308 clutch change What else to change while in there?

As long as you are in there, change the rear main seal.

 

There are a few small O-rings that you need for reassembly--dont forget them

 

If you do want to replace the lip seal on the clutch output shaft and/or disassemble the pivoting internal rod stuff to give it a good lubrication, you might want to get a fresh pair of the tapered pins 108429 beforehand -- although reusable in theory, I couldn't get them out without destroying them.

 

I would definitely do the rear main seal on the engine.

There is another seal on the bell-housing, around the enginer-output-transmission-input shaft (upper one), buried underneath the shift fork area. I would change that too. It is not visible and somewhat hard to find.

 

Yep- a slide hammer worked well- just took a little while to grind down the puller attachment so it would fit through the pilot bearing. After that- it popped out after a few light pulls.

Very light taps on a flat hardwood block to install the new one- until you are sure it's started straight. At least that worked for me.

Good luck.

 

slide hammer worked for me, but it was more work than I would have liked.

bought an el-cheapo pilot bearing puller from harbor freight for the next time.

I removed the main seal by drilling a small hole in it and inserting a coarse threaded screw, then just yanked on the screw with pliers. easy.

to drive in the new seal, I think I used a pvc pipe coupling from the hardware store. just take the new seal and find the pipe diameter or coupling that fits. you want to be driving on the outer rim of the seal

I used a hunk of wood across the end of the coupling to pound on, but next time I'll probably just get a pipe cap and glue it all together.

air impact wrench makes flywheel removal pleasant, and note that the flywheel has a slightly asymmetric bolt pattern, since it must obviously go on only one way. however, the asymmetry is not much, so note the orientation of the flywheel before removing to make reassembly simple.

with the bell housing off, you have a lot of room to get at things on the front of the engine, so take advantage of the space.
in particular, check the rubber coolant pipe couplings

oh, and steve's comment about the tapered pins was true for me. I wound up having to use a shop press and a torch to get one out. destroyed both in the process. unless that seal is leaking, I'd skip replacing it.

 

Yes, you get a nice view.

Barry

 

Yes it does, and does not need to come out for a clutch job. Unless, of course, you are also changing the seal on that shaft.

 

yes- that gear stays. Just photograph every step- so you can look back while you are putting it all back together. Make sure the two transfer gears go back on the same way. Just look for the side with part numbers on them.