308 Blown head gasket?

Please tell us more about what you mean by your engine not rurning over.

ie: does the starter spin the engine & it not try to catch & run, or does it refuse to even spin.

If it's refusing to spin, remove the spark plugs & see if that lets it spin. If it spins & blows coolant out a sparkplug hole, then you probably do have a blown head gasket & got enough coolant into a cylinder to hydraulic lock it.

 

4returbo, Listen to Verell. DON't turn the motor over until you pull the plugs. If their is water in the cylinders you could bend a rod by trying to turn it over..

 

Dont jump in and wip the heads off without getting the cylinders pressure tested,this involves applying compressed air to each cyclinder in turn firing(tdc)and fill the expansion tank straight up,now this test will show coolant coming across the gasket,it wont show an oil coolant mix,sorry forgot to mention when you removed the plugs does it turn over with a socket on the crank pulley if no-sit down and have a cuppa and say OH S##T,take a look in the cylinders with a pencil torch,enderscope are the bis but not everyone has one,if its seized then face it the engine has to come out,if it turns it still
'maybe' or maybe not damaged,have a good look at the water pump and hoses for leaks find these and sort them,when you fitted on the new turbo did you turn it over and check the was a good flow of oil though with the DRAIN pipe off,this give a good indication of a healthy oil feed to the turbo,
its a process of just doing all the simple checks before you bin the engine,and that can be expensive as we all know,good luck with it and let us all know how you get on,

cheers
Dale.

 

I'm guessing the buzz you you hear is the fuel pump, may you just never noticed it before.....the smoking started after you you were hard on the throttle, I'm guessing you also let it rev up near redline?? then took you foot completely off the throttle and let it slow down?? so the smoking started when/after the engine was at very high vacuum?? .....;It seem odd to me that antifreeze would be leaking into the cylinder and out on to the ground....are you able to see were the water is coming from?

First things first though, if the engine is not cranking over, do what Verrel says and get the plugs out and have a good look at each one. then see if if turns over, I usually put a wrech on the crank to feel/watch what's happening. If antifreeze is in a cylinder it either the gasket or the head...seems very strange to me though, I don't think I've ever seen one leak that bad that it just shut a running engine down, I would expect the 6 or7 other cylinder to keep running...you said it did crank when it first died...so why did it stall unless the is water in the intake manifold...this isn't a watercooler turbo is it??

 

Rick hope you had a good birhday,not to drunk were you,

cheers
Dale.

ps,let us know how you get on with the car.

 

The only cranking a partial turn & locking up is consistent with hydraulic lock.

The coolant on top of the engine is a strange one. Makes me suspect that a hose has come loose.

Hmm, I'm going to go our on a limb: Let's postulate that you did indeed loose a head gasket. A couple of things might be going on:
a) Coolant was sucked into a cylinder (or more likely an adjacent pair of them), thus creating hydraulic lock on the compression stroke.
b) The engine ran a while with the gasket blown. Each power stroke blew exhaust into the cooling system, thus pressurizing it. Eventually a hose near the top of the engine split or came off.

Of course this is a lot of remote speculation...

 

Can you turn it by hand, with a socket on the crankshaft? Try it with someone holding the clutch in also just to rule out a clutch/transmission problem. Try turning it both ways, although don't turn it too much in the 'backwards' direction.

If it still won't turn, you can start removing accessory belts to rule out a frozen water pump, etc.

 

I'm certainly not the expert that others in this forum are, but turning the crank backwards can mess up the timing belt tension. At this point that may be a moot concern though. I would guess a half-revolution or so backwards won't do anything. Others please correct me if I am wrong.

If the engine won't turn either direction vs only turning forward up until a certain point, then that may indicate a seized piston (or two) vs. a valve impingment problem.

 

Very strange.....

Definately put a socket on it and see if it will turn in either direction, I wouldn't worry about cranking it backwards...I just don't see how it would have seized....

 

The more I think about it, I think you've got a several things going on. I think the smoke was just coolant, probably form a leaking hose, hitting the hot exhaust. A light film of oil on a plug usually means that the cylinder is not getting fuel, you may have a bad fuel pump which is why it was running rough earlier and is the cause of the buzz you hear with the key on. The not cranking may just be a dead battery.

Let us know if it cranks with a socket. You may want to throw a battery charger on it too and see what the needle says.

 

Your car as been sitting over the winter,where in the shop or at your home,
a rebuilt 308 engine is not cheap nor are rebuilt turbos,dosent matter if it was the shop or you,the oil should have been checked,and the coolant,
then run up till cooling fans cut in then change the oil and filter and dissconect oil cooler pipes and flush though,no need to road test it it will get hotter in the shop,taking it up to 6psi boost is a lot more than you think,throw one atmo in there to and were realy starting to warm the plenum charge,i can only go with what weve all already said,put a shocket on the crank pulley,plugs out,in if you want it should still turn ok,if its felling a little nasty take out the plugs-remove aux belts and timing belt covers,have a look around hows it all looking,put you hand on aux pulleys etc and feel for any play,you could have a smoking timing belt due to pulley tensioner aux belt seized pulley,you could have one or two cams part seized,
and the water pump and aux units turn ok,

cheers
Dale.

 

Yes, the passenger side near the bottom. I think the only way you'll reach it is from the bottom. It's a 36mm I think.

 

Only do able from the bottom.
You'll need a 1/2" or 3/4" drive 36mm socket and at least a 18" long breaker bar.

Jack the rear of the car up & put it on jack stands, blocks or use a lift.
Pull the passenger wheel.
Remove the wheel well liner (about 6 or 8 10mm head bolts, then roll it forward & inwards to get it out.

Now you can get at the whole pulley end of the engine.

Turn the engine clockwise looking at the end of the crankshaft.

Make sure you don't have any fingers or your thumb on the side of the breaker bar in the direction of force. You'll be using enough force so that if the socket slips off you'll smash that side of the breaker bar against a suspension a-frame. If there's a thumb in between you'll know why I"m telling you this(don't ask).

 

Actually, I have no problem reaching it from the top.

 

damm carb cars without all the junk on top in the way of everything

 

I would throw the plugs back in and see if it will fire up...it will make you feel a lot better it it will, but you still have problems. You have a charging problem, a coolant leak, and maybe a fuel injection problem. Also, be sure and look at the oil pressure sisnce I don't see that where you found the cause of 2 failed turbos.