Exhaust Clearance on 328

I'm not sure how to adjust that spring hanger, but there has to be some way.....maybe others will chime in..

 

Looking at the picture, you can try to support the exhaust, remove the cotter key and pin on the collet. Then attempt to loosen the jamb nut at the bottom of the spring washer and above the collet to possibly adjust height. You will have to counter hold the collet. I have not had to make this adjustment, so do not know if it is possible. On the 328 I have here, it looks like the collet is a seperate piece from the rod running through the spring assembly. Hope this helps and good luck!!!

 

Roy,

Yes, do what you described to compress the spring in order to lift your exhaust. The hangers on my 308 are the same and I had to do just that to adust the height of the Mille Miglia exhaust I installed a couple of years ago.

Barry
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Roy,

I can't see it in the picture you posted, but there's probably another nut at the top of the bolt. Place your spanner on that and turn the bottom nut to compress the spring.

Barry

 

You need to loosen all of the exhaust "donut" gasket connections (and the nuts item 3). Each "donut" gasket connection acts like a ball-and-socket joint, and this gives you the freedom to "rotate" the entire muffler assembly about a lateral axis -- i.e. the inlet pipes go down and the tailpipes go up. Headers and mufflers aren't made to tight enough dimensional tolerances to (always) allow individual replacement and have everything come out right -- the whole thing is meant to be adjusted together as a "system" -- i.e., you need to loosen the connections at each end of both pipes running from the headers to the muffler inlets so those pipes can act like moveable links and "absorb" all of the tolerances:
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I can't recall how much of the hanger bolt is threaded, but I don't think that it is that much, so IME you can't make large adjustments there (and the weird part is that if you turn the nut to compress the springs and expose more threads, this lowers the bolt). IMO, you don't need to raise the box height -- you only need to raise the tailpipes (by rotating the box -- its general height doesn't need to change).

 

*golf clap for Steve*

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Nice muffs

 

Glad to hear that you got it sorted out. It is a little unobvious at first, but since the ends of the headers are in a fixed location, and since you want the tailpipes in a fixed location (relative to the coachwork), you really need to loosen all of the joints between the two in order to achieve a new "solution" -- not just the joints associated with the new component (unless the old and new components are an exact match -- which they rarely are for exhaust pieces).