308 fuel tank bridge hose

Here you go dude, a reprint:

308gtb carb hose lengths

These hose sizes and lengths are from a 1980 Euro GTB, so your mileage may very. I did the whole changing of hoses thing a few years ago. It wasn't too bad. The larger fuels lines were not fun as well as the long coolant lines to the front of the car.

Coolant drivers side heat exchanger inside to T 1/2" 16"
Coolant heat control valve ti T 5/8" 6.5"
Coolant pass side heat exhanger inside to T 1/2" 36"
Coolant engine to heater switch 5/8" 131"
Coolant pass side heat exchanger outside to return T 1/2" 29"
Coolant driver side outside heat exchanger to return T 1/2" 27"
Coolant return T to large line to radiator 5/8" 72"
Coolant exspanion tank to water pump 3/4" 20"
Coolant exspanion tank to water pump 3/8" 20"
Coolant 1.5 couplers on hard lines/water pump/ etc. 1 1/2" 3-5"x 9 pieces
Coolant 1.5 90 degree bend on radator drivers side top 1 1/2" NA
Vacuume engine to one way valve 1/2" 9"
Vacuume one way valve to brake booster 1/2" 132"
AC dryer to exspansion valve 5/16" 8"
AC condencer to dryer 5/16" 21"
AC compressor to exspansion valve 1/2" 112"
AC compressor to condenser 13/32" 134"
Fuel pass side carbs front to back 5/16" 6"
Fuel drivers side carbs front to back 5/16" 3"
Fuel drivers side back carb to pass side back carb 5/16" 13"
Fuel fuel pump to drivers side front carb 5/16" 58"
Fuel return line from pass side front carb to pass tank 1/4" 21"
Fuel fuel pump to filter 5/16" 12"
Fuel fuel tank to pump 5/16" 8"
Fuel fuel filler to tank crossover hard line 5/8" 10"
Fuel drivers side tank to crossover hard line 5/8" 5"
Fuel pass side tank to crossover hard line 5/8" 5"
Washer from windshield washer tank to splitter 3/32"? 64"
Washer from splitter to drivers side nozzel 7/64"? 11"
Washer from splitter to pass side nozzel 7/64"? 14"
Emisions coupler on valve cover breathers 3/4" 2"x 2 pieces
Emisions dry sump tank to valve breathers 3/4" ?
Emisions dry sump tank to air box 3/4" ?
Emisions transmition vent line 15/32" 45

Chris
80 308 gtb Euro
308 series fuel filler hose and clamps

NAPA PN# 1055,
Marmon Clamps #705-1531

Don't forget the little evaporative hoses, mine looked ratty but leaked badly, especially on hard turns or parked on a slope.

best,
chris 77 308 usa gtb

p.s. I used 300 psi rated hose for all of the vent and gas lines from the tank on up to all of the carbs, cheap insurance.

hth.chris

 

Ah ! I asked pretty much this same question on another thread a few days back. Thanks

Are those inside or outside diameter sizes ?
Are the fuel hoses just plain old cloth braided fuel hose ? Nothing special ?

 

Do a search, but IIRC, I think some are using SS braided hose from Summit (company here in US, www.summitracing.com) as a replacement with just normal hose clamps.

My stock ones are still in decent shape, so no firsthand, just a heads up.

 

Are these the hoses you are asking about? This is from a 308 QV, so a carb 308 could be very different. Mine were from T. Rutlands and called cavis-benz or something like that. Not very expensive either.

The old ones had turned yellow/brown in 20 years.
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Advice needed:
I had what I think is an A/C hose burst today on my 1977 308 GTB USA model.

It's a short hose,about 6-8" right up against the passenger-side firewall, near the gas tank. Connects on both ends to hard lines with clamps.

There's green dye right there on the firewall so I know it's gotta be a A/C hose. When I had the system charged recently my mechanic added that dye. When it burst, a "gassy" hiss eminated from behind the passenger side rear glass. I could see the vapor. It took about 1-2 minutes to empty completely. The leak appears to be right at the lower clamp-it's damp.

Did the search thing, found this thread, and Chris Morse's post, but didn't see this hose listed. I'd like to find a new hose somewhere other than Ferrari of Houston, if possible.

Can anybody post the specs of this little hose?

 

DO NOT use the cloth braided stuff. Use modern plain old rubber fuel hose. The braided stuff hides cracks and potential leaks as it ages. An article in Forza a few years ago strongly suggested staying away from braided anything on the hoses and just using good old fashoined rubber fuel-rated hose.

Birdman

 

Birdman,
Please check out my post #7. Do you have any idea the specs on this hose?

Thanks,
Greg
fellow 77 308 owner....

 

contenintal (sp?) makes the metric hose but is still the braided variety. standard hose sizes fit but i wouldn't use them as it's just off enough. personal choice. any BMW/Benz shop should be able to source metric fuel hose. i know BMW has upgraded thier hose to a copper inner mesh but boy howdy $$$$. this ofcourse is for the FI high pressure lines.

the filler neck is the hardest as it's over 2" dia. i had to source that from lyle.

 

are you sure it's A/C? the pressure the system operates under would make it nearly impossible to use clamps. the're usually special ends that thread to pipe.

 

Hey Greg,
Sounds for sure like one of your AC lines let loose. According to Chris' list above it has to be one of these:

AC compressor to exspansion valve 1/2" 112"
AC compressor to condenser 13/32" 134"

Pull the wheel well and figure out which one.

Incidentally, the AC does operate at a high pressure but I have seen people splice AC lines with a brass coupling and two hose clamps just fine. Verell will probably back me up on this one. We just discussed it a few days ago.

Just remember that if the system has been exposed to the elements you will need to at the minimum draw a complete vacuum on the AC system for a couple hours before refilling it to get all the moisture out of the drier. It will be saturated.

As for metric versus imperial hoses....I don't know about the HP hoses in an injected car, but on a carb car the imperial hose that you get in standard fractional sizes at NAPA is perfect for the carb car. Chris's sizes are spot on with what I remember using.

Best,
Birdman

 

wow, clamps on A/C lines. didn't think it was possible. i'm sure for vent lines and non pressure ones the imperial will work fine. but any high pressure hose, i'd prefer the right size.

 

Thanks guys. It's gotta be an A/C hose, because it expelled gas, and left that green dye on the firewall. No leaking fluid.

It's a short little thing, tucked waaayy back right on top of the passenger-side fuel tank.

It for sure has little hose clamps on either ends, at least the bottom side for sure.. I'll verify that tomorrow--car is in shop right now for other reasons... (long story--involves body work )

Does anybody know the ID specs on this hose? It can't be one of the long ones to the front Chris lists--this thing is less than a foot long...


Thanks,
Greg
77 308

 

The question of the thread is the cross connect hose on the BOTTOM of the car between the tanks?

It's metal tube with rubber coupling connections, IIRC?

Match it up at metric car dealer or check out the semi truck places like Peterbuilt. Anyone know the diameter?


I don't think stainless braid buys you anything unless you spring for the proper termination clamps/fittings.

 

Greg 328 Carr Auto Parts on Old Hempstead Highway...

Do you know them?

 

Yes, I bought my Sanden rotary compressor from him.

The hose that burst I think is OE.....

Greg

 

They can make it, you have to press those fittings on..........actually a Parts store may be able to as well, it's standard procedure...

 

Yeah, these sound like the short (about 4") rubber hoses that attach from the tanks to the metal crossover pipe that runs under the engine. I replaced these on my car 2 years ago. They are an unusual metric diameter (I forget exactly what), and I finally ended up buying them from Ferrari for $65 a piece! I tried everywhere, including the rubber hose manufacturers. Do not be tempted to try to make a non-fuel specific hose work, you'll end up with a fire eventually. Good luck! -m

 

Thanks Matt, but my hose sprayed freon gas when it burst, not fuel. Could this be the same one?


Greg

 

Yours is A/C, I was actually answering the original question by maurice70, since I had trouble finding the fuel hoses too!

 

Sorry Matt...


OK, update: I was wrong on my initial impression (no big surprise)!

The burst hose is my LONG hi-pressure A/C hose, running from the compressor to the front of the car. I think it the high-pressure, it's the one on top. Of course, I've swapped my OEM York compressor to a Sanden rotary, so I don't really know if it's the hi-or-low pressure hose. The fittings may be arranged differently....

I could feel a hole on the bottom edge, near the compressor-side fitting.

Wonder why it burst there, and not somewhere along the middle, hidden from inspection??

Does the low-pressure hose ever burst, or is it only the high-pressure one that tends to burst under pressure?

Somebody said an easier way to replace the hose is to pull the new one into place by attaching it to the old one and pulling it through. Sounds logical, but then I'll have to press the fittings on after it's in place.

Ideas?

Greg

 

No problem Greg, reading back I see how I kinda switched subjects on ya!

Makes sense that it would break at the fitting where the flexible hose meets the inflexible fitting. You would have to have luck like mine to have it break in the middle!

Seems like you should be able to pull that hose through with the fittings on... Maybe pull a wire through with the old hose, and pull the new one through with the wire. Good luck! -m

 

Your "wire" idea is a good one; it'll let me measure the old hose, still leaving a "pull-through" method.

Thanks,
Greg

 

do a search for a/c hose replacement...it's been written up a few times.

The short version is:
- drain gas (using the plug in the crosspipe is probably not the easiest way)
- remove the gas tank
- remove front wheel and panels in well
- doscinnect hose at front
- cut the hose at the rear (so you don't have to pull fitting through) and put rope through a hole made in the cut end then pull hose/rope out from front
- take hose pieces to radiator shop to get new hose made
- tie rope end to fitting and push/pull new hose in from rear (getting the fitting to "turn the corner" is the tricky part)
- reconnect hose ends with new lubed o-rings
- replace gas tank and other bits
- vaccuum the system and verify it's sealed
- replace freon
- head for the coast where it's cooler so the a/c is actually effective

I would guess that almost all 3x8 cars have holes being rubbed into the a/c lines. Ferrari eventually wrapped them in foam to cushion, but that foam is likely disintegrated by now. You really want to stick a hunk of sacrificial hose around the a/c hose...let the gas tank and frame chew into that instead. High density pipe foam works too, but it will deteriorate faster.

oh yeah, the original thread question was crosspipe hose ID. 1-3/8" works.