Instructions for fixing a headlight switch | FerrariChat

Instructions for fixing a headlight switch

Discussion in '308/328' started by maddash, Sep 13, 2009.

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  1. maddash

    maddash Rookie

    Sep 11, 2009
    5
    Wisconsin
    Full Name:
    Tony Stefanellli
    #1 maddash, Sep 13, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    A member asked me to repost these instructions for fixing a 308's headlight switch so it's easy for everyone else to find it when needed. It's turns out to be an easy fix, but best of luck anyway...

    1. The switch is in the black knob at the end of the stalk and has "lights" and a
    arrow screen printed on it.
    2. There is a small collar at the end of the switch on the stalk side (toward the
    steering colum). See attached picture.
    3. Take a razor blade and work it around between the switch body and the collar for
    a lap just to get it a little loose. Then take a thin flat screw driver and gently
    work the collar the rest of the way off.
    4. Turn the switch clockwise (when looking from the end of the stalk - the door
    handles view). This makes it easier to remember how to put it back together.
    5. Gently pull the switch off the stalk. It takes about 2 pounds of pull force.
    6. Look at the solder joint on the green wire. If this one is good look at the other
    wire on the bottom. See attached picture where the green wire is no longer attached.
    7. Reassemble in the other direction.
    8. The plasic bag over the entire assembly before pulling it apart sounds like a
    great idea.
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  2. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
    7,017
    Groton, MA
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    Verell Boaen
    #2 Verell, Sep 13, 2009
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2009
    The poor solder joint is indeed the most common failure for the GTSi, QV, & 328 headlight switches. I've posted instructions for repairing it many times.

    Using a razor blade & screwdriver in step 3 is both unnecessary, the razor blade can nick the retaining ring causing it to break(don't ask), and the screwdriver is likely to gouge up the knob & retaining ring joint.

    I suggest replacing it with:
    3) Place a plastic knob over the knob and zip it up around the stalk to hold the little ball & spring that will pop out. The knob will pop off of the retaining ring if you just firmly pull straight out on the knob while holding the stalk so the pull is against you and not against the stalk.

    Add the following:
    When reinstalling the knob, make sure the knob is in the OFF position.
    Press the ball down against the spring.

    Align the OFF position groove inside the knob with the ball and push the knob over the ball.
    (If the knob is not in the OFF position, you will probably bend the contacts out of shape & they're a b!#@% to restore(been there).

    Slide the knob down against the retaining ring.

    Support the back of the retaining ring up against the contact holder with your thumb & fingers, then press the knob down over it until it snaps into place.
     
  3. montybates

    montybates Rookie

    Nov 23, 2006
    1
    I had the same problem. Within 30 minutes of reading your solution, I fixed the problem. You people are the greatest!

    I agree with your updated instructions:

    1. The switch is in the black knob at the end of the stalk and has "lights" and a arrow screen printed on it.
    2. There is a small collar at the end of the switch on the stalk side (toward the steering column).
    3. Place a plastic bag over the knob and zip it up around the stalk to hold the little ball & spring that will pop out. The knob will pop off of the retaining ring if you just firmly pull straight out on the knob while holding the stalk so the pull is against you and not against the stalk.
    4. Turn the switch clockwise (when looking from the end of the stalk - the door handles view). This makes it easier to remember how to put it back together.
    5. Gently pull the switch off the stalk. It takes about 2 pounds of pull force.
    6. Look at the solder joint on the green wire. If this one is good look at the other wire on the bottom.
    7. Place a piece of cardboard in between the connections so you don't accidently solder them together, as shown in the picture.
    8. Solder the broken connection.
    9. Reassemble in the other direction.

    Thank you. You all saved me a lot of searching.
     
  4. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
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    East Central, FL
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    #4 Wade, Jan 12, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The lights on my Mondial went out last night and I traced it to a problem within the stalk switch.

    I got it apart this evening but still need to determine a method for repair.
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  5. Tim Wells

    Tim Wells Formula Junior

    Dec 31, 2009
    393
    Dallas, GA
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    Tim Wells
    With it separated no more than it is I would do a dry run clamp up to see how well the joint mates under clamping pressure. I'd use 2 small zip ties myself as they will allow you to see when your joint is mated rather than using tape or something that would cover the crack up so you couldn't see it.

    What you want is as little crack gap as possible, preferrabley none or a perfect mate. This way the overall demension is stock and not oversized to cause interference when you put it back together. Plus the glue will work better that way.

    Now I'd un-clamp it, work some gel slow set super glue into the crack, not too much though as it's not a gap filler, and clamp it back till the crack faces mate perfectly and walk away and drink a beer or three and when you stagger back it'll be done.

    Super glue is strong in tension but weak in shear strength so it would work great in ths application. Depending on the plastic composition, too much glue can melt it a little so use it sparingly since that's how cyanoacrylate glue (super glue, krazy glue) works.
     
  6. afterburner

    afterburner F1 Rookie
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    Jun 20, 2008
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    #6 afterburner, Feb 24, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thank you all VERY much for posting the fixing procedures... got me back on the road within a couple of hours.
    The black wire's soldering point just popped off in my Mondial's light switch and the wire broke off the remaining solder, leaving it too short and in need lengthening.
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  7. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #7 Wade, Apr 24, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. afterburner

    afterburner F1 Rookie
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    Wade, I would try the most liquid type of superglue.
    Have a strong clamp ready to press it into position once the glue is applied.
    Let it dry for 24h.
    Maybe anyone else got a better glue suggestion?
     
  9. Tim Wells

    Tim Wells Formula Junior

    Dec 31, 2009
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    Tim Wells
    #9 Tim Wells, Apr 25, 2010
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2010
    Those are good and proper solder joints you have there. Now a drop or two of super glue in the crack and a clothespin or zip tie to hold it shut while it sets and you're through; it'll never come apart there again.

    Any cyano glue will work, it's just that some are more runny than others and each viscosity has its applications. In your case I wouldn't get too wrapped around the axle over brands or whatever. Just use it sparingly and it will be as strong as it will ever be in a few minutes if applied correctly, it doesn't take 24 hours, that is the design purpose of super glue, to hold fast and dry quickly.

    You can get it in formulas that have different set times if you want to delve into that for other uses. Go to www.stewmac.com and click on glues, adhesives and then the superglues category; lots of info there.
     
  10. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #10 Wade, Apr 26, 2010
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2010
    Thanks for the tips.

    Looking closer... the cracked plastic might be from shrinkage (over time) instead of from stress. I used some Permatex plastic bonder to fill it in.
     
  11. spirot

    spirot F1 World Champ

    Dec 12, 2005
    14,501
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    Tom Spiro
    I have a question about the light switch... I have an 86 328, and my lights work fine, but the switch it self rotates way too easily... there is not "click" to turning the lights on or off.. how can you fix that?
     
  12. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Tom, sounds like maybe someone dropped the ball (see pic in post #4). There's a spring under the ball which provides the "detents". I'd take the switch apart to verify...
     
  13. Owens84QV

    Owens84QV F1 Rookie

    Oct 2, 2001
    4,485
    Somewhere in NC
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    Greg
    I have the exact same problem. Sometimes I accidently hit the switch and my lights pop-up. I need to fix mine. If its missing the spring and ball, any replacement ideas (size of spring and ball)?
     
  14. 1974gt4

    1974gt4 Formula 3
    Owner

    Sep 19, 2009
    1,496
    in my garage...
    Full Name:
    Dr. Italiani
    same situation here...


    shesa loose !



     
  15. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Wade O.
  16. kemullins63

    kemullins63 Karting

    Feb 12, 2010
    78
    Kansas City Missouri
    Full Name:
    Kirk
    I have what appears to be a different problem with my switch, my lights come up at half rotation of the switch knob. Once you pass half rotation, the lights go back down and turn off. You have to find the right balance in the center of the rotation to keep the lights up without the switch rotating either direction and shutting them off.

    The lights work, but it's annoying!
     
  17. afterburner

    afterburner F1 Rookie
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    Jun 20, 2008
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    Hong Kong
    When my soldering joint cam off, the switch acted exactly the same: lights worked at 45°, probably the wire got pushed back onto the contacts. For a while, then it stopped working for good. Open the switch and check the connections before you end up in the dark far from home.
     
  18. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    BINGO,
    You aren't going to get that crack to close by clamping. Most likely you'll just break the part if you try(been there).

    Almost all the cracking on these switches is due to the plastic shrinking down onto a rigid metal piece, usually a stalk.

    I haven't used the Permatex Plastic Bonder, but from the MSDS it's Ethyl cyanoacrylate which I have used from other brands. It's like all the other cyonacrylate 'aka: crazy' glues: sets up quickly when air is excluded by squezing mating surfaces together, but won't build up to fill cracks.

    If there's only the one crack in the thin area of the piece, then most likely the part will be strong enough to last a long time. I've reccommend continuing to use switches with one crack to 10 or 15 owners in the last few years, & so far not one has failed.

    However, if there's a 2nd crack about 100 to 180 degrees away, even one just beginning, then most likely the 2nd crack will get worse & the part will fail fairly soon under operation. I've seen 2 switches with a 2nd crack & both have failed, one under moderate pressure & the other within a few months.

    Permanent fix is to send it to me & I'll cast a new part onto the stalk & transfer the contacts over. See my web page catalog for switch service options & pricing:
    http://www.unobtainiumsupply.com/
     
  19. lbloise

    lbloise Rookie

    Apr 27, 2007
    5
    Davis, CA
    My headlights would not pop up at all. After reading and following the instructions on this post I was back on the road with lights working. It took me longer to solder the black wire than planned but I was still done in 45 minutes. Thanks to all for making this car a possibility to won and drive!
     
  20. Mfoncerrada

    Mfoncerrada Formula Junior

    Dec 20, 2009
    414
    Monterey, CA
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    Miguel Foncerrada
    To "Won" and to own a Ferrari are pretty synonymous...you win/won either way!

    congrats!
     
  21. shashi27

    shashi27 Formula Junior

    Jan 7, 2006
    988
    Long Valley, NJ
    Full Name:
    Shashi
    Were you able to find a fix? I have the same issue. I keep flashing people! Thanks.
     
  22. Raricar

    Raricar Karting

    Jun 17, 2010
    246
    Greenwood Village CO
    Full Name:
    Bill M
    My Gt4 drove me nuts and I was getting worried driving it at night, suddenly the headlights would go off and down... bummer. After messing with the silly little switch I just bypassed it and put a nicely fitting pair of rockers in the equally silly fasten seat belt lamp hole. One blue one for headlamps and a red one for future maybe driving lights. No modification to anything required. I pulled the 1/4 plug and blue wire from the molex and replaced it with a new one and routed to the switch and then to ground. The switches are lighted which is nice but not necessary since you can see the lamps pop up. The still stalk works as beam selection but no longer as the occasional master switch. While I was in there I removed the really strange sounding key warning buzzer and associated loom, hit it all the time anyway. As a side note I found an "O" ring on the back side of the poorly fitted indicator lamps worked well to hold them in place.
     
  23. Raricar

    Raricar Karting

    Jun 17, 2010
    246
    Greenwood Village CO
    Full Name:
    Bill M
    #23 Raricar, Aug 23, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dash photo of my GT4 with rocker switches in the "fasten seatbelt" warning light location. Looks almost stock with no modifications. Blue one lifts the head lights the stalk still controls lights.
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  24. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
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    That's pretty clever and looks "period" as well.
     
  25. Wade

    Wade Three Time F1 World Champ
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    Mar 31, 2006
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    From another thread...

     

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