3.5 Liters upgrade for 308/328 (303 HP)

Looks nice, adding a blower is cheaper and FAR less evasive.

 

Fixed

 

Mike, do you have a day off today??

 

Pizzaman shouldn't read this thread
Pizzaman shouldn't read this thread



Oh dang, too late....

 

Maybe evasive IS the right word.

"Sure, its a bone stock 308. How come yours doesn't run as good? I guess yours must be a piece of crap".

I think they call these sleepers.

I kind of like the idea, looks stock on the outside, but works better on the inside. Dunno what they cost, unless he is charging a fortune for the crank, it wouldn't seem like it would be a whole bunch more than a std rebuild that uses new pistons and cam regrinds, assuming you are going to do a rebuild anyway. Liners and rods of course add $$.

Doug

 

Mike I'm off to,and hate it every min. did we catch up with each other at C.I.? My car was by the marathon motor home

 

That kit has to be at least $5k

 

Isn't that Nick Forza's motor?

 

Nick has a stock crank and an 89mm bore. This kit looks like an 85mm bore and new crank or maybe a modified 348, 355, or 360 crank.

 

I've traded this idea in my mind for several years now... But, with today's market prices for F-cars, here's where I've landed ----

$30K (for "good" 308) + $30K (for the Carobu engine package) = $60K

and

$60K = a "good" 355

but

a good 355 > a good 308 with the Carobu powerplant

 

If you got $30k to spend on the drive train you should be able to start with a $15k car and redo the suspension and interior while you're at it ... I think more people will see this as a viable option as rough 308's get cheaper ... I'm still shocked at the 308 I picked up almost 2 years ago for $15k ... brand new interior and paint but high miles ... with the way the economy is there's got to be more of 'em out there.

 

A stock rebuild is $20k-$25K if you drop the engine off so really you are talking about $5-$10 for the extra hp. I think that's the market.

 

I think if someone was willing to drop their engine off and write me a check for $20-$25k for a "stock" rebuild I would give them a lifetime unlimited mileage warranty ... only contingency would be some kinda rev limiter and oil change receipts LOL.

wow ... I thought that included R&R and all incidentals like misc gearbox bits/seals perhaps.

cheers

 

Yeah, i should stay out of these threads.







Quick, someone slap me side the head!

 

Kind of hard to tell - is it just a matter of a larger bore (based on different liners) or is it also a stroke kit with longer throws on the crank and wrist pin set higher in the piston???

3.5 litres with stock appearance is pretty nice, particularly if the compression could be bumped slightly. However, 4.5 litres would be really, really nice.....

 

I should also.

The best idea IMO would be to purchase carbed 3.5 engine complete, put it in the car I have now, keep the OEM on stand in garage.

 

I figure my car is free, it was paid for a long time ago and I drove the snot out of it. Even though it is original, except for the fuel pump, it isn't worth anything to a collector because restored or not, it is a 100,000 mile car, so why not? Add some CC's and HP during the rebuild; though I am pretty sure that it can be done for a a lot less than $30K, assuming I R&R the motor myself, and I am perfectly capable of installing valve covers, carbs, etc. It would obviously cost a fair bit more to have it fully assembled and dyno tested and tuned prior to install.

I came up with an estimate of about $10K for a stock rebuild with reground cams, and new pistons and exhaust valves, assuming other parts didn't need to be changed. Plus extra $$ for headers and larger displacement. Add a few thousand for shocks and new suspension bushings/parts/shocks/brake refresh, and it will essentially be a new/much quicker car, ready for another 100K miles.

Doug

 

Thats what I am doing now with a 328 motor but we are going to shorter rods as well because I wanted better rods no matter what. It will also wind up at about 10+:1

Going to over 3.5 with a stock 308/328 deck height is making some compromises that I think are dumb. Liners getting thin, spacing between cylinders for cooling, pulling the pistons too far out of bottom of cylinder etc.

There is a reason the basic architecture of the motor stopped at 3.6.

 

Shorter than the stock rods? Why did you select that, other than improved low end torque? Any other reason? Side thrust is increased in a negative way.

Depending on your application, moving the wrist pin up has advantages, especially if you are trying to cram 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag..

Thanks,
Doug
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The liners in the picture are standard 348/355/360 from the look of them. I’m not sure what the crank shown is. I can put in touch with a guy who has a set of 360 liners and crank at a good price, if you’re interested. PM me

Mark