RobzWorkz #4: Replacing 328 (pre-ABS) Hand Brake Shoes

Hello FChat!!!

I have now completed by suspension rebuild along with replacing the hand brake shoes (part of the effort). I have test-driven the vehicle and successfully tested the hand brake. All is well and now I can publish some of the efforts. Thus I will share with you the replacement of hand brake shoes; also, I will be cleaning all apparatus inside the hand brake mechanism.

As some will recall, it was a faulty (read well-worn shoes) hand brake that caused me to publish the first (and unexpected) effort in my RobzWorkz series. Well, now I have the ability to park my 328 without it being in gear so I can do other stuff.

The process is simple: spend a lot of time, do a lot of work and know how to fix your mistakes. With the hand brake (HB) mechanism, all went fairly well with no mistakes.

To begin, gather you tools, loosten the lug nuts on the rear wheels, and jack the car up on jack stands or raise with a lift. Be sure the car is well supported with rear wheels suspended. One day, I plan to post methods for jacking the 328, but not here. Therefore, it is assumed that you will have the ability to place your car on jack stands or onto a lift without killing yourself.

Remove both rear wheels and place the gearbox in Neutral. After, test rotate the rear wheels as being free. If not, DISENGAGE THE HAND BRAKE (Duh!). If it's fused, I hope you aren't driving it...you have a lot of work to do. I recommend Neutral so you can rotate the disks as needed throughout; I also recommend removing both rear wheels since it will reduce rotation load. BTW, my presentation is for mostly the left side and I will thus refer to this work in a singular fashion (i.e., work on one side at a time).

Now is a good time to review the HB mechanism (pic 1 is the diagram is from T Rutlands site).

Now, remove the disk caliper and the disk. Removing the caliper was easy; removing the disk was a PITA! So, before removal, I recommend spraying with PB Blaster and letting soak (lather, rinse, repeat...LOL). After removing the caliper, if you will be keeping it connected to the brake system, then find a way to hang it out of the way. Since I was replacing brake lines, I just cut the flexible line and removed the caliper altogether.

Pic 2 shows disk/caliper assembly and my removal of the disk retaining bolts (also used for holding the wheel in place after lug nuts are removed); be sure to remove them . Pic 3 shows one of the caliper retaining bolts being removed (sorry for the fuzzy pic). Pic 4 shows me applying penetrant on the disk-to-hub area (well known to rust-up and become immobile).
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Spend your time here. If the HB is disengaged, the wheel rotates when in Neutral and the disk retaining bolts (and caliper, of course) have been removed, then, IDEALLY, the brake disk should slide off. Right!!! Nada!!! Ain't Happinen'!!! Mine was fused by rust.

So, to remove the disk, I loaded with penetrant and left for days, renewing penetrant over the time (interestingly, this was for the Left only; the right came off with little effort). I then tried several methods to remove. Finally, I was able to remove with a 5lb hammer covered with duct tape to prevent metal-to-metal striking. I'm sure it was an effort where the sum of the methods created success.

Pic 1 shows my unsuccessful attempt to SOFTLY use a 3-jaw puller. I don't recommend since force is applied to point areas, even with cloth protection. I abandoned since I thought the force would be too strong on the disk surface.

Pic 2 shows the FINAL SOLUTION: by using a protected hammer and using determined (but not too strong) hammer blows WHILE ROTATING, I eventually saw the disk start to move outward at the hub. After a little repetition, the disk came off. Subsequent inspection of the disk showed that it was fine (also, when test driving, the brakes stopped normally...no runout issues).

Pic 3 shows the treasure: the hub and the HB components. Now, we are ready to replace the shoes. As can be seen, I'm spraying with WD40. What's not shown, is that I had CLEANED WITH BRAKE CLEANER FIRST. The WD 40 was applied to help clean the system while conducting disassembly.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

First, I would recommend being sure the HB cable is loosened. This is shown in Pic 1. Loosen both nuts. Be sure there is some slack in the cable. BTW, I did not remove any cable sections. To do so is straightforward; just use the diagram as a guide.

Secondly, remove the adjuster mechanism: this is done by first removing the spring there (I used a small screwdriver...wear gloves to prevent cuts, etc!); then remove the adjuster. Pic 2 shows a close-up of the spring and adjuster (note the spring provides a stop for the adjuster teeth). Pic 3 shows me using a screwdriver to remove. Pic 4 shows the assembly removed and cleaned. Pic 5 shows the shoes without the adjuster in place.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now is the time to remove the shoe retainers. These are each spring-loaded and retained with a wire hook and end caps. The mechanism is fairly simple when you take the time to understand it. The spring keeps pressure on the shoe; the hook keeps it in place; the shape of the retaining caps prevents it from coming apart after installation.

Pic 1 shows the installed retainer. To remove, you need to 'un-align' it so it pops out. I did this with a small screwdriver and modest pressure. Sometimes, you may need to use a finger or two behind the hub to hold the retainer disk in place while removing. Do this on both shoes. After both are removed, the shoes, along with its retainer spring should easily fall apart.

Pic 2 shows the hole, or via, in the hub assembly, to hold the retainer disk. Pic 3 shows the dis-assembled retainer (the pin, the spring and the retainer). Pic 4 shows the removed shoes. The ramaining part to remove is the cable hookup assembly.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

The cable hook-up assembly consists of two parts: 1) the hook which is held by the HB cable, and; 2) the pivot assembly which causes the HB shoes to spread-out when being pulled by the cable.

Pic 1 is a (blurry) picture of the whole assy from the hub side (on the bottom). Pic 2 shows my removed hub carrier assembly that will reveal that the HB cable has a removable retaining cone/cylinder, which can be seen in Pic 3. After being un-hooked, the assembly comes out and can be seen in pic 4. BE SURE TO NOTE THE ARRANGEMENT OF THE ASSEMBLY AS IT TOUCHES THE SHOES. Pic 5 shows the cable hook-up assembly cleaned and folded like it will be in the hub carrier. Pic 6 shows the hooking loop on the cable. Pic 7 shows the fully un-assembled HB shoe set. The other parts are from my suspension rebuild effort. NOTE THAT THE HOOK-UP ASSEMBLY DOES SEPARATE INTO TWO PARTS.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Clean all the parts of the cable hook-up assembly. Then, re-attach. It can be a bit tricky, but once it's all in there and folded, you will be ready to install HB shoes. I was able to put the hook and pivot assy in an extended arrangement, on the cable loop with the cone/cylinder installed and insert from behind into the hub carrier. I then folded it so it was resdy for the shoes. I used some high-temp caliper grease during assembly; this lubricates and protects from rust.

Pic 1 shows the cleaned cone/cylinder for protecting/retaining the cable, with grease. Pic 2 shows the inserted cable loop. Pic 3 shows the installed/extended hook-up assembly. Pic 4 shows it having been inserted through the hub carrier. You have to push all through the hub carrier to get the pivot to fold. Enjoy the confusion!
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

First, look at Pic 1. The new shoe is the one with pad materiel on it (on top). This pic shows that the new shoe was an incorrect one. I actually ordered from Superformance, and the part #'s were correct. What was apparant was that THERE WERE THREE TYPES OF SHOES FOR THE SAME APPLICATION. Superformance responded very well and provided all correct shoes. The caveat here is to know which shoes you need and how they install.

To install the shoes, you need to insert the spring/retainer assemblies and be sure they are seated. Also, the assemblies will be loose, so be careful and re-check the seating after the shoes are loaded with the springs and the adjuster later. Again, I used a combination of finger pressure and a screwdriver.

Pic 2 shows the retainer disk inserted into the back side of the hub carrier. Pic 3 shows a brake shoe set up with the spring/pin assembly inserted. This is actually the left side shoe when looking at the hub; it will be rotated CCW from the pic view. NOTE: THE SMALLER NOTCH is attached at the hook-up assembly while the larger one is at the adjuster. It can't be seen in the drawing well, but you will notice. Pic 4 shows the positioning of the shoe onto the hub carrier (this is the right-hand shoe when looking at the hub). Pic 5 shows the orientation og the pin with its hooks in the retatiner as it should look from behind the hub carrier.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

With the shoes installed and the hook-up assy ready, install the springs and adjuster. Pics 1 and 2 show both the bottom (at the cable...sorry for the blurry look) and the top with adjuster in place. Be sure to screw the adjuster so it is at its shortest length. Note that the teeth on the adjuster interface with the spring to hold it in place; this is essential to prevent the adjuster from loosening after adjustment. Pic 3 is a close-up of the adjuster with its spring. NOTE, according to the diagram and my pic, the adjuster may be inserted backwards; this is OK as long as you are aware of the rotation required by the adjuster to spread out the shoes (There was no diagram/description in any of my resources to declare which way to turn the adjuster to spread out the shoes; just be aware of the arrangement).
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Now is the time to set up the HB mechanism inside the disk/drum assembly. To do this, I first install the brake disk. It should fit and turn freely (with some effort since both right and left wheels are linked through the differential) as long as the adjuster was at minimum length and the cable is loose. If it doesn't, and the vehicle is in Neutral, you need to inspect/repair more. Then remove the disk and turn the adjuster to spread the shoes a little; reinstall the disk if possible; when it's impossible to reinstall, turn the adjuster a few teeth to narrow the shoes; iterate until the disk installs freely. You are now close to the proper adjustment. Pics 1 and 2 show that I applied anti-sieze on the disk area that meets the hub so as to minimize rust-binding in the future. Install the disk for the last time and bolt down as shown in Pic 3.

FINAL ADJUSTMENT: rotate the disk so as to set the access hole over the teeth of the adjuster. Using a screwdriver, push the adjuster teeth in the direction to spread the shoes. Each push should advance the adjuster wheel a tooth over the spring (I will call this "one tooth"). Do one tooth and then check to see if the disk rotation siezes; it should sieze within a few teeth. After siezing, reverse the adjustment by 4-5 teeth. This should allow free motion about the shoes without binding; the cable will take up the rest when the HB is applied (after cable is adjusted).

After the final assembly is adjusted at the wheel/disk, install the disk caliper and torque the bolts to 32.5 ft-lb. The wheel should still rotate freely. FYI, sometimes the caliper pistons relax, causing the pads to be closer then the thickness of the disk; to mitigate this, insert a large screwdriver, with protective cloth, between the pads and spread enough to install the caliper. The re-installed caliper can be seen in Pic 4.

ADJUSTING THE HB CABLE (AFTER BOTH SIDES ARE COMPLETED): Pic 5 shows the HB cable adjustment. From the beginning of this effort, the cable should have been loosened (if it wasn't loosened enough, you likely figured this out). Also, the HB lever in the interior shoud have been disengaged. While leaving the cable disengaged, tighten the cable at the adjuster with ONE NUT ONLY (two nuts are present: the outer being loose and away from the adjuster; the one next to the plastic retainer applying force) to take up slack and NOT BE VERY TIGHT ON THE CABLES. Then operate the HB from the interior. If the HB shoes engage and hold the wheels/disks (both of them), then there is enough cable pressure; if necessary, iterate adding nut pressure to the cable adjuster until the HB causes wheel lockup when engaged. Check that NOT TOO MUCH adjustment was done by disengaging the HB and checking for free wheel/disk rotation. When the shoes lock up when the HB is engaged and rotate freely when the HB is disengaged, torque the cable adjuster by bringing the outer (loose) nut to the adjuster (tight) nut and self-torquing in that position (use two counter-rotating wrenches); I torqued to a modest hand/grip tight.

Check for proper operation a few times. Then, re-install the wheels and lower the car. Do a mild test drive and re-check HB operation. Check that the rear brake temperatures are not too hot; this is a symptom of permanent rubbing of the HB shoes on the inner drums. Re-adjust if necessary. NOTE: the HB is generally designed for parking applications and only to be used while the vehicle is moving to ASSIST an emergency stop. I do not think the HB would be a life saver in an emergency, IMHO. Proper installation for emergency braking is usually the 'foot brake' configuration. BE SAFE AND KEEP YOU BRAKES IN GOOD WORKING ORDER!

Enjoy FChat,
Rob H.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

SPECIAL NOTE: The part of the Hook-up assembly that is not fed through the rear (not shown in any of the pics) is attached from the front end, just prior to attaching the shoes (sorry about that). Also note that the pin that allows the connection between the pivot/hook assembly to the part that is held to the shoes, can come out, so be watchful.
Rob H

 

Any more peer-review on this?

 

Good idea. I will likely not use any more since it will sieze over time anyway. I'll just get the hammer out.