So have you decided which head gaskets you are going to use? Elring (I hear are the best), Victor Reinz (cheaper, but the V12 guys hate them), or Cometic (I know nothing about them really).
John, i was leaning towards the Elring head gaskets. The little research i have done, that's the name that keeps popping up.
You know that Artie aka "Chef" thinks i know what I'm doing. He told me once i get the 308 done he wants to bring the Mustang up to NH and start taking that apart for restoration. I'm working on it. National meet?? I haven't heard anything about this.
So i visited Verell a couple of Sundays ago to borrow his ring nut tool. Thanks Verell. Artie aka "Vice Grip" wanted to hold the gears first to see if we can unsrew them. Well, after a couple of trys with the gun, they came right off. Not bad. Image Unavailable, Please Login
So I decided to dig up the box marked Scotts Adjustable Pullies and take out the lower gear and to compare it with the OEM lower gear. First thing I noticed is the big difference in weight. One is a heavy iron piece and the other is a light aluminum piece. First picture is the back end that goes against the case cover. Second picture is the front. Third picture is a side comparison. Looks like the Aluminum gear is a tad taller. I need to measure them and get back on that. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
First thing I notice is the difference in pulley tooth. Being as the new ones are round tooth, can you get a timing belt of appropriate length in round cog drive (Jesel?) Rick
The 2V belt for this system is a std one for one of the japanese cars. A Mitsu. I think. Gates p/n & the car are listed in one of the 'new belt system' threads. It's OK if the pulley teeth are a bit longer than the OEM parts. IIRC this was by design, again it should be in one of the new belt system threads. The critical dimension is the height of the 'nose' above the teeth, which looks good in the side by side on the timing cover photo. BTW, Chris, before you press the new cam drive gears onto their shafts, mark the tooth (or groove between the teeth) that lines up with the keyway with a silver sharpie or red paint stick. When you have the timing cover re-installed AND the damper slid back into place, the marked tooth (and thus the keyway) must exactly line up with the notches in the timing cover casting. This ensures that the drive gear teeth exactly match up with the crank teeth they've worn in against, otherwise the gears will whine. It also ensures you can find a pair of holes in the cam gears & cam that line up when the timing is dialed in.
Will do Verell, Thanks So i was measuring the shafts with the gears on and it looks like on the new gear i have less on the shaft for the lock nut. OEM is 14 and New one is 12. Hmmmm........ Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
There's still plenty of threads for the ring nut. Compare it to the nut thickness, rule of thumb is that a nut must have at least 6 threads for full retention, maybe a bit more for the castle teeth in this case tho.
I've always heard at least 1 full thread beyond the nut for self locking nuts to work....the military wanted 2 full threads if I recall.
I don't have Verell's ring nut tool, so i screwed down the nuts as much as i could do by hand and this is what i got. I might be able to get a couple of more turns to get 1 full thread out. Will see. Next job is try to get that lock spring off. And it's not easy. Every time i grab it, it pops out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If the tool has replaceable tips, use the largest tip that will fit in the ring's holes. A tip thats much smaller than the hole will probably bend inwards letting the ring slip off. If necessary file the outside of the tips so that they taper inward towards the tip's handle end. This will tend to keep the ring on. Good Luck! BTW, is there a washer under the ring nut, or is it up against the pulley's face?
I'll check the package to see if there are any longer tips. No, there was no washers under the ring nut. Thanks for the "tips" Verell.
I meant larger diameter, not necessairily longer. Not sure if longer will help, but could try it. If no luck, bring it over, I've got a tool that works well on them.
So i got the call from the machine shop to tell me he had taken everything apart. So i took a spin to his shop to drop off the engine manual section B that has all the spec etc. He showed me the worn parts and told me someone was "riding the clutch" A couple of pistons had some scuff on the side. I don't know what that's from. Someone?? The rods looked good, he did a magnaflux on them. Here's some pictures Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Piston scuffing is usually from wrong weight oil being use, over temp running, or detonation. Is the scuffing thrust face only or both sides? Doug
Time for some JE 11:1 slugs and some whopper cams baby! $155 a piston with rings, pins and clips. I got that quote last week for my boxer from JE and wiseco.
Did your machinist tell you the wear on your cylinder liners? I am very interested in that figure as there are so many on this forum who have had very little liner wear