Good job with all the testing and legwork. I know you tried a bunch of different things so a summary of what you used in the end, along with source would be swell. Looking forward to doing this upgrade.
I've been testing different types of LED bulbs for the clock gauge, and that's the result, applicable to the other small gauges: if the LED bulb with front beam is too long the bulb smashes against the interior wall of the gauge and the light spread is practically zero. With a shorter front beam LED bulb the result is better, quite good, but with a flank beam LED bulb -with LED on both sides-the result is perfect. Check the image for the comparison. The side beam led bulb has been modified, eliminating 2 LED modules -out from 6-. And it works OK. Still testing. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes, the side mounted LED's are best for the background illumination. The 5 LED lamp is a bit too long (as we see from my previous posted depth chart). But I made a quick and simple sleeve-socket extension out of some 1/2" brass tubing I got from the local hobby shop (I keep an assortment of brass and stainless tubing around the shop for just these kinds of things). First, cut one LENGTHWISE slit off one end of a length of the tubing for about 1". Then at about 1/2" from the end, CROSSCUT another slit just past half way through the diameter. Make a third cut off at the 1" mark to detach your "new" sleeve extension from the length of tubing. Adjust the spread on each half "C" to fit snug to the socket and sleeve diameters to insure a good grip and ground connection. Snap ring pliers work great for this part. It took me 3 minutes to make. The brass seems to have enough "spring" in it to stay firm - and it won't rust. If I knew how to remove (electrically) the end LED from my 5 LED lamp assembly and still have it work I may modify the clock lamp later and remove my extension since taking out the clock is the easiest of all the gauges. My pictures show the sleeve extension mounted to the Fuel guage the example. BTW - the tubing cost $2 for the 12" piece Have fun! Bob Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks guys for this great progress! Locating suitable LEDs for an upgrade has been on my O2it list for a couple of years. Looks like you're well on the way to a solution!!! Bob, that mounting extension is a great idea! LEDs are current operated devices rathar than voltage. I suspect that those chips are constant current regulators rathar than voltage regulators, hence can handle variation in the number of LEDs in series that they can drive. They'll deliver a preset current over a wide range of input voltage, but will shut down when it gets too low. This accounts for your experience with the dimmer. BTW, how about trying green LEDs for the turn signals, the lens is going to dim a white bulbe by filtering out the other colors. Similarly, match LED colors to the amber, red, & green dash indicators for max. output.
Bob, You guys are great!!! I'm following this carefully as I wanted to do this before I stuff my interior back in the car. Having just had my clock appart, I can see why the top of the 5 LED array is not needed. Besides it's being too long, it would only shine right into the back of the clock mechanism disk at close range anyway. Given that, wouldn't Magnum's flank LED be a better choice for the clock. Don't get me wrong, I think your extension was a stroke of ingenuity!! Can't wait to have a final list of bulb type and quantity to do the whole cabin!! Rick
Anyone know the resistance of the dimmer? Id be interested to know what the max value of this pot can be. thanks, Aaron
Agreed! Re-reading this thread, there's been some good documentation here of a lot of trial-and-error experimental results. But, now that the LED experimental work is (presumably) done, it would be nice to have a posting which summarizes and documents the end results, to serve for posterity and for a quick and easy future search reference. Along with some overall "how-well-I-like-it-after-living-with-it" comments! Thanks - DM
Hi Aaron. If you're interested in a LED dimmer, I've found some interesting stuff for you: http://www.leds-buy.nl/incorportion-led-dimmer-p-994.html http://www.reuk.co.uk/LED-Dimmer-Circuit.htm http://www.opensourcepartners.nl/~costar/leddimmer/ http://www.alibaba.com/product/a1wele-11128272-10776919/LED_Dimmer_Luxeon_Dimming_Module.html http://web-ee.com/schematics/electro-optics/led-lamp-dimmer/ No affiliation, of course. Cheers
Finally, here it goes!!!!! A brief summary of the dash lights of the 308 QV US 1983, and the LED upgrade. Any feedback will be well received. I've compressed the images of the PDF file in order to downsize the document. Feel free to share this file with anyone. Enjoy Image Unavailable, Please Login
Amazing. Two questions. Mine is a 328 with Red light. Are there red light bulbs available? How do I take out the gauges? Regards, Stephen
Stephen. I don't have 328 experience, but for sure your dash lights are white. Some red plastic part in the gauges provide the red colour. So if you want to upgrade to LED, simply buy the white warm colour ones. I attach another old PDF file with explanations of how to dismantle the dash on a 308. Cheers Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for the additional info. Do I have to remove the steering wheel to do this job?. Can I do without the steering removal?. My dash board lights seem a bit dim. Do you think it needs bulb replacement, or a rheostat bypass wire.? Regards, Stephen
I pulled the instrument cluster on my '87 328 to replace my tachometer. Its very easy. Pull the steering wheel first. Its only 6 screws, takes 5 minutes and you will need the room to get the cluster past the dash pad. There are (4) lights, one at each corner of the cluster. On my US model 328 GTS, they are the heater fan lights at each end of the upper row, the "slow down" down light on the lower left and the "battery" light on the lower right. Carefully pull each light straight out until its hanging from its wire harness. There is more than enough wire for this. As each light comes out, you will need to tip it slightly as the bulb holders are attached at an angle. Easy though really. Each light is press fit into the hole in the panel. I used a plastic wedge I had in my tool box for interior panel removal to gently wedge the light out of the dash until I could grab it with my fingers. They weren't that tight. You just want to use some caution not to scratch anything. The first one I did, I added a piece of masking tape next to the light to have something to pry on but on the other lights I didn't bother as they weren't that tight or hard to get out. There is a Phillips head screw accessible through each hole. The heads are more than an inch back inside the panel and attach a clip from the panel to the dash. Back them all the way out. The top two are self tapping metal screws and the bottom two are machine screws. You will probably drop them in behind the panel but they are easy to get out once you slide the panel out of the dash. (there is a closed in boxed recess behind the panel) Once the screws are out, the panel comes out easily. You may need to stick your fingers in the open lamp holes to grab on and give a wiggle and tug to get it started. The wire harness was long enough to pull the panel all the way out and reverse it for access. Installation is the reverse. Pretty simple all in all. I taped the screws to the driver when I put them back in so as not have to take it all apart if (when?) I dropped the last one back behind everything and had to start over. I added a 1" spacer to the steering wheel when I reinstalled it. My fingers would hit the dash it was so close. I am 6' 1" so the seat is as far back as it goes and tilted all the way against the fire wall when the roof is on. My arms are long enough to reach without the spacer but it is a hell of a lot more comfortable with the spacer in. I think I have some photos if anyone is interested.
Can someone tell me if the LED tach lighting improvement was worth it? I've previously bypassed the rheostat & installed the better incandescent lamps with very little improvement. The picture still shows a dark tach with the needle hard to see with LEDs. Is this just a picture problem or........ ps Great write up CHAIRPILOT, thanks
Gentlemen, Now THAT is how to write an upgrade tutorial !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Unbelievable work, Antonio!!!!!!
Of course Higgins, no problem! ;-) <sorry, had to> ;-) Glad that all of you guys enjoy with the work. Cheers
Billy. The tacho lighting is OK with the side beam LED bulbs -not shown in the photos; image taken with too large LED bulbs in-, or with a very short LED bulb. The speedometer lighting is awesome, believe me. Also the little gauges lighting has improved a lot with LED. It worths it! Cheers