308 Engine Reaction Rod "buffers"

March Performance has turnbuckles like that for custom alternator installs, seems you you use one of those and some shock or suspension bushings and mount it that way.

or, call some of the f cars parts guys in the UK, i bet they may have what you need.

ps: that looks like you could get the turnbuckle from a boat place, then match up bushings. it looks like things i have seen on sailboat tackle.

 

I used 2 big sockets and a big bench vice to R&R both bushings a few months ago during an engine-out major.
They didnt exactly fall right out, but wasn't too tough to do.
Unless you're changing the engine mounts (in which case a lot of other interfaces would be misaligned) the OEM rod should not need changing/adjusting - not sure I see the purpose of an adjustable rod?

 

Hi Mike,

I am assuming that the new rubber bushing has an outter and inner sleeve of steel.
You can use two sockets and a vise to push out the old bushing and press in the new one. One socket should be a close fit to the inside diameter of the brace sleeve and the other socket should be a close fit on the outside of the new rubber bushing's metal sleeve.
If you don't have a vise you can use the largest, (high strength) bolt that will fit through the sockets and the bushing's inner sleeve.
This is the same "backyard" approach I used to replace the orriginal Koni shock top and bottom mounting bushings.
Assemble the two sockets, one on either side of the old bushing so that the flat side of the smaller socket is set to push the bushing through the reaction rod into the open side of the larger socket. Centering all three components is critical, so that the smaller socket pushes only on the outter bushing sleeve, while the larger socket supports the reaction rod.
Three hands help hold all of the bits in proper alignment while you tighten the handle.
Sometimes these bushing sleeves are firmly rusted to the part and you might want to use your favorite "break-away" penetrant to ease the disassembly. This of course makes everything stink and get slippery, which makes it tough to maintain alignment.
You may have to resort to strong language and alcohol.

Bona Fortuna,
chris

 

BTDT - Yup, burn it out. Torch the bushing rubber only - makes a mess, catches fire, smokes enough to get the neighbors worried. You can then punch out the center sleeve and dig out the rubber remants. Put a hack saw blade through the bushing and put it back on the frame. Carefully slice through the outer sleeve. Once you get close breaking through, the sleeve will start to collapse and bind on the blade. You can now remove the blade and a simple drift or small chisel will make the outer sleeve just fall out. Blast it, paint it, plate it... press in the new bushing.



Rick