308 door panels (speaker installation)

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by sfrazier, Jun 19, 2004.

  1. sfrazier

    sfrazier Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    May 18, 2004
    Concord, CA
    Full Name:
    I am in need of updating the speakers in my 84 308QV. I have searched and searched and can't find the instructions on how to remove the interior door panels, and the gotchas involved. I also need to know what size speakers and what brands are recommended.

    thanks in advance.

    - sean
  2. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    way north california
    Full Name:
    chris morse
    my po had replaced the speakers, so I am not sure if he did anything out of the ordinary. I just removed 4 screws and the cover came off. another 4 screws and the speaker was out. Measure the diameter and away you go.

    HTH chris
  3. Mike328

    Mike328 F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Oct 19, 2002
    Boulder, CO
    Full Name:
    A long time ago, I "Collected" an email from a gentleman, whose name I believe was Ed, who put together a procedure and posted it on the FerrariList. I formatted it nicely and made a Word Document out of it.

    It's called "Removing Door Panels / Window Motor Rebuilds
    Ferrari 308," and includes very clear instructions on door panel removal (as well as other things about the window motors that you're not interested in).

    I'll also post it plain-text below.

    Re: Speakers, by default the size is 5 1/4", and some attention has to be paid such that the speakers are not too "deep." At the same time, I believe the hole can be enlarged to accomodate 6", but this requires cutting metal. Even an aftermarket 5 1/4" speaker MAY require drilling new holes. Any new speaker will probably sound a great deal better than what's in there.

    And don't forget Mike Charness's thoughts on replacing the speaker panels with special fabric (search the archives), which will apparently increase the perceived output of the speakers.

    Good luck!



    Removing Door Panels / Window Motor Rebuilds
    Ferrari 308

    Power windows on 308s moving sluggishly, getting stuck in disoperation, etc. Gets worse as the temperature drops.

    OEM lubricant in the worm gear/spool drive mechanism hardens overtime to consistency of semi-cured epoxy, causing dramatic increase infraction for drive motor to overcome. Secondary cause is suspected voltage drop through Ferrari electrical harness, causing drive motor to develop less than rated power ;)

    Remove power window drive mechanism, clean out hardened stuff, relubricate and reinstall.

    Supplies needed:
    • 10mm wrench
    • Slim-head 10mm crescent wrench.
    • 8mm wrench or socket
    • Silicon spray
    • White lithium grease
    • Very small screwdriver/dental pick/toothbrush and solvent,
    • Large and small Phillips screwdriver
    • Large standard screwdriver
    • "Stubby" short standard screwdriver(or equivalent)
    • Good work light
    • One metric hex-key (sorry, don't remember size off hand - you'll need it for 2 bolts at the top front of the door -open the door and look at the top front of it - you'll see two bolts about2" apart; one above the other - the hex key fits them)


    1. Remove arm rest - 2 Phillips head screws under the aft portion, 1 10mmacorn nut and 1 10mm nut in front. On driver's side, be careful of electric mirror switch/cable. It can be easily removed by prying the forward end off the switch out and sliding the assembly out and to the front. Carefully disconnect the edge connector at the aft end of the assembly.

    2. Remove door panel - 2 small Phillips head screws holding trim piece under door latch mechanism. 2 Phillips head screws in lower front and top back of speaker grill area. 2 Phillips head screws w/ countersunk-type washer on back edge of door panel top and bottom. 1 same-type screw on bottom edge of panel about mid-door. Remove door lock button (screws on).Panel should be free - carefully pull bottom edge away from door and lift up to free top edge from window channel. Good time to clean/treat the leathern the panel.

    3. Remove speaker - some # of screws holding the speaker, 2 leads to speaker

    4. Remove fully/partially dust/water cover (plastic sheet) to get to inside of door.

    5. Remove rear window track (window will have to be at least partially unto do this - full up worked ok for me). One standard-head machine screw(bolt) at top/rear of door (back of exterior door latch assembly). One bolt at bottom of track - 10mm nut on standard-head bolt with washer/lockwasher. Remove track by carefully pulling up and out the top.

    6. Remove window - loosen 10mm bolts pinching cable at rear and at front of window lower edge (this is where the thin 10mm crescent wrench comes in handy - fits between the spacer and the flat edge of the pinching surface).You may need to move the window up/down to get access to the front cable attach point. I marked the cable for the first window and subsequently found it wasn't really necessary.

    7. Remove window front track - one bolt at bottom, one at top rear of track and 2 bolts you'll need a hex key for at the top front edge of the door.

    8. Make a sketch of the cable routing - it goes from the upper part of the drive spool to the top front pulley, bottom front pulley, rear top pulley, rear bottom pulley, tensioner pulley and back to the bottom part of the drive spool. Loosen tensioner pulley (you'll need the shorty standard screwdriver to keep the thing from turning as you try to loosen the 10mm nut- I didn't have a shorty screwdriver and found that a thin washer clamped in a vise grips worked ok too). When tensioner pulley is loose, carefully free the cable from the pulley arrangement.

    9. Disconnect electrical leads to motor (if you reverse them upon reassembly, the window moves opposite to the switch, no big deal to fix).

    10. 3 8mm nylock nuts/washers hold the motor assembly to the door. Motor comes out toward rear of door.

    11. Make sketch of cable supply/return to spool, noting that it straddles one of the cover attach points. On clean work surface, remove 3 standard screws holding drive mechanism cover on. Carefully remove cover, exposing worm gear and spool - if lots of hardened lubricant is found, you've hit the problem. Carefully remove the old lubricant - scraping, picking, sparingly using solvent (don't melt the plastic). The worm gear/bushings pull out away from the motor - they're metal, so solvent is less of a risk. The spool and metal backing plate pull off the motor/base.

    12. Re-lubricate the clean mechanism - I used white lithium grease; I’m sure there's something even better. Here's the tricky part - rewind the cable back on the drive spool. If you get too many/too few turns on the spool, you will have the wrong length of cable to route around the pulleys. I found that by following the grooves on the spool and turning the cable to use all of them without overlapping worked fine. NOTE: IT DOESN'T MATTERIF YOU DON'T GET THE CABLE WOUND ON THE SPOOL JUST AS IT CAME OFF, AS LONGAS THE SAME AMOUNT OF CABLE IS WOUND ON THE SPOOL. Replace the worm gear/bushings and cover.

    13. Re-install the motor - the cable will try to jump off the spool and you might find it convenient to have a second pair of hands help keep some tension on the cable to prevent this.

    14. Re-string the cable around the pulleys and then reposition the tensioner pulley to provide what seems like the same tension the cable had before (not super critical). IMPORTANT: THE CABLE RUNNING FROM THE BOTTOMREAR OF THE DOOR, OVER THE TENSIONER AND BACK TO THE SPOOL MUST BE CLOSER TOTHE INSIDE OF THE CAR THAN THE CABLE RUNNING FROM BOTTOM FRONT TO TOP REAR.(otherwise you'll find the window will go halfway down and get stuck on the other length of cable and you'll have to restring the cable. Bet you’re wondering how I figured this out...)

    15. Re-connect the motor leads and carefully operate the motor up and down. You may decide to tweak the tension a bit, but you should have full up/down travel and be able to determine the normal lower limit of the cable (not the point where it will not go any farther, but a couple of inches before this -look at the inner door panel - mine deflects a bit when you go to far).Leave cable at normal lower limit of travel.

    16. Reinstall front window and track. Silicon spray in the track was suggested in the FCA article.

    17. Reinstall window.

    18. Reinstall rear track - remember window goes into track. You may need to have a helper hold, or set some items in the door to block the window partially up to get access to the lower track bolt. Test proper position of rear track by allowing window to slide up and down - remember, the less effort it takes, the better chance the motor has of doing the job.

    19. Reattach the rear clamp with the window in the full down position (remember the cable should also be in the full down position). Carefully operate the motor and assist the window to a partially up position where you can access the forward clamp and reattach. Carefully test run the window upend down until you are satisfied with the alignment. Remember to properly tighten the clamps and the tensioner pulley when things are the way youwant.20. Replace the inner liner, speaker, inner door panel and armrest.

    Congratulations - you've solved your window problem!!

    Total time to complete
    Probably about 4 hours, including 1 hour just cleaning the gunk off the mechanism. The second one may go faster. Hope this is helpful and not a waste of bandwidth.
  4. Mike328

    Mike328 F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed

    Oct 19, 2002
    Boulder, CO
    Full Name:
    The Word Document didn't seem to attach, but I got a now-infamous "there seems to be a slight problem with the database" error... So let's try it again...
  5. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    way north california
    Full Name:
    chris morse
  6. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    way north california
    Full Name:
    chris morse

  7. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Ed Shryer's article has been on Fchat since I posted it in Aug '2002:

    I also cleaned it up a bit & added my own $0.02 in suggestions from my experience while using it (Every editor likes the flavor better after he's p**d on it.)
    As a result it's quite a bit longer than the version posted below. (Whether or not it's 'better' I'll leave up to the reader.')

    The thread also has Mike Tarrant's relay fix, along with my cautions against just jumping in & doing it by itsellf.

    Mike, Too bad you didn't spot it in the archives, could have saved you a bit of work.

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