Some pics of my dirty engine being taken apart. I will post some more as I am still waiting for my parts that are being machined. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'll eagerly watch this thread carefully as interested in Dino engine rebuild for a while now. Please keep us updated step by step and its costs also.
these pictures are great...I am about 3 weeks away from doing the same thing so please keep us posted!
Having gone through this rebuild last year, I'd strongly advise replacing the main oil lines that feed into and out of the filter. Not a very expensive part, and they tend to leak over time. Lots easier to do now, rather than later. Is yours a US or Euro spec, and is it with or without A/C? (unrelated question.) If with A/C PM me as I have made gaskets that reseal the A/C compressor connections and help to avoid yearly recharges. This part is NLA, but I have plenty. The oil lines are part #'s 240761 and 240760 on Euro cars and 240792 (NLA, you have to rebuild this one) and 240767 on A/C equipped cars. Just easier to do now, and save you some hours of grief as this tends to be a pretty leaky spot. (Plus a very messy hose to have fail.) DM
Dave, I did buy new hoses from Rutlands when I was Passing through to Florida a couple of weeks ago, they were steel braided. When I got back my parts supplier already ordered them from Ferrari. so now I will have an extra set, oh well. I also ordered new engine mounts from the dude in Italy on E-bay, hopefully I don't get burped on that deal. I will post pics of the trans. case in a couple of days, alot of scrubbing went into it but it's spotless now. I will post before and after shots.
The heads took a couple of hours to take off, they were siezed. They had developed holes from the coolant passages so they need to be welded and machined. The cams were badly worn so they are being rebuilt. The crank fell within spec and was very clean. New cylinder head studs, as the old ones were badly pitted. All the bearings, valves, seals etc, etc, are being replaced. I will post the exact costs when I am done, It will be for all the parts and machining as I am doing the rest myself, hopefully =). I am starting to wire wheel all the nuts and bolts and everything else that needs to be plated.
I also found a 13mm socket in the casing that sits on the clutch housing, I am not sure what to call that housing. The casing has a drain hole on the bottom and has the three gears in it. It socket would not pass through the drain hole so It took me a couple of hours to get it out from the other side. Anyone who is familiar with the way that area looks like will know that it is very tight and has a small passage for the socket to get wedged in.
A/c or no A/C? If A/C I could use the top line, we should talk. Also, are you doing valves, guides, seats, etc? DM.
In the early eighties we had a rash of Dinos that were dropping valves and destroying the combustion chambers for that cylinder in the process. I am trying to remember if the valves were sodium filled or not? I saw many valve heads broken off and and blown right out the exhaust system. New valves may be a smart investment. I also reccommend using the better quality gasket sets. There are some inexpensive ones out there but you can end up chasing oil leaks after you have gone through all that hard work. Looks like a fun project!
I will second the use of better gasket sets. Elring head gaskets are the way to go. T-Rutlands gaskets seem to be good quality. I have seen engines rebuilt with cheapo gasket sets that have a frost of corrosion on all the joint lines from the acid in the paper.
All the valves are being replaced with stainless ones and all the guides, seals, seats, springs are being replaced. The gasket kit is from Ferrari, I believe they use the Elring head gaskets.
I just bought a 32000 mile 1972 Dino 246GT and want to tear down the engine to replace bearings, rings, etc.. I did it for a Fiat Dino Coupe last year. I sold it two weeks ago. Please describe the process for removing the engine. What to do and not to do. Also, did all Dino engines come with sodium filled exhaust valves and should I replace my exhaust valves with new to be safe. I am going through all the mechanicals due to the low mileage and lack of driving for the past 20 years. Only 6000 miles. Only 400 miles for past 4 years. I want to have all the mechanicals done for Monterey in August. I will then have the paint and interior to do next year. Rich #03510
Stu - I notice that, similar to mine, your engine mounts are not installed as pictured in the parts book. On one side of the engine the mounts are correct-side up, and on the other side of the engine they are the opposite (upside down). Has anyone else seen this? I believe the geometry is such that the height is the same either way, and I am trying to remember whether I did this purposely at the time of my first rebuild 20 years ago. It may have to do with the header heat or clearance. Your thoughts? Jim S.
I followed the diagram shown in the parts book when replacing the engine rubber mounts a couple of years ago and found that the rhs top of the airbox cover touched the engine compartment lid when test driving. Refitting them as per your photos cured the problem Dave
The engine removal was straight forward, just disconnect everything. The trunk lid, engine lid, and the divider all need to be removed. Be very carefull with the lids not to scratch them. The only thing that I removed from the engine was the intake manifold because that is were I bolted my engine leveler to( I would highly recommend using a leveler It makes the job alot easier) . I used four chains and all four manifold mounting holes. The engine has to be tilted once it is partially removed and at this point I had to remove the front exhaust manifold, it was getting very tight so rather than risking any damage, I removed it. I think it is possible to remove it with it still attached. Make sure you have another person or two helping and make sure everything is disconnected before lifting. It is actually very easy. Just takes a bit of time. My exhaust valves are sidium filled. One of them looked like it was soon to come apart, it had a little tiny rust stain near the bottom of the stem. Maybe the sodium leaking out?? I don't know. They were replaced with ss valves. Rich, PM me if you have any ???
Jim, it may be that this is the way it came out of the factory because mine was the same. I have been questioning the same thing.
While I was installing my engine a couple years ago, I noticed that the small aluminum caps (heat shields - P/N 523127) that go over the 2 forward motor mounts do not fit if the the mounts are oriented as shown in the parts manual. When you tighten the long mounting bolts, the center of the cap is crushed inward. I turned all 4 motor mounts upside down relative to the picture in the book to solve this problem. If you look at the geometry of the mounting system, this reversal should have no affect on the height of the engine relative to the frame. However, always check to see that the shift rod that goes into the transmission casing has adequate clearance over the frame cross-member that is about 3" in front of the engine. It's a very close fit and the engine will tend to settle a bit (1/8 " +-) on new mounts after about 700 break-in miles. As I remember, my car had 2mm or so shims under the forward mounts and they are probably original since I've owned it for 28 years. Good luck Bill
Bill and Stu - seems that we share the confusion concerning orientation of engine mounts. The aluminum shields, as Bill suggested, will not fit properly when the mounts are installed as shown in the parts diagram. I suspect that they all came out of the factory with the rear mounts upside down. As I look back, I vaguely remember this situation with my first Dino when rebuilding (1978 or so). When rebuilding the current Dino in 1981 I remember the same issue. By the way, after reading several threads concerning polishing the cast aluminum bell housing, heads, and intermediate housing, what are your thoughts (Bill and Stu) on bringing out the luster in the cast aluminum? Has anyone lightly sandblasted the parts to clean? Thanks for your help, Jim S.
I firmly believe in NOT sandblasting aluminum. I have found mag wheel cleaner and a brass brush to work very well on the cast aluminum parts. NAPA also sells an aluminum brightener which I haven't tried. After cleaning say the bell housing on a Dino with mag wheel cleaner (Autozone, Pep Boys, et al) I use a propane torch or heat gun to evaporate any water left in the casting and while still warm I spray it with WD40 or the like which absorbs into the pores. On cam covers I use mag wheel cleaner and a worn scotch-brite pad which leaves the original lite satiny finish which matches the finish of the NOS head and cam covers I have.
Racerboy - thanks for the input. Sounds like the way to go. By the way, a brass brush will tend to color the aluminum brass. A stainless steel bristle will not discolor the aluminum. Thanks for the help. Jim S.
For your overhaul needs, may I suggest Craig Performance Machine. Marc Craig is an engine builder extrordinaire. He has provided me with higher compression JE pistons and rings, new valve guides, new stainless steel valves plus a five angle valve job and all other machining needs. He has built every engine imaginable and better than anyone else and at a reasonable price. Marc's no. 509-522-3811 Best regards Gary
