Not sure on the technical terms but here goes: The driver side door was having problems shutting; after removing the 'silver thing that the door latches onto, that is screwed on the body of the car', I observed that the (according to Ricambi America) 'Rear bracket for support lock striker' was free-floating; after trying to screw the 'silver thing that the door latches onto' back in, the bracket fell into the body of the car. I have no idea how to get the bracket back; I tried to use a 'bendy claw thing' and a 'bendy magnet thing' but to no use. Anyone have any ideas?
Actually the bracket is not inside the door; it is in the body of the car, about where the latch you pull to open the engine hatch is. Any ideas? Thanks.
Good idea Greg- Right now I've been driving with a screwdriver through the door panel to keep it from opening and tied the inside of the door to the seat belt holder as back up. In other words, to drive it, I have to get in through the passenger side until I can fix the door. It's a DIY Ferrari
Not sure about the 308 but on the 328 you could pull the latch handle for the engine bay latch handle on the door jamb and look through the opening. That might let you see well enough to hook the nutplate with a wire or claw and get it back out. To reinstall it, thread a wire through the upper hole in the striker plate and into the body cavity. Using the opening from the latch plate (described above) hook the end of the wire through a hole in the nutplate and then use the wire to pull it into the body cavity and then up into place. Install the lower screw and then you can pull the wire or cut it off and install the upper one. I had to do something like this on another car once.
Time for a new tool - a borescope. It will allow you to see the part and the magnetic or whatever pickup device. And it's a neat tool-toy to have anyway. Video or borescope: http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/general/demos/dcs200-dcs300-demo.htm These 2 are inexpensive ~$150 http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/general/fiber-optic-scopes/dcs200.htm?ganclickid=00048dcf8aa2d1600a605302bc1a7e0b#00033404?ref=gbase http://www.unbeatablesale.com/doba10746.html?utm_source=froogle4&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=DOBA10746 .
That 328 technique sounds like it should work. These cars always have an access panel for whatever job you need to do! Good luck, I know I thought about what a problem it would be to drop that in there. How about on the passenger side, though? :O
Thanks All- Passenger side is fine; I had the same door problem on my benz; the driver door I assume takes all the wear and this might be why its the only door that goes bad usually(the door that's used 100% of the time). Even if the wire trick works, I might just get that cool borescope anyway
If all else has failed, you drain the gas tank, remove it, remove the panel behind it, and you can get to the inside of the body that way. Yes, it is a lot of work.
Looking at your picture it seems like removing the bonnet latch would help. But, I have the bonnet latch out on mine. I just went out to the garage to see if I could reach up to the back of those holes...nope. My door bracket appears to be held inside a pocket of metal so that it couldn't fall down. Taking the latch out does no good. This subject scared me though since my strikers are removed, I had to run out and make sure the backing plates were still there.
All, I changed the fuel filter today and while I was down there I tried to see more of the situation; aside from removing the gas tank, I have no idea where it could be; even if I bought a new bracket I couldn't install it anyway without pulling the tank. So either buying the borescope or perhaps just leaving the bracket in there and using perhaps some expansion screws in the four holes in the body to secure the striker to, are the options. Unless I can find a 'bendy claw thingy' with a magnet thin enough to get inside...
Mikey, I've sent you a PM mate. I've restored my car and that part was removed as can be seen in the attached photo. I'll try and get to my mechanic this afternoon on the way home from work and ask the question. I'll take some pics as well. Cheers Brett Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ok Mikey, I managed to stop by and look at my car. Unfortunately you will need to remove the tank. Thats not a major job, just a pain in the backside. I've taken some pics to show you what the plate looks like, how its retained and a couple of places where you can try and access it from under the car. This isn't actualy my car (way too dirty ) as the fuel tank is back in. Phil just happened to have another 308 there with the fuel tank out. There are 4 photo's:- 1. Shows the plate with the retaining clip. This retaining clip must have fallen out. 2. Is just the iniside of the panel showing the area along the sill where it may have dropped. 3 & 4. These are two spots where you can have a look from under the car. Perhaps the plate has landed here and you may be able to drag it out. Alot easier than going through the holes in your photo. I think you are better to try and find the part from going in via photo's 3&4. I Hope this helps. Thanks to Phil (Ferrarifixer) for spending the time to explain and show how it all works. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks a bunch Brett! I truly appreciate it. From looking at your photos, it must be tightly lodged somewhere, as I had started the car and drove it a bit but did not hear any 'rattling' sound; also, when looking through the four holes, the gas tank is clearly visible, and from your pictures with the gas tank removed, it may also be lodged against the gas tank. When I first got the car, I drained out all the old fuel as the car had been parked for much of its life; needless to say, I didn't realize there were TWO gas tanks until I just about ran out of empty jars! I won't have time until saturday to drain out the fuel; this may require some 'spirited' driving
Don't mean to offend you but isn't driving the car a foolish gamble as the bracket can now be somewhere on the street which is why it doesn't rattle. Personally, I'd love to have an excuse to spend $160 or so on the borescope against the numerous times I've spent bending coat hangers and lowering magnets into the vast unknown for retrieval of $0.02 items. I'm still missing my antenna switch nut which dropped 5" into the console and after 4 hours of hunting is still eluding me. There are better ways to bond with one's car but you sure get to intimately know its innards.
Is it possible US cars are different? My bonnet latch is out and I cannot reach upwards at all like should be possible based on that photo. There's a piece of metal between the bonnet latch hole and the striker backing plate.....Strange.
If you look closely at photo 1 Jason you can actually see that there is a gusset. That's probably what you can feel???? Not sure but may be thats what it is, but yes this is an Aussie car (I think, could be UK car) but is RHD.
Mikey, Have you got a resolution to this yet?? I freaked when I saw your post and the other pictures... since my car has been undergoing a long term restoration I realized I had FORGOTTEN to put those plates back in my car when things started going back together... at this point both tanks and the motor are back in!! CRAPPPPP!!!! Not to fear. If you remove the wheels and liners along with the pleated tubes that run from the side vents, you can look over the top of the gas tanks and see the back of the B pillars where the 4 holes for the striker are. My plates are simple steel so I'm assuming yours would be too. You can drop a magnet down over the tanks on a string to fish your plate out. Going back in - I pushed a piece of string through the door holes and over the top of the tanks using a coat hanger. I wrapped the door end of the string around a piece of wood so it would not pull through. Then you thread the nut plate onto the string and slide it down the string to the back of the door pillar. Reach through the 4 big holes with a spring hook or dental tool to grab it and pull it into final position. I used a couple of long screws to get things into place at first (M6 x 1.0 thread) then replaced them with the right screws once I had two of the correct screws in place. Whole process was less than 20 minutes. I left my camera at the shop but when I bring it home, I'll post some pictures. Rick
Thanks so much Rick-I will try exactly what you said this weekend. I've finally fixed the overheating issues with my car and had been testing and driving the car with a screwdriver as a lock and some zip-tights as extra security to keep the door from opening-car runs fantastic now! Cannot wait to fix the door once and for all this weekend. I also noticed that the latch on the door that grabs the striker plate, does not lock when I push it in with my finger; the passenger door latch does. So the problem I had initially was not only the striker plate on the body of the car shifting over time, but also the latch that grabs it is in need of replacing too. A replacement latch on Ricambi is $1100.00, so I'm hoping I can fix it somehow-will have to take it apart and investigate. Hope to see your pictures. Will keep you all posted on this. Mikey
Brett, Pur-deeeeee !!!!!! That is gunna be soooooooo SW EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEA TTTT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!