When I had my 87 328, the drivers door made a popping sound from the door stay or door stop as its sometimes called. I pulled off the inside panel and there was a small round plug in there, but not big enough to get the stay out of? The hole was about 3 inches in diameter. My QV does NOT have this issue, and the 328 was wrecked by someone before I ever got a chance to address this. So my question is: How do you replace the door stay / door stop? Does the door have to come off, or is it supposed to fit though that hole from the back side? Thanks.
I am a little confused, which isn't hard to believe. What reference number are you talking about in this diagram? http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=2437
Maybe part #44? Funny, I had a couple of hours of play time today and thought about putting these parts back in my car .... after a few minutes I decided I didn't want to pull a wheel so opted for a couple of drives with a wash in between , but your post has reminded me that I don't think pulling the wheel and inner fender cover is necessary because as you mentioned the part won't fit thru the opening with the rubber plug anyway ... So when I was looking at my box of goodies, I noticed the the flat metal rod that is pinned to the door was popped out of the assemblies. I was thinking "Why is that out, was I trying to fix something". I looked at the door jam area and faintly remembered R&R'g them from the passenger compartment side, and then your post connected the dots. I think I pulled the flat metal bars out and then the rest of the assembly can be put in thru the door jam, but I think you have to fish it up from the bottom with a magnet. I might give it a try tomorrow now I don't have to pull the wheel, but I had just popped the metal bar back into the roller assembly when I was contemplating putting them back in. I also have a brand new one shrink wrapped on Ferrari cardboard and it is assembled ... would be conter-intuitive to take it apart but I can't imagine someone pulls the door to replace them? ... yikes! Be curious how others have tackled this ... I had the loud "pop" also on one side. cheers
[60921100 DOOR CHECK] $0.00 each #44 is the rod that connects to the assembly with the looped springs. The picture in the manual is backwards from the 3 cars i have seen. The studs go thru the inside of the door jamb, and the rod end goes to the door. Part was $300+ last time I checked with a supplier. used ones can be had cheaper. You can see the back of the assembly when looking thru the hole with the panel removed in the front wheel wells. the hole is too small to fit the door check assembly thru, so does the door have to come off to change it? I can take a pic or two from my QV, not that it needs it. But I was perplexed on my now gone 328 as to how you do this without removing the whole door and disconnecting the wires.
The brand new part I have is the spring assembly and it comes with the rod. It wasn't $300 but at that price I definitely will fix one of the busted ones I have. All of my explanation still applies, at least to a 308. On the 328 maybe something is different. On the 308 if you don't want to pull the door you can pop the rod out of the assembly, and then remove the rest of the spring assembly thru the door jam. I think you have to pull it out the bottom of the jam though or something like that. I'm not sure how easy it will be to get back in but as I posted above it's a project I'm right on the brink of tackling ... maybe today. cheers
Well I tried but no luck yet. I removed the rod when the assembly is on the bench. Then I can get the one piece in but I can't get the rod in afterwards. It could've been partially due to where I had the piece mounted in the jam (too far to one side or the other) so it may not of been letting the rollers open up enough to let the piece go all the way in but I'd had enough for today. There is a lot of spring load on that part ... easy to get apart and back together in a vise but not so easy in the door jamb. I have a "door jack" from a body shop so it's not that hard to unbolt the door ... just a shame to loose the alignment for such a basic part. I was thinking I could just make a wedge to open up the rollers when the one piece is in there if they will spread open far enough. cheers
When I looked in the hole with the rubber plug removed, you have to have the door almost closed to even try to fit it thru the hole. Take off the two 8mm nuts and see that the spring footprint is larger than the hole. I think the door has to come off, or that you have to cut the sheetmetal in the wheel well to get it thru the hole. I never got a chance to fix it on my 328.
Careaper ... yes what you're saying is correct, but if you can remove the bar from the assembly you can manuever the remaining piece out. I'm going to have another go. I think I had the bracket all the way over to one side which was stopping the rollers from spreading to get the above bar I'm talking about back in there. I think I can make a pretty simple wedge that will open the rollers and then allow the bar to be inserted ... we'll see ... I'll post what I come up with. First I'll figure out how I can get it back together in the door jamb ... then I'll figure out how to take it back out . cheers
Well .. couldn't get it done without pulling the door, and the adjustment of that piece seems like a PITA. It seems like the roller hits the inside of the door jam in one position and if it's slid out where it clears the inner jam the lip of the door will catch it at full open. I might wittle up my own hard stop since that's all I need. What is the reason for the detents and rollers ... for feel or something?
Doh! ... The above is only a problem if you install the piece upside down . Still have to pull the door to R&R the piece but she works beautiful now! No more binding and popping and no clearance issues at all! cheers!
Hey and just in case yours are upside down due to PO or something, you can flip 'em over without removing the door and that might fix the popping/binding issue. Mine were like this when I first bought the car back in '95. It was the first problem I noticed with the car. I could see how the stops were slightly bending the tip at the front of the channel that's in the middle of the door and had the popping sound during opening and closing. Because it was the first thing I noticed it gave me an uncomfortable feeling about the overall fit and finish of Ferrari's. None of the pros that worked on my car at the time blurted out "the door stops are on backwards". In fact I was kinda led to believe it is a very precision part and it was done that way so that it would be obvious when someone had messed with the door ... Bull sheeeet! When I was messing with it over the last couple of days all of these memories came back. Nothing I had ran in to since then had got me thinking "How did Ferrari get this part so wrong?". The memories that came back from all these years ago were, "Wow, what a POS these cars must be if the door stop ends up bending the door ". Nice to be over that . It is really counter intuitive the way the part goes in also. The "long side" of the bracket goes out making it look like it will create more of an inteference problem, but installed that way it prevents the door from opening as much. Flipped over incorrectly it looks like it will have more clearance but the mechanism lets the door swing out further. Just sharing 'cause I burned a lot of brain cells figuring it all out. Door was on/off about 5 times. So thankful I have a proper door jack for that kind of stuff. cheers!
After all the analysis I had to rehab the passenger side piece vs. using the new one I had in stock. The dirt/overspray/rattle can/dry grease really makes a nice perservative. The stripped part looks pretty good I think. I had to make up a new roller ... savings $300? ... I don't know ... didn't check pricing. I just find it very rewarding using something that I had thought not useable some years ago . cheers Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is the best article so far on the famous 308 door stop! But still, I don't know HTF you get it out!!! Also, looking through the hole in the fender, I can see that the "spool" has come loose from the S spring and is sitting cockeyed. This causes the door strap to make two, cheap sounding, snaps as the door opens or closes. Is it possible to realign that roller using long needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver and avoid the entire removal, repair or replace routine? Quasi begs to know, please!
It sits inside the door... part 44 https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Ferrari/308/308_Quattrovalvole_(1985)/PartDiagrams/107/Doors?ref=044
Sorry, it sits inside the rear of the front fender. The door only has a clevis pin connecting it to the arm that comes out of the hole in the back of the fender. Take a look. This is an 84 GTS 308 Euro.
Here, for those that might be able to help: Two photos of the 308 diver-side doorstop. The wide shot shows that it IS behind the rear wall of the front left fender. The tighter shot shows that the "roller" is knocked off its N/S polar orientation. I'm wondering if anyone has succeeded in getting this back into place with, say, a screwdriver, so as not to necessitate a take-apart. Failing that, I have not found a single note in FChat, describing how to get this assembly OUT of the car and replacing it - EXCEPT perhaps, cutting a hole in the rear of the wheel well, and then fitting a rubber grommet, or patching the hole with sheet metal and gobs of (what?) tar?!!? That fender liner is screwed in an tarred all over - not an easy job to remove ala Ferrari's assembly line install. Thanks to all for bearing this admittedly annoying thread. It's not common to find an old 308 topic that hasn't been completely documented here. I really appreciate any comments at all. No rush. I've stepped off the sell/trade-in merry-go-round for a few weeks at least. My magazine editor is patient to see how I handle the various scamsters I have encountered on the "sell" side of this "25 Years After" journey, not the least of which was a Works dealership that walked me down a road to Hades that would have made Orpheus turn to stone. Quasimotor Contributing Editor: FORZA
There is a panel inside the front wheelwell to access the hoses that run down the door sill. Maybe you can access the opener through this opening?
Did not see it on the rear wall of the wheel well, but I'll have a look higher up (?) where the door sill might be.
George I had 2 85 QVs. Each has a bad door stop strap. I was able to get a pair from Red Bay in Belgium. They are interchangeable L & R. I did one with the door partially off, ended up with scratches on paintoutside of fender. One of the door hinges pin froze from rust, we couldn't take the door off. We ended up had to tilt the door down and got strap out. I had to call my buddy to come over to help. The second QV was easy, did by myself. I entered through the wheel well and the round rubber bulb. Pictures below will show everything. I m a dentist, it was just routine surgery. Good luck! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow great discussion! I have to caution folks all the time there s a lot of stress on some aging and hard to find components. Don't slam the door! This isn't a Camaro!! My memory is fading, but I think that part was upgraded, when the 328 door was redsigned in appearance and latch handle location.
Both the video (horrendous choice to take off the door!) of the Brit and Blue 328 and the "hole in the wheel well" tell the story. I'll opt for the hole (no gasket already there, so I can choose one to fit me 'ole. Second important question for all = = = judging from my photo, showing the cockeyed roller, does it seem possible to re-set that roller with a screwdriver while the door is simply open and perhaps the door's clevis pin taken out? Worth a try? What'dya say? Quazi questin'
