3.2 Can't Hold idle sounds like a cylinder missing | Page 3 | FerrariChat

3.2 Can't Hold idle sounds like a cylinder missing

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by moysiuan, Apr 12, 2020.

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  1. jkstevens2

    jkstevens2 Formula Junior

    Aug 25, 2015
    278
    Winter Park, FL
    Full Name:
    JK Stevens
    Here are more reference material I found regarding the Bosch CIS system. I have several other pdf's but they are too big to upload
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,150
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    That may be, but I think it's better to go thru the following diagnostic steps (in this order based on the cost/hassle of each) before deciding to do that:

    1. Confirm/deny all electrical components are working by measurement.

    2. Confirm/deny basic pressure parameters by measurement -- regulated supply pressure, fuel delivery rate of pump when at pressure, lower chamber pressure, return fuel flow rate from fuel distributor lower chamber to tank (this confirms the orifice at the outlet of the lower chamber is not blocked).

    3. Confirm/deny fuel distributor performance by measurement (equal flow rate -- i.e., equal volume delivered in equal time -- from all injectors with the airflow plate in idle, mid, and WOT positions) -- the "dixie cup test" ;)

    Pass 1 and 2, but fail test 3 = call Larry F. for rebuild -- JMO (and I'm still not sure that the OP has passed test 1 ;))

    This is the 539/89 manual that Ferrari (meaning Bosch) put together for KE3-Jetronic:

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    and this link will get a pdf copy:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/95x8kzktl58rbjt/Bosch KE3-Jetronic 539_89 as implemented on late non-US 328 and 3.2 Mondial.pdf?dl=0
     
  3. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    Nov 1, 2005
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    Thank you for the extensive information. The testing I have done so far leads me to think I have a spark problem, as I am not getting consistent sparking on both banks. Hard to test for as the engine will barely run. I am trying to rule out various more obvious things, and so far have not found anything. So my current challenge is to figure out if I am not getting proper spark, definitively. My current plan is to change the no doubt fouled plugs, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the car while checking each lead for spark.

    Strangely while driving the car for about half an hour before the problem returned, I was able to limp home quite a ways, clearly with some cylinders not running and lots of raw fuel smell, and all that time the slow down light never came on, nor do I see any sign of cat overheating. But there is no question I am dumping raw fuel, while testing for spark I have fuel soot spewing out the exhaust. Yes, the oil will need changing...
     
  4. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    Nov 1, 2005
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    That is great, thank you. Yes, I am on step one, step zero being ruling out very simple problems first.
     
  5. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
    You need to drop a 360 crank in that motor while it's apart !
     
  6. MvT

    MvT F1 Rookie

    May 25, 2013
    4,248
    The Netherlands - NH
    Full Name:
    Tijn
    I have a Deja Vu what happened to me last year in Italy. When I was waiting at a busstop for the rest for the gang it suddenly looked I had misfires and I lost half of my power together with an overwhelming smell of Ferrari Au de Cologne (Petrol smell). Turned off immidiate not sure what was going on. Since we had plan for that day I hopped over into my friends Ferrari and we left it at a good restaurant friend to pick it up in the evening.

    I started again and same story. However one side of the exchaust manifolds stay cold so it was obvious that it did not ignite. so this meant the Rotor, Distributor cap, Ignition coil or the Ignition module and if in worst case the ECU. The first 2 were in order after a relatively quick check so we decided to swap the coils and after that the other bank had the issue. Then swapped the ignition modules and the problem was on the other side again.

    I noticed also that the heating paste was totally dried out (my mistake to never look at it while I know these things) Well... I had all the other parts but not the module! Now that we are in Holy Land, land of Ferrari it should'n't be that difficult to get an ignition module! Got myself wrongthere.. No seperate modules only the whole package Coil bracket, coil and the module for 1000 USD and 2 week delivery time :confused:

    I had it delivered home from Verona Ferrari dealer to Amsterdam again since I was insured.

    Tested affected module with a ignition module testing tool and it was completely dead. We looked at some comparisons as the Magnetti Marrelli one is difficult to find and outrages prices. So we picked out a Hella 5DA 006 623-001 Module for 40 USD and replaced boths modules. Problem gone and one spare Magnetti Marrelli for in my suitecase!

    What I am trying to say it could be the Ignition module, but I love stories :) IMHO it smell like a Ignition module story :)

    Not sure what is more expensive to buy new modules or have them tested. Only view people have the right equipment!
     
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  7. MvT

    MvT F1 Rookie

    May 25, 2013
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    Tijn
    view = few
     
  8. Subito Grigio

    Subito Grigio Formula Junior

    Jun 2, 2009
    338
    OK. Call me silly - but I would have sent the car to SRI Dave Helms (or similar based on FChat input) way before this point.

    In my experience with ‘83 QV (owned 18 years) these 38 year-old cars tend to have 2 to 3 issues happen almost at once - making simple, single fixes impossible. (To avoid 2 to 3 issues arising -almost every aspect of operation must be kept in proper working order).

    I second the motion to send it to a Mondial friendly expert - especially since you say raw gas is flowing out the back.

    Some of us have been in exactly the situation you are experiencing.

    Stay Safe, SG


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  9. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    I am in Toronto, and there are very few local mechanics with the experience and interest in working on these old cars. There is no Dave Helms equivalent near me. Having maintained the car mostly myself for 14 years, I simply consider this a challenge to solve, and this is the first time I have been unable to quickly diagnose an issue. I am meticulously ruling various typical things out, for various reasons I can only spent a bit of time each day so this may take a while to sort. I did get the car running properly for about 15 minutes today after changing out the fuel fouled plugs, but then the problem reverted (this was the case previously where I thought a tachometer sensor change solved for the problem before reverting, it was probably just fresh plugs then too that made a temporary difference. )While the misfiring symptoms point to ignition issues, my current theory is that the car may be running so rich that it floods in short order fouls the plugs and and then gives spark misfirings. This is why figuring out spark verses fuel as the core issue is proving more difficult than I would have expected.
     
  10. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
    A cold motor likes a rich mixture. It's the function of the electromagnetic actuator, in conjunction with the injection ECU to lean out the mixture during warm-up.

    An easy way to test for a rich mixture is to move the sensor plate (air flow meter) up. There's not a lot of adjustment space at idle, because the sensor plate is almost closed. Just open the throttle a bit, and the plate will move down. Then you have space to move it up just a bit. You can pinch the center bolt between your thumb and middle finger. Simultaneously open the throttle with your right hand, and move the sensor plate up a bit with your left hand. If the misfire goes away, you know you're too rich.

    The best way to clean plugs is with a torch. When someone says they're going to go out on the highway and "blow the carbon" out of the motor. What they're really doing is getting the spark plugs hot enough to burn off the carbon.

    If it works for an MG, it will work for anything !

     
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  11. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    Bear in mind that if the diaphagm in the fuel distributor head has split, then the volume of fuel injected can drown the plugs. The repair kit is on e bay at about £50 last time i looked, the distributor has a bosch id plate on the side so u get the correct kit. Very easy to fit as simple diy job. The car i saw it done on was back firing, black smoke and filling the sump with fuel( plus 2 inches)
    Some cylinders were getting nothing and others were on full fuel.
     
  12. Jeka

    Jeka Formula 3
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    Nov 20, 2010
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    Johan
    There is still the cold start injector which could be leaking. If running too rich, a wet plug will prevent a good spark. In this case the bad ignition looks like result of a too rich mixture.
     
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  13. MvT

    MvT F1 Rookie

    May 25, 2013
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    Tijn
    Didn't think of that since I disabled mine, but a good one!
     
  14. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,150
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    One thing that happens a few minutes after cold start-up is that the system transitions from running open-loop (cold) to closed-loop (warm) -- have you tried simply unplugging the O2 sensor (which will always force open-loop operation)?
     
  15. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    So this is where I am at:

    I have ruled out spark (unless its the ECU).

    What has been confusing me is as follows:

    When I put new plugs in, the car starts and runs. The idle seems to hunt a bit, but generally runs ok, not perfect the way is used to, but the car can be driven for about 20 minutes. But then it starts to miss, like one or more cylinders are not firing. Eventually will not hold an idle, will stall and not restart.

    The culprit is the fuel mixture is way too rich, and is fouling the plugs, which then presents non firing cylinders as if spark is the problem. If I change the plugs, the outcome as described prevails.

    So something is causing the fuel mixture to not be metered correctly. All the plugs foul, so it is not specific to any cylinder.

    I have disconnected the cold start injector, no difference. I have ruled out the O2 sensor, disconnected it, nol difference then eventually changed it out for a new one, the old one was very fouled. Disconnecting the TPS (with the proper contacts bridged) made no difference.

    As described before, if I pull the fuel pump fuse, the car starts right up, and runs briefly smoothly, suggesting it never was spark related. So I am now past step one of Steve's comments, and am no longer on spark. I may change out the TDC sensor just for fun since I hacve ordered it.

    I will do sonme further volt meter checks of various things per the manual to see if there are any clues, altough am limied without the interconnector to do all the tests.

    I do not have a pressure tester, anyone recommend one that would have the correct metric fittings to hook up to two sides of the disrubutor like shown in the KE3 manual?

    Other than things in the guts of the injector plenum and fuel distruibutor, could a faulty fuel pump cause the problem, ie. will inadequate pressure cause the problem I am dealing with, it is counterintuitive that low pressure could cause over rich fueling? A failing/leaking pressure regulator?

    I may well end up tasking this to a shop, but even then I want to go with as much information as I can assess on my own first. I hope I get lucky...
     
  16. spicedriver

    spicedriver F1 Rookie

    Feb 1, 2011
    3,859
    The Baum Tools kit looks to have all the different adapters.

    http://www.baumtools.com/shop/BMW/Fuel-Injection-Tools/1318KIT-FUEL-INJECTION-PRESSURE-TEST-MASTER-KIT?cPath=14_49&zenid=70b66901014d8f7d357b2554f6b25e67#.Xp-YRClKjIU

    On the K-Jet with Lambda, a low system pressure will cause a lean condition. I had this from a faulty accumulator. I'm not really familiar with the KE3, but the fuel distributor is the last thing I would mess with. I would replace that system pressure regulator first, and another part you have called the system pressure accumulator. These are standard Bosch parts, and shouldn't cost too much. And test whether you are getting a signal from the injection ECU to the magnetic actuator. You may need an oscilloscope for this.

    Hopefully the fuel pressure tests will help point to something.

    You can run the fuel pump by turning the ignition key to the run position, and removing the safety switch jumper on the mixture control unit.
     
  17. MvT

    MvT F1 Rookie

    May 25, 2013
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    Tijn
  18. Jeka

    Jeka Formula 3
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    Nov 20, 2010
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    Johan
    If you unplugged the cold start injector electrically, it still can leak mechanically. So it's not fully ruled out as a cause. The pressure regulator is probably more suspect though.
     
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  19. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    Look up Ermeto fittings to see if they look like the fittings u need
     
  20. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    Is this replacement diaphragm just a bolt off bolt on replacement? ie. Does the unit need any sort of adjustment or calibration or is this replacement as simple as it looks, probably can do it in car verses on bench?
     
  21. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    #71 moysiuan, Apr 22, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2020
    Anyone have the Bosch cross reference for the fuel pressure regulator (not the accumulator), Ferrari pn 128972?

    Is it 38161013, hard to read on mine, its on the underside and the numbers are a bit faded on the cad plating.

    Is this the same as the 043816103 tht seems to be out there from various sources? Can't seee the 04 start of the number on mine.
     
  22. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,150
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    My notes have Ferrari PN 128972 = Bosch 0438161013

    Have you made a pressure measurement? (Don't buy one if you don't need one! Also, shop around if you need one -- seems to be available from about $60 US to $500 US ;)).
     
  23. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    No, but I figure with a 32 year old car renewing some items as part of my ongoing rolling restoration with a view of driving for the long term is in order, and I may get lucky along the way.
     
  24. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
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    I hacve looked at some rebuild you tube, it looks doable but the odds of causing damage are not trivial, so would not want to open it up unless I was more certain that would solve for things. I might end up there, but not there yet.
     
  25. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    From what i remember from the one i saw being done, you disconnect the pipes on the top and remove the top cover, you will find a diaphragm and 8 nylon discs and springs etc, just a matter of new for old. Look on the side of the distributor for the bosch id plate to be sure to get the right kit. The owner doing this was not a motor mechanic but a machinist and he managed fine. Kit was about £50
    Not seen him for a while so might have retired, will see if i can find him to see if any pics
     

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