Fantastic.........wood dash and sunroof. I have never seen in person a 250GT with a sunroof. One thing that has always confused me is why do restorers leave out the brackets on the passenger seat where the optional headrest goes.
Nice work on Kerry's car. Not every PF coupe had the passenger headrest. It was more common in the earlier cars. john
The panel is teak veneer glued onto the aluminum. I believe that the teak dash was original. If you look at the chrome pieces, they cover the raw ends of each teak section. Most of those are not on a PF Coupe and are uniquely made or cast to fit the dash. In particular, the long piece with the horseshoe (at the top) is normally two pieces without the horseshoe section. Image Unavailable, Please Login This is the dash when it was for sale on eBay before I bought it. The teak was in poor condition and originally I was going to have it stripped off and the dash painted body color. But after looking at all of the pieces, I decided to put new veneer on it and use all of the chrome pieces. If it was not original, this was done expertly in Italy before it came to the US. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login My car, my choice. For more current pictures, see It's Home, kinda (parrotbyte.com). You can click on any of the pictures to open a hi-res version.
soak your knockoffs in evaporust for 24hrs to remove the rust. will give a nice patina look and prevent further pitting. i did that w my etype wheels.
Yesterday in Rétromobile. 1629 GT. Fred. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Same old engine. It does James Bond proud. I cleared out all the mosquitoes in the neighborhood. The cylinder heads were rebuild in 1968 and the bottom end was rebuilt in 1972. It has done about 4000 miles since then and had 6 oil changes per the records. Cheers Jim Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jim, mine smokes too, even though it has good compression and good oil pressure. As you know, there are no stem seals. It really takes special knowledge on the machinist's part and the inside plug heads should be done by those in the know, or you'll have a smoker. I think that's what happened with mine. john
Having spent some time driving an '80 rebuild with good oil pressure but so Mine too, mainly at idle, but it doesn't seem as bad as I remember it being when I was a kid when it was clouds of blue smoke when we were driving down the road. That was about 1970, engine was rebuilt around 1980 by Dennis McCann's shop. Someone once mentioned that given low miles and very little running for 25+ years the rings might loosen up and help reduce the oil burn, and it seems like it has decreased since its been back on the road. One question that always concerns me is the tendency when braking to a stop, at idle after running at higher revs the oil pressure gauge drops to a very low reading. I've gotten to where I mitigate it by heel-toeing when coming to a stop to keep some revs in and a reasonable pressure reading. But I'm curious whether this is an actual pressure drop (lack of baffling, oil collecting in the front of the pan) or an instrument anomaly. When cool during warmup the pressure is fine, and at any rpm it's solid. Is this a 250 issue, or simply characteristic of the era?
you may put out the old guides, grind the around 1 cm of aluminum down and put in guides where you can put on seals like in the photo. those are from a NSU TT and very good because outside at the guides they are rubber and inside where the valve moves it is teflon Image Unavailable, Please Login and when you are just there you may change the soft valve seats against stronger ones because of the unleaded fuel
I have not experience this. But, it's a good idea to rule out the gauge itself being the culprit. john
My old 330 would change oil pressure if the engine was under load or braking. Even at light throttle loadings at a constant RPM, simply changing the throttle position would change the oil pressure enough to notice it. I had some theories at the time about how the main bearings where lubricated. But I was not 100% sure on the root cause. It was noticeable enough that I did remove the oil pan and inspected the oil pick up tube for possible air leaks into it under deceleration.I think I pulled a main bearing off too. I didn’t find anything. Cheers Jim
By braking I mean engine braking ie letting off the throttle. Under no load the oil pressure would drop. Under load it would increase. cheers Jim
Having a variance in oil pressure when lifting off the throttle or acceleration is because the crank has too much circumferential clearance because of excessively worn main bearings, and when driving at a constant RPM, the oil gets distributed by the crank thru the main bearings and passageways, but much escapes and doesn't flow where it is directed. When it's put under load or decel, the crank shifts and pushes hard against the oiling holes in the main bearings and eliminates the excess oil escaping, therefore, you see an noticeable higher reading on the oil pressure gauge, as all of the oil is directed to lubrication ports, as designed. Change your main bearings, the problem will go away, assuming that the crank journals aren't worn, and dimensionally correct. Gary Bobileff
as gary has written: change the main bearings but also meassure before the crankshaft. you are sure? the oil holes are in the block, so from the crankshaft to the top. when raising the rpm there is then more power from the pistons and so the crankshaft will go more down and not to the block up. we have here a V 12 with 60°. so I see not really why the crankshaft will go more to the oilholes in the block when accelerating?
