$300 F40 Bolts?!

$300 each?

That is utterly insane.

You could have a machine shop custom make you them in titanium and anodize to your preferred color, and heat treat, for that price, and still have 2 grand or more left over.

Can you say what the numerals on the head are? I can't make it out from the picture.

I doubt it would need to be grade 8 for a header flange. At 10mm it should be 1.5mm pitch. You can buy such bolts at:

http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=10782+12PT+FLANGE+BOLT

Those are 12.9 grade... a grade 10.9 is equivalent to grade 8, grade 12.9 is even stronger... so certainly would be strong enough, and then some. Not sure what the length is (I am spoiled by digital calipers, haven't read a slide caliper in years) but they have various lengths on the site, less than a buck each.



As for removing the old one - do you have anything to work with? Is it protruding at all, on the front or back side?

Generally, for a bolt that's stuck tight, you pretty much have to either relieve the tension (which should be if the head is snapped off), then soak it until the cows come home in liquid wrench or similar... then if you are lucky, cut a slot in it and get it out with a screwdriver, or weld on something you can turn, like a nut (of course it must be sticking out)... or drill it out.. or overdrill it and helicoil it... or get it EDM'ed out.

I've successfully drilled out lots of bolts... if you can VERY CAREFULLY center drill the bolt... then just keep going up and up in drill size until you are almost at the threads of the piece the bolt is in. At some point, there is just no strength left and the shell of the bolt comes out super easy.

 

Here you go in titanium for $5.10 each.

Follow Mike's technique to drill the broken one out.

http://www.racebolts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=623_624_625

 

This is one of the reasons why Ferrarichat is so valuable. You literally just saved him thousands of dollars.

 

Have you tried an acetelyne torch and PB parts blaster?
I'm really not familiar with the location or if using direct heat would affect anything adjacent to it, but when threads are stuck and all else has failed then a little thermal expansion backed with superior penetrant has worked for me.
Best luck.

 

Sadly, just one of many, many reasons I will always be an aficionado, but likely (unless I win the lottery, or inherit far more than I thought my parents had) never an owner.

Ridiculous.

-Tad

 

Take the part to Ken Augustine, Kenetic Analysis, in San Rafael. He will get it out, but he is expensive, but he will get it done.

Art

 

ARP has ss 12pt metrics, the best available. Broke one of mine as well. Do not use a Ti bolt in the Turbo housing you will never get them out. Use nickle based antiseize for reinstallation.

 

Hmmm... I have always wanted to buy ARP fasteners for my F cars before, but ARP web site does not really list that many metric screws. Can you recommend an ARP dealer that's well stocked in metric fasteners?

Just now I Googled APR Stainless Steel bolts and found this site.

http://www.allensfasteners.com/

It lists ARP stainless steel 10mm x 1.5mm pitch x 30mm length 12 point flange bolts for $3.02/pc. A lot cheaper than Ferrari price of $300/pc.

Once, I was quoted $1,500 for a 10" length of F1 hydraulic hose for the 360 Challenge. I took the old hose to a local hose shop to swage the OEM banjo fittings onto a new 10" section of SS braided hose for $10. Even with new banjos it would have only been $20.

Titanium screws are probably not the best choice in this application where there is huge fluctuation in temperature range. Titanium thermal expansion coefficient is about 52% of aluminum and about 68% of steel. And depending on the titanium alloy it may also have some high temperature yield strength issues.

 

I must see this necklace

And I hope you will wear safety glasses when you present it to her

 

Depending on accessibility if you can heliarc a "handle" on whats left of the bolt it should turn right out while its still hot. (heat breaks the corrosion bond) I've done this many times. Never had any luck with penetrating oils


Plus 1 on ARP fasteners, they are the best you can buy

Plus 1 on do not use Titanium bolts, Titanium galls unless specially treated

 

I've had galling with SS even when used with anti seize.

 

summit racing, search on internet. Ti bolts are not recommended for high temp applications and the bolt shown screws into a blind hole in the turbo exhaust housing. Ti would not be a good choice since it is reactive and galls easily.

 

The ferrari turbo bolts are most likely inconel.

 

If you want to go directly to a manufacture:

http://www.osstainless.com/materials/np35n.php

 

Your photo shows "KASB" ?

There is a very heavy duty turbo Used in Ford Trucks made by KASB.

I wonder if these bolts are used in KASB Turbos?

http://www.wideopenperformance.net/product.aspx?ID=91

 

Yeah, me too. They want to charge me 306.00 for a 15" high pressure stainless fuel line for the TR.

 

Weld something on and the heating should allow you to work it loose, as stated above. Trivial for any good mechanic/machinist.

Bolt says KAB, S8.

Did you ever, even for a nano-second, actually consider paying the dealer price?

 

Let us know how this turns out, hopefully a good conclusion. Were you running without cats, hence the smog issue, or? Asking so that I can anticipate what I'll need to do come smog time. Thanks.

 

good luck with that racebolts website. I contacted them for titanium hardware for my R1 and was very disappointed with the customer service as well as their stock. You have to be careful with titanium hardware - it's not all created equal. I've bought ti hardware and had blown threads on the bolts, etc. You have to machine titanium differently than steel.

Anyway, if you want high quality hardware, check out www.tastynuts.com

That's where I buy all my ti stuff these days. They have those bi-hex nuts/bolts also (the 12 point stuff). Here's a pic of one I used on the rearsets for my bike.

You might consider changing over to using nuts and studs, as opposed to bolts on the turbo housing, btw (if you have room). Also, put copper anti-seize on everything when you reassemble it.

Ray
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Wow.............just wow!