Something that has always been a big question for me regarding exhaust headers, is if anyone considers the radius of the bends when calculating length. In any other medium, a bend in a pipe is considered to be equal to a different length of straight pipe. For example, in an direct vent HVAC system that uses PVC pipe to exhaust outside, one 90 degree elbow is the equivelent of something like 7 feet of pipe. In a system that only allows you to use 60 feet of pipe to reach outside, for example, two or three elbows can really shorten up your length. To explain this in more detail, the system can only produce enough air flow to push out through 60 feet of straight pipe. Any longer and you could have problems. An elbow creates a disturbing restriction to that flow, and conversly is the equivalent of a much longer section of pipe. In other words, when you look at an exhaust header, some primary tumes have barely any turns, yet others are all twisted and turned. If they simply were to start with equal length sections of straight pipe, and not consider the bends, in reality they would no longer be equal length once assembled. I suppose to be truly accurate the header would need to be flowed on a flow bench, and the individual tubes tested to achieve equal pressures?
Depending on how serious you want to get with this project.... http://www.spectrum5racing.com/ http://www.spectrum5racing.com/Technical/s5headerRevA.pdf
There is a big difference between HVAC ducting and exhaust headers. One of the major differences is that HVAC flow is considered to be incompressible flow and header flow is compressible flow. The tuned length of the header is determined based on the pressure wave dynamics, not for mass flow considerations. The length is based upon the time necessary for the pressure wave generated when the exhaust valve opens to travel to the end of the primary tube, reflect back as a negative "suction" wave and return to the exhaust valve before it closes during the overlap period. This "suction" wave is what aids in filling the cylinder with intake charge. The time is based upon the length of the primary tube, regardless of bends since it is pressure wave, not mass flow that is traveling down the tube. The number of bends and the tightness of the bends will affect mass flow, and should be considered when designing a header. However, the pressure differential in a header is much greater than in an HVAC system, so the losses due to the bends are less critical than in an HVAC duct system. In a perfect world, we'd like to have equal length straight tubes, but this is highly unlikely in an automotive application with a collected exhaust. Some header design rules of thumb are: 1. Use as large a bend radius as possible, bend radiuses no tighter than about 2 x tube OD, 2. Do not cheat bends when joining tubes, 3. Avoid "S" bends as much as possible.
So, from my reading, if I place an increased diameter pipe after the header collector, the header will then see that as an 'open header' and reflect the scavenging wave; so what is downstream doesn't matter as much for wave propagation and HP but rather for sound as long as adequate CFM is available? If so, there are relatively quiet low toned 14" Superturbos (and many louder mufflers) with very high CFM ratings that are short enough that I could run straight out the back on each side, theoretically with no hp loss and a lot less plumbing. Just an idea. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
i like the idea above the best. Stright out to exhaust and no bending pipes. If you get something like that going i'd be willing to buy a set.
In general you are right. Most of the tuning occurs in the header. There is secondary tuning happening after the collector, but in a well designed header with the expansion as you describe, it will add little as long as it flows properly. The issue I see with your last proposal is that you may not get enough sound attenuation using the short mufflers. Mufflers of large volumes more efficiently reduce sound w/o sacrificing performance. Your system should perform well (assuming they flow well), but may not be quiet - but only you (and the local constable) can judge that.
I am also considering changing my exhaust on my 328 to a Euro type, but I'm concerned about what to do with the O2 sensor? Will the O2 reading be different if I probe only one exhaust header as opposed to the two it currently probes as both headers go into the single cat?
I think the latest is your best if ti will fit, but I wouldn't add bends trying to make them equal length....and I don't see where the turbo fits?
Obviously not equal lengths, but on a transverse engine I don't know how you could get equal lengths?? You could probably get equal volume by using a larger diameter on the short run. Just my home brew and I've been happy with this past summer. Image Unavailable, Please Login
On a clear night with no wind you might be able to...=) Cavallo Nero (I think) post #29 sent me an audio clip of his car when I was looking into doing mine. Basically the same canisters but in different orrientation. He might still have his. BTW, how would you post an audio clip??
If you look at the manage attachments button when you reply, you can see that it accepts sound and small video files. Get that digital camera out there and record!!
Hello Russ, I have a Euro 77 308GTB with two straight-through oval stainlees steel Magnaflow mufflers in your type A configuration but without resonator tips and I think it sounds really good. It has two single outlets with Magnaflow non resonator wide mouth stainless tips. All the connecting tubing ( 2" inlet and 2-1/4" outlet) is also stainless. I had my stock headers and right intermediary pipe JetHot coated after the pipe was modified with a flange to mate with one of the new mufflers. Wil
Wil Thanks. Would love to see a picture (and a sound clip!) if you get the opportunity - it sounds like your usual terrific fabrication/installation and would love to see the fitting details. So much of this installation is dictated by space availability! For the silly question of the day - does anyone know if it is possible or value added to Jet-Hot ceramic coat the muffler?
mike - I believe it will work fine off of one side as long as the injectors are all ok on both sides.
Agreed but if you're unsure, have the injection system cleaned with a MotorVac machine to make sure all the injectors are doing the same thing. The MotorVac (Snap-on's brand name, there should be others) pumps fuel, mixed with powerfull cleaners, through your injection system from it's own reservoir and cleans gum and carbon out of the injectors and other fuel system parts. It also cleans valves and combustion chambers. There is usually a noticeable difference in running quality after the proceedure which should cost no more than a few hundred dollars. We usually see a increase in engine vacuum and RPM.
I had this done to a 91 Mazda 626 6cyl at 80,000 miles at the recommendation of my (ex) mechanic. I didn't notice any performance increase or decrease, but I went from a car that burned no oil in 6,000 miles to one that burned a quart every 500 miles. Clearly I wasn't happy.
Clyde, Sorry you had a problem after your MotorVac service. We've been using our machine for a long time with good results. Maybe it unmasked another mechanical proiblem and maybe it was just a coincidence. Not that you are doing the following but every mechanic has a story or two to tell of a customer saying something like this: "Ever since you balanced my wheels my windshield wipers don't work." Maybe your ex machanic screwed up you engine in some other way and maybe he's innocent. Anyway, I don't own stock in MotorVac or Snap-on (although I should own part of the company by now with the money I've spent there) I was just just advising that if you're worried about the exhaust gasses being equal side to side with only one 02 sensor that cleaning the injectors is a good idea. We also have a hand pump for cleaning CIS injectors one at a time,out of the car, and you can actually observe the spray pattern improving as you pump the solvent through but in that case only the injectors are being cleaned. A container of injection cleaner in the tank can't hurt either. It just doesn't do as thorough of a job. I look forward to seeing you at the Fall Run tomorrow. I think ,at least, that I saw you were planning to attend. Alright, no more F-chat for a while. Got to get my car ready! Sorry to pull this thread off topic. Wil
Russ, Here's what I've been running on my '78. A bit loud, but not too bad. Kind of like that cats and tips photo of yours but no crossover pipe. Henry Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looking at prototyping two possibilities. Remember the car is primarily on the street, so a mellow low tone with a true dual system is the requirement - tolerable on long trips or to the Opera as well as spirited dashes. The expansion piece at the end of each header is there to start the propagation wave back for scavaging according to the articles. Beyond that it is a matter of CFM and tone selection. Type I mod 1 has a small place for a resonator (or cat) to act in concert with the main muffler for dual resonance dampening, while the larger volume main body softens the sound. The final resonated tips smooth out the sound. The two cons I see are practicality - it's a lot of plumbing and a possible a bit heavy. The sound and performance ought to be pretty good. Type J mod 1 uses two dynomax high CFM superturbos following the expansion joint to muffle the sound, with the 3" resonated tips. Not sure if it will give enough sound dampening, but should be light and flow well. If fitment becomes a problem Type A becomes the default unless I can find suitable silencers for a Type B The headers and connector pipes will be ceramic coated titanium or off-white inside and out and be exhaust port matched. Will call Jet-Hot about coating the mufflers. All comments and advice welcome Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Russ, I think you have the right idea in your post above. It's still not clear to me what constitutes a resonator, optimized for sending a return, low pressure wave up the collector, et al. True, a resonator is a local increase in flow volume, but how much volume? Is a flow area increase of say 2:1 or 3:1 sufficient? How long does the resonator cavity have to be? The 2-stage muffler plus resonator tips you sketch out should provide adaquate opportunity to craft an acceptable exhaust sound while the header, plus down stream collector resonator, should handle the performance issue. Have you looked at the actual collector lengths after fitment of the wave reflection resonators? How does the packaging work out? The obvious placement of these devices is in the volume previously occupied by the OEM cats. If the resonators are sited there, what do the collector lengths look like? Are these lengths consistant with Vizard's recommendations? Thanks for you continued interest in persuing this matter. Bill
Using the Jegs catalog, here are the separate part numbers and specifications for the type I, mod 1: resonator = Dynatech Split-Flow Race Muffler 329-76-006302 3.0'' Dia. Inlet/Outlet Muffler; 6'' Long x 5'' Diameter; ($87.99) Will be sleeved down to match the 2.5 " collector exit, with the larger flow area used to send the scavenging wave back. Will also act as a dual resonance system with the silencer silencer= Magnaflow offset stainless steel 642-14263 offset 18" long side/side 5'' x 8'' Oval Muffler 2.5' inlet/outlet ($105.99) tips: Hooker 520-21431 resonated tips 2.5 in dual 3" out ($41.99) Total parts $471.94 Note that this is an open system - i.e. you can roll a golf ball in one end and out the other. pictures below, resonator, mufflers, tips Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here are the type J mod1 part numbers, whiuch are really variations on the previous type K: While there are MANY possibilities, here are the two: Quieter version: Dynomax Superturbo freeflow 289-17733 In/Out: 2-1/2'' Body Length: 14'' Muffler Size: 4-1/4'' x 9-3/4'' $39.99 Louder version: Magnaflow stainless steel 642-14236 5'' x 8'' Oval Muffler In/Out: 2-1/2'' Body Length: 14'' This differs from the mod 1 as it is STRAIGHT through without any turns in the muffler tips: Hooker 520-21431 resonated tips 2.5 in dual 3" out ($41.99) As with all of these, it passes the golf ball test, and the parts total before installation is around $160. Wow. Type K schematic shown below Image Unavailable, Please Login