250 cam cover gasket/O-ring replacement | FerrariChat

250 cam cover gasket/O-ring replacement

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by fiatosca, Jan 8, 2019.

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  1. fiatosca

    fiatosca Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 20, 2013
    359
    Bloomfield Hills, MI
    Full Name:
    Bob B
    #1 fiatosca, Jan 8, 2019
    Considering replacement of cam cover gaskets on my GTE and have heard that it is difficult to replace the O-ring between the two cover sections. Can anyone provide some tips on best way to approach this? Also recommendation on where to buy gaskets/O-rings>
     
  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,028
    Austin TX
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    #2 Rifledriver, Jan 8, 2019

    It is rather forcefully clamped between the front cover and the cylinder head. It was not expected to be replaced without disassembly of the engine and I am not aware of anyone who has done it. I have just cut and spliced the upper half many times very successfully. I'd get parts from T Rutlands or GT Car Parts.
     
  3. centerfireman

    centerfireman Formula Junior
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    Feb 23, 2015
    374
    Roseville, CA
    #3 centerfireman, Jan 8, 2019
    Welcome back, Brian!
     
  4. 335s

    335s Formula Junior

    Jan 17, 2007
    870
    SF Bay Area
    Full Name:
    T. Monma
    #4 335s, Feb 22, 2019
    Under optimal circumstances...in the "old days", it WAS possible to do this, but really ONLY if the chain-box had been off within a few years previously.
    Those o-ring materials were different. more supple, thinner, etc...and with available then liquid aids, could be persuaded in-it was a time consuming affair....
    The available today's replacements, are REALLY hard, "non-compress-able", minimally pliable, and MUCH thicker in the longitudinal axis...
    These simply cannot be "massaged" (weaseled)into the groove between chain-box and the block/head parting line, even with using appropriate liquid aids...
    Thus, I totally agree with "Signor Lapua"....: forget it unless you pull the chain-box.

    The splicing is the usual alternative: a 45 to 60 degree mitered slice, and advise using "Yamabond 1211" white cement with hi content of solvent(in short NOT the tubes sold in western US. specifically the California version-mandated in 1-'17, a 909% reduction of the solvent content was law of the land, it just isn't the same stuff anymore....If I buy from east coast, it seems to be the good old stuff. Even tube from Ferrari dealer(same brand-different labels, are different behaving than off the shelf versions-FWIW....You should particularly pay attention to the de-greasing procedure(acetone), as cleanliness is godliness(as in no leaks after heat cycling). This glue WILL kick if you heat cycle the car, BUT. you will obtain SUPERIOR capillary penetration by letting it set over the period of a few days, while periodically bringing torque values up to final specs...call it the slow squeeze and squirt penetration method-a proven process....
    good luck
    ciao!
     

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