308 exhaust header ?

Which header are you talking about,
The front, closest to the rear window,
or the rear header, nearest the trunk?

 

It's been a while, but going from memory...
Remove the aluminum pan & unbolt the parking brake center pivot.

 

I did that but seems passenger side motor mount is still in the way.

 

I had the same issue on my old 308. Yes, it can be done.

Searching the old FerrariChat.com archives (lots of answers there) on rear header remov, I came across my old threads:

Removing 308 headers
http://70.85.40.84/~ferrari/discus/messages/256120/216881.html

Removing Rear Header on 308
http://70.85.40.84/~ferrari/discus/messages/256120/8668.html


Here is one of my posts... I think some of this info came from the FerrariList:


So, I went digging and found a group of responses I had previously compiled on how to remove the headers. Here it is:

1. I had both headers off my 308. The rear one needs to go UP through the
open engine bonnet. It won't fit down through. Trust me on this. Even if
you remove the muffler, shields, emergency brake cables, etc. It still won't
go down through. So, save yourself all that time and remove the CIS fuel/air
meter, heat shield, top engine wishbone engine mount, and air cleaner, and it
will go up through.
That being said, who knows. Euro cars may be different. Different years
may be different too.


2. They come out the top... on the GTB that meant removing the coolant tank and reaction link, then the headers. On my GTSi, you need to remove the fuel head and reaction link.

Ric Rainbolt

<hr>


3. US or Euro car? I've done the Euro 308 GTS. For the aft header, remove the engine brace (between the aft valve cover and the frame) and associated bracketry, take the coolant reservoir loose from the frame and support it out of the way (I was able to put it between the aft cam cover and the right wheel well without having to disconnect the coolant lines), disconnect the header from the muffler, rotate the header up and out between the engine and the frame - I recall having to try several rotations before finding one that let me get the header out. If I remember correctly, I removed the muffler first and had already removed the exhaust heat shield before removing the header - not sure if this is necessary to get the header out. You may be able to maneuver the header sufficiently to get access to all the heat shield bolts and remove the heatshield without pulling the muffler.

Note if removing the muffler - you have to disconnect the right axle half-shaft in order to get the muffler off the car.

For the forward header, put the car on jackstands or better yet a lift, remove the right fender well liner, heat shields, and alternator, disconnect the shift shaft at the engine housing and at the shifter (requires removing the center console for access to the shifter end) and move the shift shaft forward out of the way, disconnect and move out of the way the various wiring harnesses in the area, loosen the hose clamps and tie-down strap for the gas crossover pipe and rotate it out of the way (shouldn't have to disconnect it, but watch for gas leaks from the connecting hose sections as you rotate the pipe - this is a good time to drain the tanks and replace these hoses), and finagle the header out through the bottom. Was quite a pain in the rear to figure out by trial and error - I spent three evenings with the header loose in the engine compartment progressively removing things until I got it out. Benefit of this approach was that I did not have to disconnect any coolant lines or remove the cam covers or gas tanks.

When you have the headers out, seriously consider getting them ceramic coated - I did that to mine three years ago and they still look pristine today.

Not sure this procedure will work as well on a US car as the heat shield, muffler, and header configuration is different. Hope this helps,

Mike Kelly
'79 308 GTS Euro


--Mike

 

Weird timing on a cracked header question! I have a 308 4v Euro that cracked/broke a header pipe on Saturday. I removed the header yesterday and is currently being welded.

I found that the easiest way to remove the rear header is out through the top. I removed the muffler, exhaust pipe between header and muffler, heat shields, shield brackets, reaction rod (disconnect the rear wall bracket and loosen the front bolt connected to cam cover so it swings up out of the way), fuel distributor (only enough to swing it out to so it rests on top of the intake plenum). All eight header to head nuts can be removed from the top.

The coolant expansion tank can stay in place.

Where did your header crack? Mine was about 3" from the head flange on the right most exhaust port.

It took about 2.5 hours to get that header out. No problems at all.

So, I will install in the next few days and should be good to go.