Yes! Someone had mentioned that i should try and ad plants to my exhaust and headers. Livening things up!
Chris, So what's your timeline? If you don't mind, can you give an idea of your parts list and prices for those who might be embarking on a similar project.... JIM
Hi Jim, So far, just the heads, is $2800. The tranny is a separate job. That depends if you need a total rebuild. Verell saved me a lot of $$$ doing the job. (Thank you Verell) I have a parts list of what i got if you need it. The block i haven't started yet. I have been working 7 days since Sept and i have a couple of months before i get some time off. Self employed s*cks. I'm going to give the block to the guy that did my heads. I really don't know what needs/has to be done. I know i want the Compression raised to 10:1. Is 6-8k a realistic figure for a rebuild?? Timeline i'm shooting for summer/fall 09
Pizzaman's tranny parts list wouldn't be too useful, we got extremely lucky & located a tranny that had been rebuilt, but was never used as it was still too noisey due to a chipped gear tooth. So we got 40-50% of the parts we needed from it. Also quite a few of his original bearings were still in excellent condition, almost no signs of wear. Best to start with the FPC, list every bearing, synchro ring, synchronizer & synchronized gear pair. As you inspect each of them delete the good ones from the list & the remainder is what you'll need to buy.
I don't have any good news yet. But I do have some bad news. I had contacted Nick Forza and asked about his water pump back in Aug. He had me down for one. So what did I do? I sold my original on eBay. I figured I put that money towards the "new water pump." So I few weeks ago I contacted Nick to find out if they are all set to ship out. He told me the Company he sends them for the finishing work had disappeared along with all his pumps. Unfriginbelievable!!
Chris, I may have a water pump from a 1985 308QV. If you need one, let me know and...I'll start the search. Regards, David
Hey Chris, Since I know you've changed direction, did you ever get a set of manifolds and carbs? Ther's a forlorn Mondial8 in Austin I am looking at....
When you are ready to start the machine work on the block you are welcome to borrow my 308 Torque plate. I had it made by BHJ in California several years ago and is important to have when honing the block. David
Its debatable if a torque plate has any value on an engine with hand fit liners since they tend to move around in the block when in use. In a block with shrunk in liners then yes or a cast iron block of course. Just my 2 cents.
Paul, I've got to agree with David on this point... I think it's even more important to use a torque plate on these cars, as the liners are really only at "their true working dimensions" once the heads are torqued. When we rebuilt the Boxer engine, which uses the same liners at a 308, the bore was measured and then a torque plated was added, and then the bore was re-measured. Once the torque plate was installed, in effect, simulated what they "measured like" once the head was installed, the bore distortion was just shy of .002"... Furthermore, this is why verifying that the liner protrusion (above the block deck) is critical. Without the protrusion, the liners are not in compression, and hence not locked in placed. With the liner at .001-.002" above the deck, they will be "locked in pace" once the head is torqued on. We honed the liners to the final size, with the torque plate installed. Considering that the leakdown was less the 1.5% after a mere 20 minutes of running time, I personally think that the torque plate method works very effectively. David
The point is they move around unless you had custom liners made to fit each hole in the block. You will note that the TR liner specs are much tighter than the 365/512 for this very reason. .002" distortion matters only if the liner stays still, which they dont unless you go to the TR specs. Knowing the liners move around and focusing on wall distortion ignoring that fact seems silly. The 308 liners are the same as the boxer and the output of the engine is roughly 200HP, how much can one expect to extract from straight liners that flop around in the block?
I believe that the "liners move around" is overstated...otherwise we'd see many issues with blown headgaskets on these cars. Here's another way to look at it. When we re-size the big ends of connecting rods, the bolts are torqued to specs, hence simulating the actual working dimension of the rod. However, once the roads are in motion, there is still some degree of "out of round" that occurs once the crankshaft is turning under load. The idea is that we want to do our machine work with the engine components at close to operating conditions as possible, regardless of the specific HP output. My thoughts are if I'm going to build an engine, I'm going to take all factors into consideration, even if it only makes a minute difference... David