Burning them out sounds ugly, but it isn't that bad. I used a torch to get them hot and a screwdriver to apply pressure over a bucket of water to catch the gooey plug. Smells nasty for a little bit, but not that bad. I then immediately ran a rag through the hole to clean the hole. Worked really well and wasn't nearly as messy as I feared. I have many gratuitous pictures. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Took Jims advice and burnt those bushings out. I just finished. What a pain. Even when i put the torch on them they took alot of time and effort to get them out. I thought i had read a post that after you burn them they just come out easy. The good news is i used the 12 ton press to press out the silent bloc bushings on the end links without any problems. Yes Dominic, i should stick with Pizza making. I got to go get some sleep. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sorry to hear it was a PITA! I think that the key for me was to heat them from the center out to the ends, then push them out with a large flat blade screwdriver followed by a rag to clean out the mess. Replacing the bushings is a BREEZE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JIM
Yo Pizzaman, the ES bushings should come with lube. If you find a socket just a tiny bit smaller than the ID of the bushing, the rubber will push out in your press easily. Just got to cut it flush with the sawzall so the socket starts straight. Birdman
Hey, I didn't get any lube either! I used a little Red Line CV grease because that's what was handy and I figured it would be up to the job. But really there is no space for grease anyway, I think it all got wiped off on assembely.
Huh. My bushings all came with lube. Where did you order them from? It is a really really sticky whiteish goo. You have a picture of it here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=138200502&postcount=31 I'd call the guy who sold you the bushings and complain! Birdman
No, not those man. I got the lube with that package. I'm talking about the A-arm bushings. You know, the ones i cut out with the sawzall.
I just noticed yesterday that the drop links still had a oring that i didn't remove from last time. So i removed them and installed the new ones. Not to bad taking them out and installing the new ones. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Excellent!!! It's a wierd feeling once the bushing gets started. It just slides right in with the press. JIM
Well, after having no electricity for a week, snow and then my plow truck breaking down I squeezed a few hours today and did a little suspension work. I took that bent "U" bracket out. It looks solid but I got to try and see if I can straighten it out a little. I also have to touch base with local Fchatter "Mr. Nice Guy" and see if he has a extra bolt that I had hacked off. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks nice Chris! Warning: serious hair splitting content ahead: When I took mine apart, I noticed that the bolts had been put in rather haphazardly - some were sticking in front to back, others back to front. Being a veteran of building two aircraft, I have been conditioned to ALWAYS put bolts in front to back and top to bottom. The reasoning being that if ever the nut were to come off, this orientation would give the best chance of the bolts still remaining in place without the nut. Even though this makes more sense with an airplane (which is thoroughly checked before each flight) than with a car, I was planning to carry this practice along to my Dino regardless. Unless anyone could tell me why I shouldn't? (and Chris, I noticed some back-to-front bolts on yours )
Hi Hans, Yes i did notice that. I was going to comment on it, but forgot. The 2 left ones, upper and lower, i understand why. They would hit the frame. But the right side ones, upper and lower, you could put them the opposite way. I guess you could do the same on the front 2, the ones that attach to the brakes. But it's a good question. Do we do it the "right" way or the Ferrari way??
Chris, Here's something to consider: Despite which way Ferrari may have put the bolts in, you want to be able to torque the fasteners (to specs.) once the suspension is re-installed and loaded. More accurate torque figures can always be acheived if you can get the torque wrench on the nut, versus the bolt head. You might want to take this into consideration.... Best, David
I hear you David. Thank you. Now if i can only find out what the torque specs are on the A-arms. (hint hint)
Hint..hint, eh? I've got all the data here. Just let me know the application and bolt diameter/thread pitch, just to verify the WSM info. No problem at all. David
One point of consideration that will make Pizzaman's life easier... Only the stock bushings require that the suspension be torqued with the suspension loaded because the rubber is bonded to the shell of the bushing and you don't want the rubber part of the bushing in torsion when the car is sitting on the ground. However, the ES polyurethane bushings are not internally bonded and don't have this issue. They can be torqued with the car on the lift and the suspension hanging. Birdman