308 Clutch Adjustment? Help me please. | Page 2 | FerrariChat

308 Clutch Adjustment? Help me please.

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Quasimotor, Jun 27, 2004.

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  1. gerritv

    gerritv Formula 3

    Jun 18, 2001
    1,400
    St Catharines
    Full Name:
    Gerrit
    Hi
    All GT4's and the early GTS/GTB's had the over-center helper style mechanism. But there is a Tech Bulletin that describes conversion to constant contact operation (referring to the throwout bearing). It can be difficult to tell which setup you have since in some cases people have done a partial conversion. It matters when making the adjustments.
    The Tech Bulletins can be viewed at http://dino308gt4.com as can the service manual for carbed 308's (Same manual for GT4, early GTS and early GTB, this should help to dispel those vicious rumours that GT4's are not real Ferrari's. :) )
    For QuasiMotor sepcifically, there is a QV service manual on Steve Jenkins site, http://ferrari.jenkins.org

    Gerrit
     
  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,674
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Don, good to see you back, how's the car?

    On the GT4, you :

    1. Disconnect the cable at the tranny
    2. Line up the 2 6mm holes on the clutch actuating arms and the tranny, then put a screw driver through the holes to keep them there.
    3. Adjust the cable adjuster link so that the cable can be connected just right.

    Remove the screw driver, you are done.
     
  3. 1975gt4don

    1975gt4don Formula Junior

    Nov 5, 2003
    665
    Peoples Rep of CA
    Full Name:
    Smog Exempt
    Mitchell, car should be in my hands sometime within the next few days!

    Which two 6mm holes are you referring to in reference to the diagram I am posting here?

    From the diagram, it appears that there is a 6mm alignment hole near fulcrum 3 on the lever 1 and another 6 mm alignment hole on the bell housing itself probably near the fulcrum 3 as shown. I am suspecting that this alignment is an eyeball alignment or do I insert a pencil or something straight to insure that the two holes are perfectly aligned and not cocked?

    Thanks in advance.

     
  4. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,674
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Them's the ones. Stick a mid-size screw driver through them and then adjust.
     
  5. Quasimotor

    Quasimotor Formula Junior

    Jan 4, 2004
    351
    Yonkers, NY
    Full Name:
    George Avgerakis
    Uh, one last question, what is a "clevis" pin?

    Quazi
     
  6. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
    BANNED

    Jul 22, 2003
    8,520
    Melbourne
    Full Name:
    Phil Hughes
    A clevis is a fork shaped linkage connector, the clevis pin connects the cable fork to the arm....with a split pin through the hole to stop it falling back out again....many cars end up with bolts in their place...this is wrong

    you funny americans may call it a cotter pin, or you may call the split pin the cotter pin, I'm a mechanic, not a linguist!!

    and yelcab....

    strictly speaking you are slightly incorrect

    to set up the remote helper type you FIRST set free play to be about 10-15mm at the pedal using the 11 and 8 mm main clutch adjuster, THEN you CHECK that a 6mm drill bit slides through the alignment holes, and THEN if it doesn't you adjust the cable length 10mm spanner part to get it right...if you were to put a drill/pin in the holes FIRST is it quite possible to have no idea what the free play is.

    Chances are, like a QV, if you're just taking up a bit of wear, and the cable was correctly set when installed, then the cable will not need adjusting...ever.

    And using a screwdriver that is say 5mm, not 6mm makes a surprising amount of inaccuracy to the helper device.
     
  7. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    13,674
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    Stricly speaking, F-Fixer, we are both slightly incorrect. The WSM says (refer to the pix above posted by Don) to disconnect item 4, line up the two holes, and adjust the linkage number 4 so that it just fits over the arm.

    Done this way, the pressure plate has zero loading at rest, thereby saving your thrust bearing. And the pedal freeplay is given by the 5-6mm flex in the spring-arm.

    There, you go Don.
     
  8. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    BTW, a Craftsman #2 phillips screwdriver seems to be just the right size for these holes. It's a snug fit which is what you want.

    The best writeup including drawings for setting up the old style clutch linkage is in the 308GT4 workshop manual. A PDF is available at:

    http://ferrari.jenkins.org/books/
     
  9. Quasimotor

    Quasimotor Formula Junior

    Jan 4, 2004
    351
    Yonkers, NY
    Full Name:
    George Avgerakis
    Okay guys - finally got around to adjusting this clutch - but I used a slightly different meathod, because with the rear end jacked high enough for me to get under the car, there wasn't any room to drop that plumb line or to line up that cardboard with a level guage. Here's what I did. Please comment if you think this was Okay.

    I had someone, (gently - my cohones were at the pinch point if the car fell off the jack stands) ease in the clutch to see how far and in what direction it traveled. This gave me an estimate as to how many degrees of arc I was pushing in the cabin and what direction the adjustment twists had to go.

    Then I had the assistant pull UP on the clutch pedal, and here I got a suprise! The amount of degrees BACK, in other words, representing the actual travel distance to full-up pedal, was about 25% of the full arc!!

    Now this car has, since I bought it through a reputable mechanic who did the major, a tendency of having a very high releasing clutch. No wonder - it was adjusted that way!

    With about 3-4 turns of the adjusting screw, I backed off the actuator lever until it came to rest at the point where the clutch pedal let it go when the assistant lifted the clutch pedal by hand to the highest point.

    In other words, my theory was that the actuator arm should be at max rearward movement simultaneous with the pedal being at max height (minus a tiny bit to add some cable tension.).

    I took this out on the road and what a dif! The release point is down near the floor where it always was - but the grab point - and it grabs like a lobster on your left t*stic*l - is about half way up. Just perfect. Feels like I got 10,000 miles left on this clutch.

    So my quesions are this: Did I do the right thing?

    And - is it possible the mechanic was setting me up to wear the clutch out early??? It seems the adjustment was equal to riding with the foot resting on the clutch, no???

    Advice most appreciated.

    Quazi-grabbin-moto
     
  10. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    NO.

    The release point and grab points should be fairly close to the top of
    the pedal's travel.

    It's supposed to be that way.
    The 308s with the new style (late '70s forward) clutch linkage are designed so that the throwout bearing is ALWAYS slightly touching the pressure plate. Thus the pedal spring is always pulling down enough so that the linkage has no slack in it, and the throwout bearing is slightly riding against the pressure plate. Thus as soon as the pedal starts to move, the pressure plate starts to reducee pressure on the driven disc.

    The purpose of the clutch adjustment is to keep the pressure from the pedal spring low enough so that the spring isn't starting to release the clutch.
     
  11. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 30, 2003
    18,130
    Savannah
    bump, so i can find this.
     

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