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308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

Discussion in '308/328' started by Pizzaman Chris, Sep 13, 2007.

  1. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    Thanks Verell.

    Looks like i will need a special tool to get them off.

    I'll probably have Artie hold them while i try to unscrew them. He needs to get his hands dirty.
     
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  3. jwise

    jwise Formula Junior

    Apr 2, 2003
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    It will be much easier (as Verell said) to install the cover to remove those ring nuts. Only takes a few minutes. Also- get two new ring nuts (part #104919) instead of using the old ones.

    Yes, you will need to borrow the special socket to remove/install those ring nuts.
     
  4. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    I've got the ring nut tool along with all the other 308 ring nut tools.

    Those nuts are torqued to 60 or so ft-lbs (think lug nut torque). You aren't going to break them loose w/o an air impact wrench, or a long breaker bar!!!

    Artie's strong, but even JWise isn't strong enough to hold one of those gears while someone's going at the other end with a breaker bar or air gun.
    ;^)

    I can't think of a reasonable way to hold those gears while removing the nuts. Maybe a big vise and blocks of wood to keep from damaging the gear teeth. Less risky to slip it back onto the engine & install a few nuts.
     
  5. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie
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    <seeking inspiration>

    At least I only have to put the oil-pump, gearbox, intake and exhaust on before mine is compolete.

    Looking at these pictures makes me wonder, "What the heck am I waiting for?".

    :p
     
  6. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    +1

    Yep...easiest way. Slip that cover back on and use an impact wrench with the correct tool. In a few minutes, those pesky nuts will be off!

    Best,
    David
     
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  8. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    Thanks Verell, David, I'll do that.

    But now the question is, do i break them loose, get all new bearings etc and reinstall the timing gears using the block as it is...

    Or

    Do i wait til the block is done with the new pistons and then reinstall the timing gears and re-torque it on the freshly done block?

    Hmmm....
     
  9. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    Until the engine is cleaned, there's no sense in installed the new bearings in the block . However, you could do the timing cover work (new parts, etc.) now....reassemble, then installed the completed cover on the block once the block is ready.

    David
     
  10. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    That's all you have to do??

    Com'on man, give Fchat a break and get hur done. ;)
     
  11. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    So guys, i will be dropping off my block next week to the engine guy. (it's about time!)

    What are some questions i need to ask him besides the price? :)

    What will he be looking for that might need to be replaced?
     
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  13. Ferraripilot

    Ferraripilot F1 World Champ
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    The main and rod bearings should be measured and replaced if out of spec. From what I have seen here, the mains and rods and incredibly tough so you may not have to replace any. Of course, you may be of the mindset to replace them as long as you are in there regardless. The cylinder wear needs to be checked, but again, these things are just bulletproof so I doubt you have much to worry about. If you are going to replace the rod bearings, the rods should be dial bored. Your machinist will know what this is. Just be ready to have the specs ready. Not a big deal. Might want to have the mains line-bored to check straightness. If you have a good machinist, he/she will let you know what is recommended for your rebuild based on what they see the general condition of the engine to be. It should be a straight-forward rebuild and machining job so I would not sweat things too much. Glad you are moving right along with things!
     
  14. duck.co.za

    duck.co.za Formula Junior

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    Chris you and I are pretty much at the same stage ! I have just got all my bits back from the machine shop . I'm no expert with these motors , but what I have seen with two blocks is the main bearing stud fixing into the block seems to be a weak link . One block was US and the other the stud needed to be bottomed out on there threads again . I had my mains line bore . Crank now spins nice freely . Another thing to check is liner protrusion . the liners must just stick out the top of the block surface . You could ask your machine shop to check it or I made a very simple dailgauge holder , piece of bar with a hole through it for the dialgauge and a grub screw to locate the D/G . I've been swoping my liner between cylinders to get the most even results . Mine seem to have all worked out at the top end of the spec .
    I've just spent the evening balancing my rods end to end . I found it quite difficult to get repeatable results . I'll have to keep at it .
    Are you going to have the crank , front damper , flywheel and pressure plate checked for balance ?
     
  15. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    John, Thanks again. I'll make notes of all this.

    That way when he's telling me what's going on i wont have that duh look. :)
     
  16. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    And Chris...

    You do have a local resource who has been through several hundred of these motors who you can draw upon...

    David
     
  17. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    You betcha. ;)
     
  18. Artvonne

    Artvonne F1 Veteran

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    Ask him if he is actually going to work on it and have it done within a reasonable time? You know, some of these shops we hear about.......
     
  19. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    Dave, i'm not aware of any of that. Is that something they normally do?

    I'll bring it up when i see him though.
    Thanks
     
  20. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

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    #642 CliffBeer, Nov 5, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2009
    Chris,

    I'd suggest making the point with the machist that should the rod or main bearings be out of spec (thus calling for installation of an undersized (typically 10 or 20 thou) bearing and a corresponding crank grind), they should call you before going ahead and doing anything. Specifically, they should give you an idea of what it will cost to install the bearings, line bore the mains and true bore the rods and, finally, grind/polish/balance the crank. They should also balance the rods for you, but it would be good to know up front what's the cost of doing this.

    Same for the cylinder bore of the liners. They might be able to do a light hone to remove any wear ridge, assuming there is one, and still stay within the spec tolerance for piston/liner gap. If a liner hone is not done then at a minimum the new rings should have the upper edges radiused or touched at 45 degrees in order to not bind at the ridge and potentially break. One more tip, if they're installing new piston rings for you then make sure they stagger the ring gaps around the pistons and try to avoid putting gaps at the lowest point on the "underside" of the piston when it's sitting in the bore.

    Try to have all the relevant specs ready/handy for the machinist - everything like std main/rod bearing dimensions, torque specs for the rod/main cap bolts (they'll need this both for reinstallation, and for line boring), etc.

    Good luck!
     
  21. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    #643 Pizzaman Chris, Nov 15, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hey guys, how do i remove the water temperture sender?

    Is it from the plastic sender or the big nut (which i don't have a big wrench for.)
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  22. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

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    crank on the smaller hex of the sender unit.


     
  23. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    As an FYI. That thing is a temp switch the you will no longer need so after you get it out that is the best place for the temp sensor you need for your EFI. You will need to drill and tap the big steel plug but it's not a big deal.
     
  24. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    So, you're saying to take out the plastic sender unit?

    Will do, Thanks
     
  25. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

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    #647 eulk328, Nov 16, 2009
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2009
    Yes. I took mine out a while back.

    From memory, it's actually the thermo time switch, as MK E alluded to (not temp. sender unit--as in temp guage) used to operate the cold start valve ("9th" injector). My cold start valve had been disconnected for years without a problem. Having that part removed will give more access for your hand if you need to stick it in that area once things are back together. Although it you're not keeping the original intake plenum on there access to the area will probably already be good.


     
  26. Pizzaman Chris

    Pizzaman Chris F1 Rookie
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    #648 Pizzaman Chris, Nov 21, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  27. Chef

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    #649 Chef, Nov 23, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hey Pizzaman,

    When can i get my garage space back??? You told me you needed it for a couple of months.













    That was 2 years ago!!!!:)

    The Unhappy Chef
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  28. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

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    LMAO! Arty needs the space for his Mustang restoration, man!
     

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