308 fast idle

That 3k idle is factory spec, congratulations. Most of us have modified it to 1500 cold idle or thereabout by choking the AAV output hose.

 

(Assuming you have a US version 308i-2V) This can occur if your cold start air valve system is not working correctly. The 308i-2V documentation indicates that there are two different arrangements -- where the mechanical logic of the cold start air valve's internal workings are reversed (so the vacuum plumbing on the electrovalve is reversed). If you can confirm how your system's electrovalve is plumbed (i.e., do you have Configuration 1 or Configuration 2?), as described below, there are some simple tests that you can do to figure out if something is wrong in the control portion of the system or if the cold start air valve itself is bad (although I'm sure that you'll get a hoard of messages telling you to just remove the whole thing ):
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check your carpet. sometimes mine holds the pedal.

 

(If it isn't the carpet ) Glad to suggest some simple tests that you might try to find the trouble, but I'd like to confirm what the electrical side is really doing (they completely mangled the electrical description and the description of the cold start air valve internal workings in the Mondial WSM, and the OMs don't really give any technical information). I'm 90% sure, that on a US 308i-2V, it should be working as decribed in this jpeg, but I don't want to post any misinformation, so if you (or anyone else with Configuration 2) could make these voltage measurements to confirm/deny that would be helpful:
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steve we should call you superman whenever some has a problem you frontup with all the right answers.. just like s/man.... it's gents like you with a wealth of knowledge and information that make f/chat a gem...... good onya mate

 

Thanks for the electrical information, but you have confused me. You initially said that you had Configuration 2 -- i.e., no hose on port 3, but now you say you "swapt [sic] the hose from port 3 to port 1". Can you clarify?

Also, (although you'll have to wait until tomorrow for things to cool off) can you confirm (with the way that you have it hooked up now) that at cold start-up the RPM is now going to ~3K RPM when the dash "cold" warning light is "on".

 

+1

This is a class joint compared to the chain whippings I have had in the Harley Usenet group.

 

Ditto. It is a rare occasion when folks as f-car smart as Steve take their valuable time to help another who is less informed. Typically, their time is quite valuable due to the substantial information base in their head, and therefore don't often share that for free on a public information board. Kudos to Steve.

 

OK, I understand what you did, and although this may have "fixed" your warm idle RPM, I don't like it for two reasons:

1. My guess is that your electrovalve is internally "stuck", and port 2 is always connected to port 3 regardless of the electrical signals that it is receiving (since you report that there is +12V on the two terminals when warm, yet by moving the vacuum source hose from port 1 to port 3 things are OK). When you move the vacuum source hose from port 1 to port 3 (and if the electrovalve is stuck), this is now putting vacuum on the cold start air valve actuator and closing it -- which "fixes" the warm condition (when the electrovalve is stuck), but will also (wrongly) close the cold start air valve when cold, and

2. If the electrovalve ever starts working correctly (and it might), you will get the wrong result for both cold and warm conditions with the hose moved -- i.e., no fast idle when cold and high idle when warm.

This jpeg describes the tests that I think you should do to really confirm where the trouble is (if the electrovalve is stuck, you should pass Test #1, but fail Test #2 when the vacuum hoses are returned to their stock locations):
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The 3K cold RPM is excessive IMO, and, if you would like to lower it some, while maintaining the stock equipment and function, this jpeg describes how:
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Good hunting!

Gentlemen -- Thank you for the kind words, although I am starting to question my pay rate of ~ $0.04/hour

 

Steve,
On my 82 2V fast idle cold start issue. I measured 12V on those 2 terminals when cold, just a few seconds engine start. idling at 2,500 rpm or so. Using fingers I pinched the right angle short hose and rpm dropped slightly. Then I turned engine off. Removed cold start valve. Inspected it and it seemed fine. I"sucked" into the small diameter orifice to simulate vaccum and the valve started to close, so the diaphragm and the lever turned fine, and I was able to see the orifice closing as the valve closed slowly. Lubricated the mechanical parts lightly and re-installed it.
Inserted a rubber "restrictor" into the hose, effectively reducing the cross section to 1/2 of the original passage.
Then turned the engine on again, and while engine was idling at +/- 1,800 rpm I slightly pulled on the level behind the valve, trying to "help" it close and the valve all the sudden came in and close the air passage, bringing rpm down to 1,000 or so.
In conclusion, I think the valve may have been stuck somehow. I also looked for leaks on the small dia hose from to valve to the block above and hose was fine. thanks.