The brake pulliies look great. Won't make the handbrake work but still..:-)
Just finished the setup of the engine speed trigger wheel.(60-2) It looks good and i calculated well as no need to modify the oil pump housing, there is enough space so the wheel turns freely Of course all parts been plated(black,silver ,yellow) ,and the full assy has been dynamic balanced too! Next i will make the bracket design for the hall sensor but will need some time as i'm focusing to the disassemby of the body work now so it can go to the metal worker and painter asap..... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Basicly it is custom for the 308. We design many engine parts so i have a huge selection of engine conversions made before like audi 5cyl alfa bmw M3 S14B23 through toyota 4age to vw 1.8L ......So it was not a big issue for me to make it . We made a cad drawing and then laser cut the wheel, after made a small lead to the ferrari wheel , so both are on the same center. Then the sensor wheel grind to the final dia and balanced......
really nice stuff,think you can ditch the accumulator w/efi,can we order these nice parts for our cars?
The plan is to keep the accumlator, some of the older efi cars had those too if i remember well from early 90' and late 80'. I think bmw e30 M3 for example. It takes out the vibration from the fuel system so you have a more constant fuel pressure.... If something needed just contact me...
i think in english , they are black/yellow/silver Zinc..... the yellow cad is not allowed here anymore as i know....
The 2 exhaust muffler support has been cleaned and reassembled: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Of course, but It needed several parts to make ,design and assemble! It took me many hours to get back them to life again too !!
Some more parts waiting to be installed. The engine is far from ready. But i hate when too much parts all over.. So time to time i but something together.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow, did you take the motor mounts apart? There's a lot of spring pressure in there I thought. How did you take them apart?
it is not a really big task, just put it in a big vise safely and drill out the spot welding, from the bottom with a spec drill. And only remove material from the upper sheet, so you can weld it back when it is put back together again. you may see the holes on the pics..
I think the burned resistors are not uncommon in the blowers, as it was the case in mine too. So i took them apart and repaired them. The hardest part was to take the 2 spring style fixers to remove and put back holding the wheels. I kept all parts they just cleaned and plated only the resistors and the cables are new I even glued the spal lebels back .... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
yes "easy" All parts i took apart looks like the car had very low kms but stood for a long time without moving , having only surface rust etc...
Looks great! So, how did you determine the actual resistor specification to replace it? Or are the cables available complete with the resistor? Also are you aware of hydrogen embrittlement? Comes when you electroplate, likely a problem with springs more than anything.
We make our wiring in house. My company makes race car engines,wiring looms,ecu programing etc ...it is a very simple task for us! We could measur the resistor as 1 of it was almost ok. (also the spes was visible) Regarding the hidro problem i don't care!!! It is better to remove the rust and plate it then leave it like that and wait the rust eat it+ looks much better! In 100 bolts,washers maybe 1 fails at the recommend torque when tightening so my experiences are not too bad..... Brackets small bolts, fixtures, small springs that like in the blower does not suffer too much as they has little force to handle.... Also the guys use the latest german tech so i'm not worried too much .....
Just asked the Engineer @ the plater company about hyrogen embrittlement, to be sure. He told me that they use some inhibitor or additive etc, so it is not an issue any more. They make heat treated bolts etc for huge car manufacturers too! They use this tech long time ago without problem.
Always good to hear! Worst effect would be on the springs. Only way to handle it in the old days was a heat treatment with some critical temps and times.
Just restored some parts too of the rear suspension, waiting for the new bushings of the coilovers : Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Question on the belt drive pulleys. On my '81 the part of the pulley that goes around the shaft, extends back much further than other model years. The pic above on Page 1, Post 12 seems to show this. My car did not have a washer between the drive gear and the outer bearing. Question is: "Should there be a washer there?"