I made a quick post in the running "What have you done today" Thread , but decided I'd include a few pics of the process I went through. Posts similar to this gave me lots of great ideas on how to approach it, so I thought I'd add my experience. Maybe it will be of help to the next owner that wants to go this route. Background: The car is a 1985 QV Euro. Aftermarket radiator, AC converted to R134. Fans were original-style 4-blade units. Why I did this: I live in Florida, and the summer months are quite hot. I've always felt the stock fans were fighting a losing battle to keep the temp below 200F. Though recharging my AC did restore it to functioning status, it was blowing air that was more cool than cold. Finally, the right side fan has been making sort of a clattering sound for the past few months which told me I needed to replace it in some manner. Many owners have had no problems with their fans, and that's nice to hear. But for those who say "If stock fans weren't good enough, Ferrari would not have used them".... I will point to the OEM fusebox as an example of things Ferrari did in 1985 that could have been done better in 1985. Further, the average summer temp at the Ferrari factory is around 80-85F, while in Florida it can easily approach 95-100F. So here we go. Tools: Sockets, ratchet with extension, wrenches, a rubber mallet, rivet gun, screwdrivers, an electric drill and a Dremel w/cutting wheel. Step 1: Disconnect the main power. Remove the grill, driving lights, bumper, lower spoiler. The first 3 items are relatively quick. Removing the spoiler took. A. Long. Time. Remove the front wheel liners, and the headlight grills. You'll need the access those holes give you. You might also want to remove your front rims, but I didn't need to. Getting the bolts out around the perimeter of the spoiler takes the longest; it's not easy getting both hands on both the top and bottom of the bolts at the same time. Consider having a helper. There are also some self-tapping screws under the car (in front of the metal access panel), pull those out as well. When the spoiler is removed (and reinstalled), note that it fits behind parts of the frame. You'll have to lift it slightly to get over the frame tubes. Do it slowly. Careful use of a rubber mallet wrapped in a towel may assist in bumping it forward (soft taps). But if it won't move, don't force it. It's probably not moving because it's stuck on the frame. Do not come to Florida to yell at me if you hammer too hard or manhandle it and crack it. I told you to be careful. Image Unavailable, Please Login Step 2: Remove the fans. They each have a bolt easily removed, then you spread the metal clamps apart and they drop out complete with their original 35 yr old rust spots. Disconnect the 2 wires from each. Now is a great time to grab a shop vac and clean out all the dirt and crap from the spoiler, back in the fenders, etc. Clean the areas where the spoiler and body meet, get all the dirt off so that it's clean and makes it easier to slide back together. Pull the rubber sheaths off the old fans, and use some SimpleGreen or Dawn or whatever you prefer to get them clean. These are reused. Here we have the old fan, and new fan. Image Unavailable, Please Login The new fan is a Spal 10" pusher, model 30100320. CFM is 700-800. Amp use (per fan) is around 7-8 amps (sorry, I don't know the specs of the original fans.) Spal does offer higher output fans than this, in 10" and even larger sizes. I didn't go that route because I wanted the lower power usage, less noise than those fans, and felt 800 CFM would be sufficient for my needs. Price was about $80/each. I got them from Summit Racing . The free shipping was only about 2-3 days, btw. Step 3: Now we're on to the fun part: make all this stuff work together. I spent a lot of time looking at how other people mount their aftermarket fans. Some fabricate nifty brackets, some use zip ties, some use those rods that poke through the fins. My favorite was one that retains use of the original mounting brackets, that I've seen a couple of other 308 users do. Not because "it keeps the car original", but because I cannot weld and fabricate large shrouds. The other 2 options seem hack-ish to me. Plus, I didn't want to involve a grinder and remove the old brackets, or weld mounting studs to the radiator. I took the 4 bolts out of the new Spal fan - they're those small black ones you see in the pic, around the back plate. Took a trip to Home Depot, and bought several 2x2" brackets. Using the new screws as reference, I bought longer versions. Around .75" length, I believe. The old fans were disassembled. First, the blade is removed by inserting a small screwdriver into the hole behind the blade and removing the retention screw. Next, remove the 2 long bolts from the back of the housing. It slides apart easily. Keep the back part of the housing. Save the blades and rotor assemblies so that you can sell ... err... list them on eBay for $400 ea. No pics of this next bit, sorry... Step 4: The old housing was placed (not attached, just placed) on the back of the new fan, dead center. The brackets were also placed, so that I could mark how long they need to be. I also marked where holes would be drilled in the old fan housing. I put the brackets in a bench vise, and cut them with the dremel. Here you get an idea of the brackets before and after cutting. The holes came with the brackets; I didn't pay extra for those. Note that one side of the bracket is longer than the other, because the brackets will fit nicely with the fan backplate if you measure/cut correctly. This was all mocked up on the kitchen counter (sorry about the mess, babe) before ANY destruction, so that cutting and drilling and cursing and redo was minimized. Image Unavailable, Please Login Lots of sandpaper on the old fan housing cleaned up the rust, followed by degreasing with brake cleaner. Old fan housing was drilled in 4 places, 90 degrees from each other, using the mockup (make a mockup!) I'd done earlier Then they were painted with a few light coats of Rustoleum rust-removing-converting-or-something flat black paint. Brackets were also painted. Step 5: Next morning (hey, paint needs time to dry and cure) - It's Reassembly Day! Placed the old/new housing on the back of the fan. Brackets were screwed into the fan's plastic guard (where the old ones went) - not completely tightened yet, but close. Housing inserted into place. The top holes were fasted to the housing with 4 rivets. Why rivets? They look nice, and I wanted the connections as flush as possible. They also won't vibrate loose, and I won't need them to come apart in the future, even if I had to replace these 2 fans (remember, we're using screws on the bottom of the brackets). Make sure the rivets easily fit into the brackets and the housing. My brackets needed a slight brush with the drill to have the rivets work. Once riveted, I tightened down the retention screws into the fan. Don't overdo it... it's plastic and doesn't need to hold 100 lbs of lateral force. Here's the complete assembly: Image Unavailable, Please Login One my car, the wires magically matched the colors of the new fan wires. You can connect the new wires in any way you like, as long as it doesn't involve a few feet of electrical tape. Seriously - clip the old wires and install a new receiver, or use nice spades, or SOMETHING that works well and looks clean and professional. Yes, it takes more time to do wire connections correctly. Take the time, else some person in the future will be looking at your crappy wiring and wondering who the idiot was. The rubber sheaths are wrapped around the old housing, and retain their job of cushioning the housing inside the bracket. Slide the fans into place, and voila. Image Unavailable, Please Login After this pic was taken, I tested the fans. Once confirmed working, I properly affixed the cables to upper crossframe with 2-3 nicely trimmed zip ties. All that is left is reattaching all the body parts. Again, a helper is helpful. Final Results: My initial test drive was last Saturday. Weather was 96F, and we took a drive across town with the top on and the AC blasting. For the first time ever, we were actually comfortable in the car in the summer heat. The car's temp gauge, once completely hot and under full load, was hovering around the 200-208F mark. So I estimate these new fans have dropped the coolant temp by at least 12-20F degrees, and of course the AC is blowing noticeably colder. Definitely worth the 7 hours of work, and $172 in parts. ]I'd like to once again offer my thanks to forum members who have come before me, and shared all their pics and modification tips that made this job far easier to approach.