RobzWorkz #5b: 328 (non-ABS) Suspension Rebuild: Rear, and Axle Boot Replacement.

Hello again FChat!

This is the second installment of my earlier effort at rebuilding the suspension components on my 1987 Ferrari 328 GTS. This is exclusively for the rear components. Included herein is the replacement of A-arm bushings, shock bushings and axle boots. As part of the effort, much cleaning and reconditioning was completed.

IT IS EXPECTED that the reader of this thread has reviewed and understood RobzWorkz #5a for the front suspension. These threads, #5a and #5b comprise the complete installment of the #5 thread series. Most of the techniques for the rear suspension, such as replacing A-arm bushings and shock bushings, tack-welding the new A-arm bushings, cleaning/prepping/painting parts, replacing brake lines and such are identical to the #5a post. The setup and safety stuff is applicable as well. Please consider this as supplemental to #5a.

FYI, I was thinking of providing a separate thread for replacing the axle boots, however, I neglected to take a sufficient set of pictures showing the actual boot replacement effort. Thus I feel it is only an auxiliary portion of this thread. There are other threads on this that will serve you well, and I will reference some You-Tube videos for clamping the boots.

BASIC DIFFERENCES from RobzWorkz #5a:
1. you will not need a pickle fork or ball joint separator; however, you will need a hex driver to remove and install the axles;
2. you will not replace tie rod ends;
3. you will have more, and heavier, components to deal with, namely the hub carrier assemblies and axles;
4. instead of replacing ball joints, you will be reconditioning (or replacing if you see fit) bushings, washers and rubber rings;
5. the lower rear suspension forks are similar to the front forks, however, there was no recall associated with the rear ones;
6. you will have to deal with the parking brake assembly; please refer to RobzWorkz #4 for details on this one;
7. you will need a tool, such as a Band-It tool, to use for clamping the axle boots;
8. you will be using different diagrams and torque values for the rear suspension.

As a necessary evil, I will repeat the precursor steps from #5a:
1. disconnect battery (so as not to start the engine).
2. place car on level surface; garage is best.
3. loosen the lug nuts.
4. jack up the car safely on jack stands all around: note, even if only doing the front or rear, I recommend using 4-point jack stand placement; having the car on wheels and getting under it is a no-no...the car must be level in order to get under it (note you can use ramps on the end not worked on, just to even out the car in its lifted position). Be sure to use jacks on frame areas only...not the bumpers (recall Ferris Bueller). Of course, a lift will accommodate all thiese concerns.
5. remove wheels on the end you are working (in this case the rear. I did all four in this effort).
6. gather your tools: wrenches, joint separators, gloves, ft-lb torque wrenches, 5lb hammer, axle boot banding tools, etc.
7. remove associated wheel well components...see Easyrider7467's write up in the sticky section: both front and rear wheel well panels are easy to remove, clean and restore...I used undercoating with black engine paint.
8. print out the diagrams shown in the figures below for reference/torque limits.

To begin, I will provide the diagrams and torque values suitable for this procedure.
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NOTE: it is not necessary to remove the axles to replace/improve the rear suspension; just be sure to limit excess stress on the axles themselves while working!

Removing the axles is simple enough if you use a screwdriver placed into the associated rear rotor and set at a stop (this idea was given by Ernie, I believe, so credit is due to him). To remove, use the hex driver to loosen the hex-driven bolts. Use a torque pipe if necessary for tight bolts. The nuts are held in place by the axle flanges themselves so no extra tools are required. The washers installed for both sides actually have holes for two bolts each; thus there are three shaped washers per six bolt set on each flange. There are four total flanges to disassemble for both axles.


Pic 1 shows applying PB Blaster as desired to loosen the threads. Pic 2 shows the tools I used. Pic 3 shows the screwdriver inserted into the rotor through the caliper opening to provide counter-force to the hex-driver. Pic 4 shows me using the hex driver to loosten. Pic 5 shows another view with both tools utilized. Pic 6 shows an axle flange removed from the differential flange. Pic 7 shows the greasy mess that comes with the assembly. Pic 8 shows the removed components placed on an old cookie sheet for keeping track of all the stuff.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: The axle flange on the driver's side next to the differential includes extra washers to limit the closeness of the bolt ends to studs present in the differential flange on that side. Pic 9 shows the extra washers present. Pic 10 shows the same from a distance. Pic 11 shows the proximity of the axle bolts to the differential studs on the driver's side. BE CAREFUL TO KEEP TRACK OF THESE ESSENTIAL EXTRA WASHERS!
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NOTE: again, the removal and reconditioning of the axles is optional for rebuilding the suspension.

To clean an axle and prepare it for boot replacement, first, cut the boot clamps. Then cut through the boots so as to be able to remove them. Then, using a BUNCH OF PAPER TOWELS, as needed, wipe out as much of the grease from the axle joint assemblies. Then clean thouroughly with brake cleaner.

Pic 1 shows the grease mess to deal with; wipe first if desired before removing the boots. Pic 2 shows me cutting a larger boot clamp from a boot, Pic 3 a smaller clamp. Pic 4 shows me cutting a boot off. Pic 5 shows the boot fully cut through. Pic 6 shows the grease mess inside the axle bearing from the boot side. Pic 7 shows me using brake cleaner (with the little red straw of course) to clean out a bearing assembly. Pic 8 shows a clean axle assembly ready for new grease and boots. This axle is on the passenger side (no extra washers).
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NOTE: again, the removal and reconditioning of the axles is optional for rebuilding the suspension.

VERY IMPORTANT: (I hope you figured this one out) is to obtain replacement boots. These are available in kit form, where each boot kit is supplied with a new boot, a new c-clip, a tube/bag of replacement lubricant and two clamps, one large and one small. I ordered a set of competitively-priced Porsche 911 ones recommended by FChat members. The prices on Ferrari boot kits have come down a little bit and are available at the retailers sites and on ebay.


This is the point where I stopped taking pictures...OOOPS!

So, as an honorary tribute, I will refer you to the thread that guided me (by David Jones in Little Rock); this is the best write-up on this topic:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78188&highlight=cv+replacement

At this point, it is time to place the half-axle assembly in a vise and remove one of the constant-velocity (CV) joints. This is done by removing a c-clip (use snap ring pliers if available). I found that removing a clip was easy. However, removing the CV joint may or may not be easy. One of my removals was a slide off, the other required using a 3-jaw puller. Note that the CV joint is splined to the shaft.

After removing one of the CV joints, insert the replacement boots onto the shaft in their proper position. Then reinstall the CV joint (replace c-clip available from the new boot kit).
To install the CV joint on mine required some light tapping with a 5lb hammer (tap on the inner race only!). Also, it is a good idea to replace the c-clip on each CV joint, whether or not it is removed.

Fully-installing the boots is done one at a time. It is necessary to first grease the CV joint using all the grease in one tube from the kit completely. Some members have used aftermarket grease (generally Red Line brand) not provided in 'calibrated volumes' and used a bearing packer to load the grease into each joint. This is certainly acceptable. After lubing, place the boot onto the CV flange and clamp the boot into place with both the large and small clamps. It's a good idea to cover the open lubed area with plastic bag material during clamping and for storage until axle installation. Clamping the boots into place can be a challenge since there are a few varieties of banded clamps, thus requiring different tools to tighten them. Pic 1 and Pic 2 shows two tools I had available, a Band-It type tool (Pic 1) and a crimper jaw tool (Pic 2: both purchased at Napa). The clamps I used required the crimper jaw tool and one of the smaller installed clamps can be seen in Pic 3. You can also see that I duct-taped plastic onto the uninstalled axle end. Below are links to some helpful You-Tube videos to assisst you with boot installation.

These show how to use a Band-It type tool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQUTbcv6dqU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZoa1hTM74U


This video shows the clamp type I received. I would rocommend getting the actual crimping tool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sJVRvdM6CM
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NOTE: again, the removal and reconditioning of the axles is optional for rebuilding the suspension.

NOTE: if you are refurbishing the suspension, it's a good idea to reinstall the axle shafts at the same time when assembling the reconditioned suspension. Otherwise, you might just get grease and other undesired stuff in the way. If you will be storing the completed axles, cover the freshly greased CV joints with plastic.

This part is easy: just bolt them back into place, six bolts per CV joint.

It's not really that easy, because you will have to be creative when torquing. As an example, Pic 1 shows my successful effort at torquing one of the series of hex bolts: basically, I placed a piece of wood next to the rear fire wall (at the trunk area), installed the torque wrench, and rotated the caliper to apply torque until the torque wrench clicked.

Another note: there is a concern whether or not it matters which way you reinstall the axles. Well, when I removed mine, I noted the position. On my car, the axle side with the three ridges was installed closest to the differential. Pic 2 shows the three ridges. Pic 3 the installed axle showing the three ridges nearest the differential (pic taken before cleaning). It's generally good practice to install the CV joint in the same flange from where it's been removed. If you were replacing CV joints, since both sides are the same, I dont believe it would matter.

Axles done, now for the rear suspension...
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All, sorry for the delay in finishing this post...it's not on the front burner (family, job, business travel, other restorations, etc.). It's quite straight forward and presented here for completeness as associated with RobzWorz #5a.

It is expected that the car is on jack stands or a lift and the wheels removed.

At this stage, it is necessary to remove thr brake caliper (2 bolts) and the rotor. With regard to the caliper, keep track of the washers that will inevitably fall onto the floor. It is a good idea to use superglue (cyanoacrylate, or CA, for short) to adhere the washer sets in place on the caliper body after caliper removal and cleaning. My vehicle had identical washer sets on each bolt, so the total thickness was the same. Re-installation can be challenging if these washers are not adhered to the caliper body.

Removing the rotor was an event: I tried several tools, from a three-jaw puller to a 5lb hammer with duct tape applied to minimize metal-to-metal contact. The best tool for this was the hammer alone. It is recommended to use techniques to gradually increase the applied force to remove the rotor. Some of my rotors came off with nothing but a mild pull. Use PB Blaster applied several times over a couple of days, if possible. Be sure to remove the small wheel positioning bolts on the outside of the rotor first.

Since I was installing new Goodrich SS brake lines, I simply cut my old lines and fully-removed the caliper and set it out of the way. If you are keeping the caliper hydraulically installed, just place it out of the way of any of your suspension removal efforts. Some mechs use an old clothes hanger to keep the caliper held away from the work and without stressing the brake line.

Pic 1 shows removal of the wheel positioner/rotor retainer bolts. Pic 2 shows one of my efforts at dislocating the rotor with a 5lb hammer and a block of wood; I had to use the hammer (with duct tape applied to prevent metal-to-metal contact) by itself to free this rotor. Pic 3 shows my cutting the old brake line. Pic 4 shows one of the bolt areas for retaining the caliper.

BTW, it is a good idea to clean/repair the caliper itself at this junction. My calipers were operating fine, but were dirty, so I merely cleaned them and applied caliper grease to the sliding areas and onto the caliper piston boots for protection. If you need to repair/rebuild the calipers, seek another thread (any members knowing of a thread link for pre-ABS 328 caliper rebuilding, please post here for the cenvenience of the reader).
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To do this, it is necessary to remove the air cleaner as an assembly on the passenger side (to gain access to the upper shock bolt there) and remove the mounting bolts/nuts for the radiator expansion tank on the driver's side (it is NOT necessary to fully remove the tank/hose/components, just remove bolts and move the tank away from the upper driver's side shock bolt; it's best to leave the radiator cap on and left alone for this...no coolant leakage here).

When removing the air cleaner, it's a good idea to place plastic or something over the air intake of the air sensor/fuel distributer assembly to prevent particles from entering the intake.

Remove the upper bolt(s) on the associated shock absorber. This should be easy since the shock is not in a stressed state when not loaded by the car's weight. Then remove the lower bolts and the shock(s) as an assembly.

Pic 1 shows the removed air cleaner on the passenger side. Pic 2 shows that I covered the intake. Pic 3 shows the wrenches used to remove the upper bolt/nut on the shock. Pic 4 shows the wheel well view of the driver's side upper shock bolt. Pic 5 shows the bolt removal from the expansion tank. Pic 6 shows a close up of one of the retaining bolts with tube and washers. Pic 7 shows the coolant temerature senseor and the rear fire wall mount assembly (only remove the mount assembly, not the sensor). Pic 8 shows the wrenches used to remove the upper bolt on the driver's side shock assembly. Pic 9 shows the removal of a lower shock bolt.
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Sorry folks, but the last pic (Pic 9) on the last post was incorrect. It's actually the first pic for this post. So, hopefully, you figured it out that the shock bolt was behind that one .


REMOVE THE SWAY BAR ASSEMBLY FIRST; it's easy to do, Also, if you are not removing the sway bar, it's recommended to unbolt both sides at once, loosten the chassis bolts, and rotate the bar out of the way (this will take effort to do since the bar is stress-installed onto the lower A-arms...wear gloves and don't cut yourself; or, you can be safe and remove the whole damn sway bar).

Note, IT'S NOT NECESSARY TO DISASSEMBLE THE HAND BRAKE MECHANISM. I was refurbishing mine at the time (it's posted in RobzWorkz #4). If, like myself, you have removed the axles, then be watchful to avoid cinching the hand brake cable.

To REMOVE AN A-ARM (assuming the shock absorber was removed), just un-bolt everything and keep track of all the parts. It's really that simple. You are just going to get messy and probably a little frustrated if everything doesn't come apart as easily as you thought. The biggest advice here is to REMOVE THE BOLT TO THE HUB CARRIER FIRST.

There are a couple of notes here: 1) for my car, the lower rear A-arm bolt going through the lower rear fork was installed so that it could not be removed directly; I had to first remove the forward bolt, loosten the rear fork, rotate the A-arm so that the bolt had room to be removed, and then remove the bolt (BTW, can't rotate an A-arm if the hub carrier bolt and the sway bar is still attached, hint, hint); 2) did I mention removing the sway bar 3) when removing the hub carrier bolts, keep track of the all parts; NOTE THAT THE WASHER ASSEMBLIES IN THE HUB CARRIER BOLTS INCLUDE AN ALIGNMENT PIN (REVIEW THE ASSEMBLY DIAGRAMS); the pins in mine were fused so I didn't have to worry.

Pic 1 shows shows removing a hub carrier bolt (actually this was a re-installation pic; not the cleaned hub carrier...looks the same though...double oops!). Pic 2 shows me using a "breaker-pipe" to loosten one of the bolts. Pic 3 are the first items removed from the hub carrier bolt removal (washer and rubber bushing). Pic 4 shows a large rubber bushing and the inner washers removed (note the pin hole in one of them). Pic 5 shows a set of cleaned-up parts arranged in the hub carrier bolt (they don't stay that way; just keep the parts together until reassembly). Pic 6 shows the fully-removed upper hub carrier parts (note the alignment pin). Pic 7 shows the fully-removed lower hub carrier parts (note alignment pin). Pic 8 shows removal of of an A-arm mount bolt. Pic 9 shows my set of removed A-arms together (I placed tape over the alignment pins to keep them from falling out).
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Yeah, I know, it seems truncated, but all the remaining steps are sufficiently described in RobzWorkz #5a. The steps include the following:

1. refurbish the A-arms and other components; this includes installing new bushings (with welding or the Birdman fix) and replacing any new parts (I purchased new A-arm bushings from Maserati Source and new rubber and plastic parts for the sway bar from Superformance); I also cleaned all parts in the system, including the hub carrier, the caliper and anything else; since the bushings, washers and rubber parts for the A-arm-to-hub carrier bolts were in good shape, I didn't have to replace...just clean (replacements are at Superformance as well);

2. install the A-arms to the chassis; install the bolts at the lower forks so that they can be removed without loostening the forks; do not fully-torque...just attach;

3. install the A-arms at the hub carrier; keep track of all the parts and put them in proper order; be sure to align the pins with the holes in the washers; also, be sure to lube the parts with caliper grease to minimize corrosion; do not fully-torque...just attach;

4. if you removed hand brake components, now is the time to install them;

5. install the sway bar components; put all parts together loose; when torqued later, they will apply pressure to the rubber bushings and will apply stress into the system; do not fully-torque...just attach;

6. install the shock absorbers; also, re-attach the air intake components and the expansion tank components; do not fully-torque...just attach;

7. install the brake rotors and calipers; do not fully-torque...just attach;

8. now, torque everything; I go from the chassis outward (just my preference); be sure to use a checklist on the diagrams;

9. torque everything again, using the check list;

10. if the axles are still removed, install them; recall that the axle nuts have stops on the axle flanges, so all you will need is the hex driver; torque them 2X.


After this, depending on the other tasks you are working, you can reinstall the wheels, lower the car and test drive. Be safe!


The pics below show completed stuff.

Enjoy FChat!

Rob H.
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ALL,
I neglected to include the full information on the orange box in post #1. For the non-helicoil larger bolt, use 72 ft-lb.

Please be sure to review the WSM before fully trusting posts after-the fact.
Rob
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These are all available here:

Suspension Parts for Ferrari 328 - Superformance

Axle boots here:

Driveshaft Parts for Ferrari 328 - Superformance

 

Go to Ricambi to view the diagrams for your car; part #'s should be there.