Hi all, If I get enough interest I'll get 10 sets of these 7075-T6 cam pulleys made. Options are type 3 anodised (bronze) or red type 2. I might be able to add degree marks to the outer edge of the guide flanges. Price would be $320 per set of four plus post. Send me a pm if interested. If enough people want a set of six pulleys for round-toothed belts, I can get those too. PM me if interested. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mike, I will get more timing holes added to make setting the timing easier but I don't plan to make adjustable pulleys because most people will simply set it once and leave it.
... I'll also try to get some degree marks put onto the outside of the guide flange to help with setting the timing.
Yes, any colour incl. black but if there are several different colours they will be a bit more expensive. Type 3 (bronze) is the hardest but given how well the plastic ones lasted any colour will outlive all of us.
If these will be direct replacement on a stock 1982 308GTSi then I will take a set in bronze. Thank you.
Mark, the samples have pressed on fences which the supplier says they have never had problems with but I can ask for a few countersunk screws too-- shouldn't affect the price too much. I had planned to heat the samples to 90 C and hit the fences with a wooden mallet a few times to see if they budge at all before deciding on the screws but would welcome any suggestions or experience with pressed-on fences.
Derek, I was very happy with the valves that I got from you recently. Please put me down for a set of the bronze. Thanks for supporting your fellow f-car owners. Jeff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Spencer, I only have 3 people interested in the round belts so far-- if you want some that's 4. Yes the round belts will last for more miles but probably not so many more years. Unless someone knows of a belt that doesn't age as fast, I will go with the standard square tooth. Does anyone know if the high saturation HNBR elastomers used in the Gates racing belts age slower?
I sent you a PM Derek. I would be interested in a set of Bronze colored ones. Maybe with the Timing Marks would be great! Thanks!!
Guys, I admit sometimes I am dumber than a box of rocks but I'll ask the 'stupid question.' What good are 'timing marks' on a nonadjustable cam gear/cog? I am timing my 5-8 bank now (1-4 Done) and it is nothing short of a monkey-dance between the belt, the cog and the cam shaft. It is a real PITA. But if you like F-Car BDSM as much as I, you can 'easily' get to +/- 0.5 Crank Degrees. Maybe even +/- 0.25 Crank Degrees. With a good (and large) degree-wheel mounted on the crank, of course.
Same part number for ALL 308s Mondial8 and QV and also 512 BB and BBi. Dereck you should place your offer in the 512 section too.
Hi Derek, Sorry I've been super busy the past couple months...50-60 hour weeks. I'm in for a set...either bronze or red. I still owe you for the valves. Please contact me privately and I can setup payment for the valves or do a package with the pulleys...whatever works for you. Thanks Henry [email protected]
Mark, I think you are mostly right. Having never timed one of these it seemed like the monkey-dance described elsewhere using a spreadsheet and changing both cam holes and pulley holes: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/372697-tricks-adjusting-cam-timing.html ... it might make it easier to have degree marks on the outer edge and a few more holes in the pulley. I was thinking I would put the pulleys on the cams, mark the degrees aligned with the lobe centres, rotate the cams a number of degrees to their TDC positions based on the cam specs, lock the cams, install on heads, and then with the cams still locked, loosen the pulleys and find the pulley holes to use to match the cams and a tight belt. It would be easy to make a simple spreadsheet showing which holes to use (as in the link above) but more holes might make it easier and the degree marks will be useful for tracking lobe centers vs. crank TDC. I would welcome comments on this logic (or lack thereof
Hi Derek, I think Mark in post 19 sums it up well! Degree marks on the pulley may be more confusing than helpful? I have used Frank Capo steel cam pulleys which are drilled all the way around and found them much easier to dance around to achieve the valve lift at tdc that I was seeking. Your initial cam installation method is sound but it is always interesting how far out things can be after a few rotations of the engine when checking against valve lift! Cheers
I might get a couple of the pulley dowel holes made 9-10mm to take an eccentric pin and sleeve. This would allow about 10-12 degrees of adjustment with very little extra cost and complexity. The drive torque is usually not through the dowel pin but through the friction between the flange and the cam but the sleeve will be locked in place by the cam bolt head anyway. Anyone who doesn't want to play with the timing can just use the fixed holes. Image Unavailable, Please Login
