308 cold run actuator intermittent | FerrariChat

308 cold run actuator intermittent

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by stevegtsi, Feb 19, 2006.

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  1. stevegtsi

    stevegtsi Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2004
    316
    my 308gtsi cold start actuator seems to be switching on and off until the car reaches the correct temperature. there is plenty of coolant in the reservoir. could the electrical connections be corroded? thanks in advance for any suggestions
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,931
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    I don't think that that symptom can be caused by a corroded connection, but a thermal switch that was (wrongly) closing occasionally when cold would give that symptom.

    To test, measure the voltage between the two terminals on the small electrovalve controlling the application of vacuum to actuator on the cold start air valve (see Fig 60 of your OM) -- if the voltage is always ~0V when cold and always ~+12V when warm, that would confirm that everything in the electrics was OK, and you'd have to look elsewhere (bad vacuum lines, bad electrovalve, bad cold start valve, etc.) if the fast idle was inconsistent when cold. If the voltage toggles between 0V and +12V when cold (and corresponds with fast idle and no fast idle conditions), that would indicate that the thermal switch is wacky.
     
  3. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
    2,198
    Seattle, Washington
    Full Name:
    Cliff
    Steve, what makes you think the cold start valve is cycling on and off?

    When operating properly, the csv opens only for about 4-6 seconds upon initial start then is closed thereafter. The warm up regulator is really doing the work of managing the fuel/air mixture throughout the warm up process by way of increasing fuel pressure while the engine is cold. The WUR has several inputs affecting the fuel pressure, and therefore, fuel mixture, coming from the fuel distribution block.

    As mentioned above, check the electrics and see if you really do have a cycling electrical signal to the csv. I suspect there's more to it than simply a failed coolant temp sensor. If you're having trouble tracking this down, there's a very good Bosch CIS tuning book produced by Bosch - Amazon has it in stock. Persist and good luck!
     

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