308 high idle question, what is this part? (pics inside) | FerrariChat
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308 high idle question, what is this part? (pics inside)

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Dmctwelve, Jul 17, 2011.

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  1. Dmctwelve

    Dmctwelve Karting

    Jun 25, 2011
    55
    Mass
    #1 Dmctwelve, Jul 17, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2011
    Hi everyone, I am new to this forum and have a question about the idle on my 1980 308. In the pic shown you can see that that red wire is unhooked. If I hook it back up the idle will jump from 1k to 3100!! What is this part? Is it the problem? Or should I look elsewhere? Thanks in advance!!!

    Hmmm I can't get the pic to post here. Let me know if that link won't work...


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  2. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
    2,345
    #2 Paul_308, Jul 17, 2011
    Welcome to FChat.

    That is a photo of the cold idle electrovalve, there are several electrovalves on the 308 which convert an electrical signal to control vacuum device.

    Many FChatt'ers feel devices added to homologate a US car, like the cold idle circuit, can only detract from performance or looks. Read about the US cold idle circuit here: http://www.birdmanferrari.com/service/cold_start/cold_start.htm One doesn't need to fully strip the circuitry to disable it but merely restrict the air passage of the cold start air valve to get the cold idle speed to 1300 rpm or so.

    Attachments are added using the 'Manage Attachments' button below the edit window. Within the pop-up, use the Browse button to point to the file on your hd then the Upload key.

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  3. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
    2,345
    #3 Paul_308, Jul 17, 2011
    I should also mention that in the 1980 US 308s (I also have one), the ignition ECU and the dash light which indicates a cold engine, both get their voltage from being in series with two electrovalves, one being the cold start electrovalve. This 'cold' voltage is removed when the thermal switch beneath the expansion tank closes to ground when the engine warms up.

    If the cold engine dash light comes on fully when the engine is cold, the voltage is adequate to also signal the 'cold' condition to the ignition module. If the dash light doesn't light when the engine is cold, I'd recommend reconnecting the red wire and deal with bypassing the 3k cold start otherwise. FYI the 1980 Euro cars have no cold engine light or circuit.

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