308 engine motor mount isolator bolt seized | FerrariChat

308 engine motor mount isolator bolt seized

Discussion in '308/328' started by mixedgas, May 6, 2024.

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  1. mixedgas

    mixedgas Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 23, 2019
    267
    Ramona, CA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Used all the keywords in this title... I'm changing the engine mounts (isolators) on my 85 308. The big 19mm bolt on the bottom is spinning. The internals of the engine mount are turning with the bolt. I've tried holding the "collar" with vice grips but they are not strong enough. Before I get medieval on this bolt and drill / grind out the head, I thought I'd ask if there are any tips/tricks to get the bolt out? My new mounts have 'flats' machined into the collar but I dont have a wrench that skinny. Do the old mounts have similar flats machined in? With the amount of torque I put on that 19mm bolt and how tight the vice grips were (and that wasn't enough) I seriously doubt a skinny wrench would hold that collar vs. my 60 inch breaker bar. I'm weighing the effort of finding/making a skinny wrench vs. drilling. I suppose I'll need the skinny wrench to hold the new mount in place when tightening. I wish more people believed in anti-seize. Thanks for listening.
     
  2. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,742
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    Help me get this thing finished! https://gofund.me/39def36c
    An impact wrench is how I removed them on my car.
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,106
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
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    Brian Crall
    It is a 12mm bolt, not a 19.

    The original mounts should have flats ground into them.

    People sell thin wrenches. There are also grinders.

    A 1/2 air gun is often required. Anti seize is suggested on reassembly.
     
  4. mixedgas

    mixedgas Formula Junior
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    Apr 23, 2019
    267
    Ramona, CA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Thanks all. I hit it hard with the M18 impact to no avail. Agree it's a 12mm bolt with a 19mm head, I was being lazy. I'm not convinced a thin wrench will survive the amount of torque needed... but I like an excuse to buy more tools. I may just get the sawzall out. Will post pics. Thanks again
     
  5. sltillim

    sltillim Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 22, 2009
    1,697
    San Diego
    Heat Gun and a good breaker bar.
     
  6. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    Apr 1, 2004
    16,339
    Dumpster Fire #31
    Full Name:
    SMG
    I've actually had to cut off two mount bolts before. Completely rusted and seized in the mount. Total PITA job. Since we we're building a new engine for the customer I had the luxury of removal in an empty engine bay. Do not envy your position.

    Once that inner rubber seal goes and water gets in.. all bets off to ease of removal.

    Not common, but it happens.
     
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  7. mixedgas

    mixedgas Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 23, 2019
    267
    Ramona, CA
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Quick update here. I made a skinny 19mm wrench but it didn't stop that collar from rotating - could be that I mangled the collar with vice grips, channel locks, knipex tool etc... I got out the big vice grips, and turned the M18 up to full strength and the bolt ended up coming out. Was glad not to get the sawzall involved. It looks like water got onto the threads (as SMG2 pointed out) and caused the threads to corrode. I tried to clean up the threads but they are too far gone to reuse. I remove another one of the bolts (also pictured) and it came out easier but is still corroded. Fortunately, my local hardware store had M12x1.75 Class 10.9 bolts in stock, so I'll just use those. Thanks for the suggestions and comments! -Mike

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