3" Race Safety Harness (Sabelt or OMP)

#7 must be welded in from the kit or homemade and welded in. I've done this before but it does require removing some of the back leather shelf for access to weld then poking a hole through the leather or leaving that panel off for the shoulder anchors. Oh floor plates can be sandwiched and not welded but me personally would reinforce the floor. Any place you put a floor anchor that dents if you lift the car there with your floor jack is too weak IMO. But people do it all the time. 3000lbs is only 20g's for a 150lb man. 20g's is a 35mph crash delta. 50g's crash delta is 45mph. racecars with data aquisition have recorded very surviveable 100 G crashes so you see where I'm going with this. Some would argue 150lb guy divided by 5 pt harness = 30 therefore 3000lbs without deformation is 100G's. equal division don't exactly work but you can see that one would want any single anchor point to be able to survive 3000lbs force or the weight of the car. Since my physics is not good I tend to overbuild.

 

My car came with a harness bar which bolts to the rear fire wall then the eye bolts are fitted to that.Dont know where you might get one from but i think mine was supplied with the roll cage.

 

Quite a few of us use a bar behind the seats that has arms on it onto the original upper seat belt mounts. Ill try to remember to take a pic. its supplied here by qv and fits 348 and 355. quite heavy but no trouble passing scrutineering. I then use reinforced floor anchors. what always surprised me was the belt anchors onto the seat itself that is then held in by very small bolts. Im sure it passed some sort of test, well assume it did, but would prefer making own if keeping original seats.

Just thought us belts very different so none of this may make sense! some have managed system that keeps both new harness and old belts for use of use on the road. as i've removed airbag steering wheel i prefer harness all the time.

 

If you're running a roll bar in a road car, make sure you have your helmet on. Otherwise you may get a roll bar-shaped dent in your skull when some idiot rolls into you from behind.

 

Not more of a problem than anything already padded in your car to hit. There is metal under all that padding on your A and B piller etc. Additionally this is for that exact issue for dual use cars.

http://www.apexperformance.net/CartGenie/prod-1603.htm

 

No do that custom. The challenge application is quite out of date regarding modern racecar safety systems. For example there is not ferrari spec for shoulder anchor placement and HANS use. Once you use a 5+ point harness some kind of head and neck restraint should be used. If you use HANS there are specific FIA and Scroth Harness rules for anchor mounting or the old general HANS rule that puts belt centers about 3" apart. Different harness types use different anchor locations for HANS as an example. 99% of HNR add about 1"-2" to your shoulder height which effects proper anchor placement. If you are smart about doing this you buy your seat first and position it. And you buy the harness you are going to use and follow those or HANS instructions if you use HANS for posterior anchor mounts. Improper mounting can make HNR fail to protect you even if they feel fine when in a static position.

 

This is the harness bar , hope this helps
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My 348 racecar saw several iterations over its life from a streetcar to challenge car to full no interior racecar. Here is a pic of where to mount the homemade challenge type shoulder anchors. Then the anchor plate I welded up. I thickened then threaded the plate and welded nuts behind it too...total overkill. I still have one of those plates sitting around my garage somewhere if you are too lazy to make one. Ferrari had those threads for the eyebolt exposed like a threaded cylinder welded on their weldable plates which stick out on a streetcar with the fascia in place. The car's mount location is on that square boxed piece you see in the picture. So you can drill it for the nut clearance so my plate sits flat and weld a plate to the box form so it is relatively flush with just the Eye bolt sticking out. You can then put in the fascia and when you remove your eyebolts you can put a plug over the fascia and hide the hole. Voila, back to instant streetcar.
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