Greetings everyone. Am hoping that someone can shed some light on an intermittent ignition key/lock issue I am having that began last week. Here is the background. '82 GTSi, original tumbler and key for ignition. Worn key but it seems to still be a good match for the tumbler. I had used some Wynn's Extend foaming spray and it loosened the ignition so that the key could turn. Thought the problem was solved.... When I put in the key and go to turn it, sometimes it turns immediately, other times I have to wiggle the locked wheel while putting the key in and out while gently trying to turn it to the run position. I am thinking that the steering lock pin is sticking and this is stopping the key from turning. When I do finally get the key turned and then shut it off and take out the key to try it again, I hear a solid snap or click and feel it through the wheel. Judging from the strength of the snapping sound I suspect that there is a spring mechanism inside the T-shaped ignition. My question is this: Is there a spring inside the locking mechanism that is connected to the ignition barrel and the steering column? (Part # 26 on the diagram.) I had read a post by rifledriver where he indicated that it was a fairly straightforward job to remove the ignition mechanism without having to remove the whole steering column. I would like to have an idea of what I am going to find inside part #26. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers-Colin Firth Image Unavailable, Please Login
Did you renew the crew 27 or open it? if she is just a little to long, she is blocking the lock lever. It was the reason on my Ignation look (same symptoms).
"Wafers" inside ignition lock tumbler may be worn. These are not shown in the drawing, they are tiny bits of metal that drop into the grooves in the key and release the lock bar inside the lock cylinder. Happens a lot on modern cars, esp. Saturn SL series for some reason. If this is the case, may need new lock cylinder, or if only one or two are worn, a lock smith may be able to remove the effected wafers, but then the lock is less secure.
The 308 uses rooftop shaped "pins" in vertical bores against the key. I would see if a locksmith 'reading' your worn key profile can cut a fresh one to work. Be very careful as the whole lock rod assembly is NLA and very expensive if it was. I guess you could source one from a salvage vendor, TRutlands or Ferrparts. I have had success pulling the ignition lock and taking the whole thing along with key to be rebuilt. It's obviously no fun to have the car immobilized when it finally fails. The other thing to know is that leaving the steering wheel anywhere but 'straght on centered" puts some bind onto the lock rod, and can "balk" the ignition key cylinder from turning.. HTH
Thanks BigTex. I have found that remembering to leave the wheel straight and not moving it when exiting the car does seem to reduce the issue of getting the key to turn the next time I tried it. Since you have had these ignitions rebuilt by a locksmith before, can you shed some light on what is inside the tube that connects the ignition barrel to the steering column? It sure feels like there is a spring in there that might be binding. Here is the post from rifledriver where Brian mentioned his technique for removing the ignition without removing the column. http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217900 Cheers-Colin Firth
Just a thought..agiain..If possible, K.I.S.S. on this first..the black plastic ingition module is probably the villain, here..it probably melted/ broken and morphed into a part-time work/non-work condiition..before you procceed with brain surgery on the lock mechanism....try an asperin..replace the module first($100USD)..you just might find that this is the solution..I have done this several times on my 1980 400i. It appears that the 308s ' mechanism is more difficult to remove, so, all the more reason to replace just the module first, because you're going to be doing it anyway. Again, just a thought. I hope that this is of some value. Jq.
