308 Engine Rebuild & CIS to TWM Throttle Bodies Conversion Thread!

Get this thing done man!!!

The 3x8/Mondial national meet is just around the corner...

 

So have you decided which head gaskets you are going to use? Elring (I hear are the best), Victor Reinz (cheaper, but the V12 guys hate them), or Cometic (I know nothing about them really).

 

Cavallino Jan 2010 will it be ready?LOL

 

everything Great!

 

First thing I notice is the difference in pulley tooth. Being as the new ones are round tooth, can you get a timing belt of appropriate length in round cog drive (Jesel?)

Rick

 

The 2V belt for this system is a std one for one of the japanese cars. A Mitsu. I think. Gates p/n & the car are listed in one of the 'new belt system' threads.

It's OK if the pulley teeth are a bit longer than the OEM parts. IIRC this was by design, again it should be in one of the new belt system threads.

The critical dimension is the height of the 'nose' above the teeth, which looks good in the side by side on the timing cover photo.

BTW, Chris, before you press the new cam drive gears onto their shafts, mark the tooth (or groove between the teeth) that lines up with the keyway with a silver sharpie or red paint stick. When you have the timing cover re-installed AND the damper slid back into place, the marked tooth (and thus the keyway) must exactly line up with the notches in the timing cover casting. This ensures that the drive gear teeth exactly match up with the crank teeth they've worn in against, otherwise the gears will whine. It also ensures you can find a pair of holes in the cam gears & cam that line up when the timing is dialed in.

 

There's still plenty of threads for the ring nut. Compare it to the nut thickness, rule of thumb is that a nut must have at least 6 threads for full retention, maybe a bit more for the castle teeth in this case tho.

 

I've always heard at least 1 full thread beyond the nut for self locking nuts to work....the military wanted 2 full threads if I recall.

 

If the tool has replaceable tips, use the largest tip that will fit in the ring's holes. A tip thats much smaller than the hole will probably bend inwards letting the ring slip off.

If necessary file the outside of the tips so that they taper inward towards the tip's handle end. This will tend to keep the ring on.

Good Luck!

BTW, is there a washer under the ring nut, or is it up against the pulley's face?

 

I meant larger diameter, not necessairily longer. Not sure if longer will help, but could try it.

If no luck, bring it over, I've got a tool that works well on them.

 

Piston scuffing is usually from wrong weight oil being use, over temp running, or detonation.

Is the scuffing thrust face only or both sides?

Doug

 

Man that is one worn piston.

 

Time for some JE 11:1 slugs and some whopper cams baby! $155 a piston with rings, pins and clips. I got that quote last week for my boxer from JE and wiseco.

 

Did your machinist tell you the wear on your cylinder liners? I am very interested in that figure as there are so many on this forum who have had very little liner wear