That's been my experience too; first a small hole, then a bigger hole, then repair the inner sill that you couldn't even see (but you knew would be bad)! If that's the worst of it, you're very lucky
I must admit (because I'm restoring an Alfa Romeo of the 70's) that after removing the outer panel bits and seeing the internal panels looking like this that I'd be removing a heck of a lot more. At the very least this car needs some chemical rust kill sprayed inside these box sections because as we can see there is a lot of surface rust on the internal panels that will simply keep on rusting. But before long I would end up with all outer panels removed ... where to stop? Pete
That's exactly what Al asked us to do. It's ofcourse sad to remove outer skin that's in good health but otherwise you just can't reach the rotten parts of the inner panel. But yes, where to stop? hopefully it will be limited. p.s. Al reported that it's just a matter of mild surface rust, but needs attention nonetheless.
What about dipping and dip treating? http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/index.html Recommended to me by Simpson Motorsport who have had several cars done including F40. My F40 chassis will be going there soon. Will
Some interesting pictures today. Al writes: I have been (VERY!!!!!!!!!) carefully removing the l/h rear quarter to get at the inner structure for the past few days. As you can see it is in very good condition overrall - the worst area being the one that had caused the bubbling on the outer panel (last two pics show the inside of the outer panel.) I have no idea what the loose wiring behind the B post is - I'll try to trace it once I have taken the masking out of the bootlid area as that is where it seems to run to - but it's been disconnected for a VERY long time! I noticed the replies on the thread on Fchat - Randy Forbes I think has missed the last post you put on, and Will (246tasman) makes a very good point about SPL - I have used them before for work - the only issue with that being that the car would need to be completely stripped out with nothing but a bare bodyshell going to them & I really don't thinbk that is feasible - either within budget nor given the generally good condition of the GTE anyway. Also it might be worth pointing out that on the L/H sill area that I have already done I cut away more of the panel than actually needed replacing just to be able to clean off & treat the areas that had heavy surface rust. (Which I have treated in the same way as yours - POR type paint & a weld through copper paint for the areas that needed good welding adhesion). I do hope this makes sense in relation to the replies Peter? I've never seen before what's underneath the skin of a Ferrari. I think these pictures give a great insight. I was wondering if the black foam on the inner skin might have trapped water between both skins and caused the rust. Best regards, Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
There should be two wires at B-pillar: green (?) going to the dome light and grey (?) going to the rear window defroster. Everything else in the rear is grouped into the harness running under the car. Tank sensor wires (2, green and grey) branch off and the rest goes to the junction block located in trunk inside left C-pillar. Best wishes, Kare
Well spotted, that one should be done any day now! @Peter: thanks for those amazing pictures, really interesting to see the inner workings. Onno
+100 . Really is in good condition isn't it and now we can ALL rest easy that anything that was just starting to get excited will be fully sorted. Great work, of course. Pete
I think it is amazing that it is in such good condition - considering that there is very little sign of any attempt to protect against corrosion when the car was built all those years ago.
Here's another update from Al: Inner wheelarch area & frame all cleaned off & holed/pitted metal cut out & ready for the new section to go in. What I really like about the inner structure is that you can see all of the original hammer & tooling marks from the craftsmen who built the body, it's really nice to see Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Work on the fender continues, Al writes: the outer rear quarter has now been repaired (that nasty rust spot above the wheel arch), and the inside of the panel cleaned off and copper coated. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Al's a real metal surgeon. He's about to sow up the patient's rear fender Al writes: The rear quarter is tacked back into place, I will be trial fitting the door tomorrow to make sure the gap has remained consistent before spot welding the panel fully into position. Image Unavailable, Please Login
agree the vintage body takes to vintage color quite well; most modern Ferraris don't take green very well.
Some new updates this week. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I think Al has reached the stage where slowly we're getting back to the GTE's former glory - preparation for the repaint has begun! Al writes: Re-masked, applied the first coat of shaping filler and block-sanded it down, you can see in the pictures where the filler is finding the low spots in the panels where the metal is showing through - rather than how she was before, with the shape just sculpted from filler. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
First time ever I read about a panel being copper coated on the inside. What is the thought behind doing this?
Al has done a lot of work this week, also on the doors. Next week he will start on the priming. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's green again! Well, sort of Al writes: Today, the first four coats of high-build primer have been applied, and a guide coat sprayed over ready for the next stage of sanding; I'm aiming to have the doors prepared, primed and fitted by the end of the week. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Today's update: The inner door frames have been stripped, and as you can see, they are in absolutely remarkable condition. I have also begun dry-block-sanding the body shell primer, in readiness for wet-on-wet primer before paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login