308 GTSi QV K-jetronic problems | FerrariChat

308 GTSi QV K-jetronic problems

Discussion in '308/328' started by Andretti Molletti, Jun 4, 2021.

Tags:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Page 1 of 2
  1. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #1 Andretti Molletti, Jun 4, 2021
    Hi guys, I have a problem with my K-jetronic and can't solve it. I'm dutch but in the dutch part there is not much technical knowledge so I try it here. I bought the car that had stood still for a few years and didn't run anymore.
    I did things like distribution and so on.
    Problem is that I repaired the CIS and the WUR with new seal kits and now
    I'm still trying to find out whats wrong. (nothing changed)
    Car is a Ferrari 308 GTSi QV (USA) and the system is not original
    anymore (injector/frequency thing to obtain lambda=1 is removed)
    The car starts cold and I measure a controle pressure of 1.5bar (between top of
    the CIS and WUR. But when it idles and the temp rises it stalls and
    is impossible to start.
    I also measure with an wide band in the exhaust and that voltage is a little
    bit low so I guess that it is to rich.
    Also switched off it doesn't hold the pressure, it immediately drops to
    almost 0 bar. no external leaks.
    When I run the fuel pump (engine off) the fuel pressure gets up to 4 bar
    and then instantly drops to 1.5.. seems something pops open.. then it
    can be started (cold)
    When engine is hot the pressure is about 4 bar (That should be lean
    but I see rich on the wide band.. that's confusing me)
    4 bar is obtained because I opened the WUR and the stem with the
    Bi-metal I pushed it outwards the housing to obtain more pressure
    (thats why I have 4 bar)... later I gave it a small hit with hammer
    and have around 3.6 Bar ... still the engine stalls.. (I also added a
    small ring on the system pressure regulator to try, but that didn't
    change the 1.5 bar??)
    So short:
    Cold: engine off/pump on: rises to 4 bar ..pop... 1,5bar>>> engine
    starts.. runs... warming up it stalls (lets say 2,5 bar.. ) probably
    to rich?
    Warm: Engine off/Pump on: system pressure around 3,6bar
    Pump off then it doesn't hold pressure
    ( for the records: I put 8 new Bosch injectors in it and a new pump) Max
    pump pressure is >5 bar
    Thanks in advance


    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
    Hydroxide1 likes this.
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,147
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, Jun 4, 2021
    This is not a good thing to do. If you removed the frequency valve and blocked the lines = same as an always closed frequency valve = raises the lower chamber pressure to a fixed un-nominal high value, and eliminates the frequency valve being able to add enrichment for cold starting and large throttle opening operation. If you removed the frequency valve and connected the two lines together = same as an always open frequency valve = lowers the lower chamber pressure to a fixed un-nominal low value, and eliminates the frequency valve being able to add enrichment for cold starting and large throttle opening operation. You'd be better off getting a euro K-Jet without Lambda fuel distributor and the corresponding WUR (that senses intake manifold vacuum to add enrichment) -- i.e., duplicating the euro K-Jet without Lambda system. Do you have a copy of Service Bulletin 10-13 that describes how the US version K-Jet with Lambda system works? If not you can get a copy here:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/hk5gupwre678a5q/Service%20Bulletin%2010-13%20Bosch%20K-Jet%20with%20Lambda.pdf?dl=0

    Indicates that you don't have a check valve present on the outlet of the pump (or the check valve is bad). There are two CIS pumps -- an older style with a built-in check valve, and a newer style with a screw-in check valve. Almost unfortunately, if you take the newer style pump with the screw-in check valve, and remove the check valve, then the plumbing for the older style pump will fit -- but no check valve is present. Can you post a photo of your new fuel pump and plumbing?
     
    Andretti Molletti likes this.
  3. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #3 Andretti Molletti, Jun 5, 2021
    Thank you very much for your help Steve!
    Reading your answer I think the CIS is EU. I compared it with a friends EU specs 308. (not the numbers .. stupid) But all the lines were the same. The number I got is a 0438100034. I thought it was the same unit as USA specs, only with an additioneel frequency valve (FV).
    But it did run for 15 years or so with the former owner. (even the connector of the FFV was connected to the pump switch in the cis and the pump switch was disconnected...so it runned for 15 yrs :p)
    I do have a WUR with a vacuum line, so that makes me thinking the EU conversion is done already..
    The Service bulletin is exactly the sort of information I'm missing so thanks a lot!!! I really appreciate that!
    Going to read it today and take pictures of my cis and WUR
    About the pump...
    Check valve is the one way valve? I thought that every pump had it... I will check it out, because the last thing the former owner did was changing the pump.
    From 0 580 254 956 to 0 580 464 125. As far as I can find on the web thats a correct replacement. The max pump pressure is above 5-6 bar so that will be ok.

    thank you so much for your answer, I have some more things to figure out !
     
  4. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #4 Andretti Molletti, Jun 5, 2021
    Didn't measure the Primary pressure until now.
    All measurements cold engine/ pump switch used and no engine running.

    Primary Pressure:
    Measured in the line between pump and CIS: 5.2 Bar. Seems to be ok!
    Didn't trust the Schräder valves (the keep the pressure in the gauge lines) si took them out:
    Now: Measured in the line between pump and CIS: 3.5 Bar?? Also takes 10 sec to rise till 3.5 Bar?

    Max Pump pressure:
    Closed the valve to the CIS and then got max pump pressure: 9.5 Bar.. hearing the max pressure valve ticking in the pump.
    Same situation, putting pump off: Pressure drops slowly in minutes towards zero. Not Ideal, but not the cause off my problem.

    WUR measurement: (connector off!)
    Takes 15 sec to climb to 3.6 bar and then plop... it drops to 1.6Bar .. Tried several times but sometimes it stays 3.5 bar.. cant hear or feel where the "plop" is coming from... Must be some valve that stucks sometimes.....Logical thinking says it must be the WUR itself or .. ??

    So I have to fix my Primary fuel Circuit first... put a shim under the spring I suppose. (to get it to 4.7Bar (EU specs)
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,147
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #5 Steve Magnusson, Jun 5, 2021
    That's good that you have the 0438100034 fuel distributor because it would be near impossible to take the US K-Jet with Lambda system, remove the frequency valve, and get good operation IMO. US 308QV came in two different configurations:

    Model Year 1983: K-Jet without Lambda, uses the 0438100034 fuel distributor (silver), does not have a frequency valve, and uses the WUR 0438140083 (or 0438140116) that senses intake manifold vacuum.

    Model Year 1984-1985: K-Jet with Lambda, uses the 0438100139 fuel distributor (black), does have a frequency valve, and uses the WUR 0438140132 that senses atmospheric pressure.

    Have you ever decoded your VIN to determine the US model year of your 308QV?

    If you do have the 0438100034 (silver) fuel distributor, you should use the 281/83 Mondial 8/QV WSM as the reference for how the injection system works (not Service Bulletin 10-13). You can get a copy of the 281/83 Mondial 8/QV WSM here:

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/z99soo68ny9n2qa/Mondial8qv_workshop_281-83.pdf?dl=0

    I don't recognize either of those Bosch part numbers, but there are many Bosch CIS pumps that are very similar so could be a reasonable substitution. However, they definitely come in two distinct types:

    This is the early design CIS pump with the check valve being non-replaceable. Note the long fixed outlet snout. It uses a threaded fitting to connect the output line:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login


    This is the later design CIS pump with the replaceable check valve. It uses a banjo fitting to connect the output line:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    As I mentioned, if the check valve is removed from the later design pump, it is possible to (wrongly) connect the threaded fitting output line from the early design -- but this leaves you with no check valve at all. To use the later design pump on a car that has the plumbing for the early design pump, the output line has to be changed to one with a banjo fitting (so the replaceable check valve can be left in place). This is not an easy plumbing change so better to buy an early design pump for a car with the early design output line (or a later design pump for a car with the later design output line with the banjo fitting).
     
    Andretti Molletti likes this.
  6. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #6 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
    You're gold for me Steve!
    I didn't know that part about the frequency valve, so I double checked and I have an EU K-jetronic (ending 34) same as mercedes 450 etc. Also the Vacuum on the WUR.
    I again repeated my measurements and found that the were not consequent... sometimes system pressure 3.5 bar.. then 5,3bar.
    WUR pressure took 15 sec to build up to 3,8 Bar (Cold) and sometimes...PLOP it drops to 1.6 bar
    So I decided to take out the pump and have a look..
    The former owner just putted a new one in... and thats where another problem started. Always measure everything before dismantling: 7Volt over the pump (fully loaded!! 9 bar) Minus or plus? >> Plus battery plus pump 5V! minus batt - minus pump 0 volt.
    The M5 cable eye ( sorry for my stupid English) wass not clamped with a torque vice or whatever you call it.. with a cheap wallmart thing.. so the red wire dropped out without effort :(
    Is that the problem? No.... Also> I dismantled the pump and the Accumulator.. and then... Fuel out of the vacuum hose.. is it vacuum? There is the rear exit of the accumulator and I have seen many without, so I search for the function. Its a return line to the tank... Could be fuel from overfill or whatever so I decided to put air pressure on the main inlet... 4 meters of gasoline out of the small vacuum pipe.. so the membrane inside the accumulator must leak!!
    I putted the old pump back and blinded the small exit on the accumulator. Today I hope to start the engine again and test. All pressures measure steady now and because of the spilled fuel I didnt start the engine. I still have to adjust the WUR (only 1 bar now) and then i can test again an will order an accumulator. The are not cheap for the simple thing.. 140 euro or so, but if thats the problem solver I'm a happy man!

    With your reply's I did a lot of thinking and so I finally could solve the problem. So thanks a lot Steve!
    This week a new membrane will arrive for the CIS ( K-jetronic) We call it "spider head" in Dutch
    The I think I will replace that 40 yrs old fuel lines at the pump with Banjo (is this AN 8??) two lines... pump>> accu and accu> fuel filter.
    Then its safe under the car again :)
     
    Brooklands likes this.
  7. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #7 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
    308 milano likes this.
  8. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #8 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
    Today it ran!
    I could warm it op and played with the AFR. The wide band sensor told me that AFR should stay 14 to run nice.
    The only problem now is that the WUR doesn't regulate the pressure :(
    I Measure 1,5-1,6 Bar constantly.. cold en hot... so it doesn't lean out the mixture. I can keep it running by adjusting but now I have to sort out why the pressure stays 1,6Bar. I played with the hight of the bi metal (pushing in and out the metal M6 on which its mounted, but that didn't change the pressure.
    So next thing is to find out what is wrong in the WUR I tried to close the return to exclude a faulty meter. when I did, the pressure rises and the engine stalls... so a higher pressure is leaning out .. thats good.. but now I have to find out whats wrong inside the WUR. (The Accumulator is still faulty but closed now, but I dont think that will influence the pressure)
    To be continued....
     
  9. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #9 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,147
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #10 Steve Magnusson, Jun 6, 2021
    That's good progress (and you did have a serious "euro" update if you have a frequency valve connector in the harness and the silver fuel distributor). The WUR has an internal valve that closes as it heats up which raises the control pressure. You could have some debris in that valve preventing it from closing, or the internal heater/forcer isn't working. Have you measured the resistance between the two terminals of the WUR (unplugged) -- should be some reasonable lowish value if the heating element is unbroken; a resistance measurement of infinite Ohms would be bad for the internal heater. Also, can you post the Bosch part number of your WUR for reference?
     
  11. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #11 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
    Thanks Steve, I checked the heater when it was open (i mounted a new metal membrane and O-ring....
    Electrical its working, I tested that.. I guess I have to open it again to look for debriss or other reasons why it isn't closing.
    getting tyred of that malfunctioning German crap in that beautifull Italian car :p :p
    I go to the garage for a picture/number
     
  12. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #12 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
  13. Kidasters

    Kidasters Formula Junior

    Oct 4, 2013
    546
    Houston, Tx
    Full Name:
    Ken
    #13 Kidasters, Jun 6, 2021
    trust me - in an older car, take Bosch over Lucas.

    I miss the Bosch that was at least built in Europe. Bosch coils built in Brazil are complete crap.

    Also - I don't even have a QV, but Steve is completely awesome, and so is this thread.
     
    Andretti Molletti likes this.
  14. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #14 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
    Thanks Kidaster! I was just joking!
    German stuff is quiet good!
    We say Lucas prince of darkness .. even in Holland !

    Reliability of Bosch is superb! But I also like the brilliance of Magneti Marelli !
    The changes are great that more and more people with K-jetronic (CIS) will get problems.. so the knowledge about the system should be passed on to the next generation ;)
     
    Kidasters likes this.
  15. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,147
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #15 Steve Magnusson, Jun 6, 2021
    Not really the right WUR -- that's the one for a K-Jet with Lambda system. The (single) air line connected to it (in the stock form) senses the atmospheric pressure upstream of the throttle plate, not the intake manifold pressure downstream of the throttle plate. The euro K-Jet without Lambda system uses WUR 0438140116 and has two air lines connected -- one connected upstream of the throttle plate and one connected downstream of the throttle plate. Obviously, it had/has been quasi-working for the prior owner, but it won't add enrichment when you blip the throttle. Note the two air lines connected to the euro WUR in the euro 308QV SPC figure -- one connected upstream of the throttle plate, and the other connected downstream of the throttle plate (although this figure is unclear for who is who IMO):

    https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/308-quattrovalvole/010-fuel-injection-system-fuel-distributors--lines

    Also, note in Fig 11 on page D13 of the Mondial 8/QV WSM how the two fittings for these air lines are on opposite sides of diaphragm 4. When a lesser pressure difference between these two air lines happens when the throttle is blipped = deflects diaphragm 4 downward = reduces the force holding WUR valve closed = opens the valve inside the WUR more = decreases the control pressure = adds richness.

    Obviously, not a super-critical issue, but something to consider.
     
    Andretti Molletti likes this.
  16. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,147
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #16 Steve Magnusson, Jun 6, 2021
    I need to correct my earlier post #15. I was wrongly thinking that you had removed all of the "US" items. If you still have the differential pressure switch -- item 18 in this SPC figure (and it's working):

    Image Unavailable, Please Login


    that will electrically "squirt" the cold start injector during throttle blips to add enrichment so having the ...132 WUR is the correct one for that situation. (Even though the differential pressure switch is shown on the SPC page for the air injection system, it has nothing to do with the air injection -- it just happens to use the same intake vacuum source as item 1.) If the differential pressure switch is removed, then the ...116 WUR (and adding it's additional plumbing) would be better.

    With the ...132 WUR and a working differential pressure switch, you will still be missing one other minor enrichment issue. The ...116 WUR naturally adds some extra enrichment during starting since the intake vacuum is very low. On US models using the ...132 WUR, the duty cycle to the frequency valve is increased (lowering the control pressure) during starting to add this extra enrichment. Since you no longer have a frequency valve (and with the ...132 WUR), you won't get any extra enrichment during starting, but didn't seem to be an issue for the PO so probably can be ignored.

    Sorry for the confusion.
     
    Andretti Molletti likes this.
  17. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #17 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
    No problem, because I don't have the pressure difference switch connected ;)
    I took out the Jetronic ecu. Several reasons, one of them it dripped oil.. someone had his spare pint of oil in te left rear ...upside down or so.
    I had to put de diode back as in the schematics.. don't know anymore why .. to separate +50 and +15 or so
    Anyway, the WUR.. I dismanteld the WUR again and found some things to discuss.
    The membrane is originaly 6/100mm and the Salvox.com imitation only 5/100mm.. also not RVS= stainless steel (magnet test). So I put my old membrane back, also because of the bigger dent in it ...
    Checked all the resustors and the worked. Pressed the mounting pin for the bi-metall back on the previous 31,9mm
    Checked the copper (don't know the english name) box for vacuum adjustment under water for leaks.
    Made sure the pin on the membrane is really on the membrane and put it back together.
    Testing.. still no higher system pressure after warming up (electrical) ...
    Thinking of the system pressure regulator now to check.. U cant make 3,6 bar if there is no 5,2 bar system pressure so going to check that again tomorrow.
    Pictures after this post
     
  18. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #18 Andretti Molletti, Jun 6, 2021
  19. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #19 Andretti Molletti, Jun 14, 2021
    Update,
    so it ran good enough (hot) to go to the APK (periodically safety test like MOT) .. they found a steering sleeve and handbrake issue, which I solved. The other day the 308 was tested ok!
    In the mean while I could drive and test, and with the Spartan 14.7 Wideband I could see the mixture. Still having problems with the regulator pressure I bought a second set of revision stuf in Germany. I did both the CIS and WUR again and found the WUR pressure didn't change. Long story short: I opened it several times and finally found out that the end of the pin shouldn't rest on the membrane. There was a smal plate missing (3mm round 1mm thick). I repaired that.. made the missing plate on my late and tried again... The pressure was after some efforts between 1 and 2,7 Bar.. not exactly but I took it for a testdrive.. After a while the engine didn't run fine till 3500RPM and higher the it would go like hell.. on the way back home the low revs started to lean out and pop and bangs in the exhaust said it was lean,.. wide band told me 3Volt so thats very lean... The trick with adjusting the fuel pressure in the WUR with the hight of the M6 is not the right one. The plate with the membrane should be changed in hight but the you really need a test bank or so..
    I'm in doubt... first I will search for an other WUR ... the other possibility is going to a specialized shop the repair and adjust the CIS and WUR... which will cost me about 750 Euro's...
    So I first wait for an other WUR to try and see what happens.
    Playing in mind to transform it to a programmable injection system. Because repairing for 750 euro is almost as high as the material costs of a injection system...
     
  20. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #20 Andretti Molletti, Jun 14, 2021
  21. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #21 Andretti Molletti, Jun 14, 2021
    Harry-SZ likes this.
  22. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #22 Andretti Molletti, Jun 16, 2021
    I have let it rest for a couple of days or so and think it over.
    according the pressures of the WUR in the manual (mondial) :
    System pressure is a nice 5,4 Bar
    Control pressure starts at 23 degrees Celcius at 0,9Bar
    rises after 10 minutes to 2,9 Bar

    0 438 140 .... The one with the vacuum connection should be between 2,7 and 3,1 Bar
    0 438 140 132 The one withOUT the vacuum connection should be between 3,3 and 3,7 Bar

    I now have 0 438 140 132 NO vacuum connection but I putted the vacuum hose to the housing ... so that will probb. the cause the engine is leaning out at idle / hot.
    I wil fix that as first fix.
    The second thing I can imagine is the biggest mistake I made with believing internet storys of people playing around with CIS. (adjusting by pressing the M6 bolt in or out)
    After a while, looking at the drawing of the WUR I realized its NOT the way to adjust the fuel press by adjusting the hight of the bi-metal.... the M6 bolt in the WUR.
    This bolt and part of the systems is the entire window of press variation. So in my case 0,9-3 bar. I have to lower the metal housing with the valve to obtain the starting press when cold (2 bar).
    I would appreciatie your view on this question Steve Magnusson
     
  23. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,147
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #23 Steve Magnusson, Jun 16, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2021
    Good.

    Yes, both values are too low, but the range (the difference between them) is OKish.

    Only when no vacuum is applied (it says "no vacuum connected", but what it should really say is "when there is no vacuum present on the connected vacuum line" -- i.e., at low RPM with large throttle opening) -- this shows the enrichment function for acceleration for this type of WUR. When the normal vacuum at idle is applied (510-550 mbar), the warm control pressure in that table on page D22 is 3.3-3.7 bar -- so very similar to the warm control pressure for the 0438140132 WUR (at 1 atmosphere pressure -- i.e., not at high elevation). Here are the specs for the 0438140132 WUR:

    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Correct. Connect the vacuum port on the 0438140132 WUR to the port upstream of the throttle plate. It should be sensing the atmospheric pressure of the air, not the vacuum inside the intake plenum.

    Correct. You need to move the bimetallic strip closer to the valve (holding the valve more closed) to make the cold control pressure higher, and the warm control pressure higher. If you are at sea level, the warm control pressure should be about 3.3-3.7 bar (if you are not at sea level, estimate you average atmospheric pressure at your elevation, and then use the warm control pressure graph posted above to set your warm control pressure target. 2 bar is in the right ballpark for the cold control pressure for 20 deg C at 1 atmosphere pressure --- again, use the cold control pressure graph for 0438140132 above for your specific atmospheric pressure and temperature conditions.

    The thing that you are still missing is having something for enrichment under acceleration. On the stock US K-Jet with Lambda system using the 0438140132 WUR:

    1. enrichment during cold acceleration is provided by the differential pressure valve sensing a rapid drop in vacuum and squirting the cold start injector, and

    2. enrichment during warm acceleration is provided by the WOT throttle microswitch telling the ECU to go open loop and increase the duty cycle of the frequency valve signal.

    Whereas, on the euro K-Jet without Lambda, both these enrichments are provided by the 0438140116 WUR. Maybe you can get by without those things enrichment things working, but you may need to change to the 0438140116 WUR (and and the extra vacuum plumbing). Please let us know how it turns out.
     
    QV308 and Andretti Molletti like this.
  24. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #24 Andretti Molletti, Jun 17, 2021
    Drilled a hole in the M6 bolt to get it up... so I can increase fuelpressure... also tried to lower the metal plate with the fuel connections a bit... whatever i did, I cannot get the pressure above 2,6-3 bar.. I think its leaking internal... I decided to send it to a professional rebuilder.. so I can concentrate on the return of the California tomorrow and let my hands rest for a while so the black nails will dissapear :p
     
  25. Andretti Molletti

    Andretti Molletti Formula Junior

    Sep 19, 2010
    345
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dré
    #25 Andretti Molletti, Jun 18, 2021
    308 milano likes this.
Page 1 of 2

Share This Page