you or you mechanic would know.

But especially with electonics, you never want to spray high pressure water at them, and you should always dry off all connectors, plug wires, caps, coils, etc., before making any attempt at energizing the ignition or starting system. Dont turn the key until your satisfied all is well. Use air pressure to blow everything, and dont be afraid to take some things apart to check. If you hose down the engine with water, you should really pull all the spark plug covers off and blow out the holes as well as inspect the insides of the dizzy caps.

 

Stunning, I mean, how much to ship it your way?

very nice job.....inspiration.

 

That looks like a clean engine just after installation in the car. You can see the masking tape on some of the components. Does it look like that now under normal driving conditions?

 

Lots of good advice. I used that spray cleaner (Gunk) and a hand pump sprayer to get rid of the heavy stuff. Let the degreaser sit for a couple of minutes then use the hand sprayer to was it off. The sprayer has the advantage of using low pressure water in small amounts that you can aim accurately so you can keep it away from the electronics, ect. Also can spray the cleaner on a rag and just wipe. For real heavy stuff nothing beats diesel fuel for a degreaser. I did spend some time with the aluminum polish on the cam/timing belt covers and used a brass wire brush around the intake pipes.
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Nice looking, Doug. I would just add that , and it is also recommended on some cans of cleaners, that it is best to spray the cleaner ideally when engine is warm, meaning, after a drive, take advantage, and let it cool down, say, for an hour, THEN spray the solvent/degreaser. So much more happens on a molecular level to warmed up crud by cleaners, in dissolving crud.

Of course, help along with scrub brush, then G-E-N-T-L-E slow spray with garden hose/pump sprayer, and never hit electronics, etc.

 

Boy that looks real clean. Great job!

 

Excellent cleaning on the engine! Extra strength laquer thinner works very well, and will not strip the yellow zinc chromate on bolts, washers, etc. just don't get any on your paint. You will be astonished how well it cleans when all else fails.
Ciao,
George