308 QV Air Pump

Steve, first, you need to fish that piece of set screw or pin out of there before you loose it.
Second, is remove air pump so you can inspect it carefully and see what broke.

 

Just looked at my '83 & it's a cotter pin. I suspect mine isn't native. Can't say I've seen another cotter pin on the car anywhere.

 

OK -- I'm lost The air injection pump on a stock '83 US 308QV is driven off the clutch end of the engine by a camshaft pulley. Do you have a euro 308QV that had an air pump added being driven at the crankshaft snout end?

 

Looking at the '83 Parts manual, Tav 9, part #45/66 - They are called a "plug". looks like a rolled pin to me.
#45: 14160070
#66: 13904770
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Supposed to be a roll pin.

 

Never needed to, they were really cheap from Ferrari but they have now been superseded to the wrong part. FWIW it looks as though the parts book is wrong and right now I do not have access to my book with all the parts man notes about incorrect info.

Outer end of shaft had roll pin, inner end had solid steel pin. Parts book shows solid and roll pin at outer end and I do not believe that is possible and it really isn't necessary.

 

Reminds me of the Harry Potter Movie "The half-blood Prince" where the skool's potions books were wrong and caused havoc. Harry had a copy with hand-written notes & corrections that worked.....magic.

 

While messing with my ignition wires it took me about an hour to get the rear distributor cap off the first time because of the contorted route the wires have to make around that pump. The boot cover was really stiff and there was no room to slide it down the harness to get on the lower mounting screw. Now that I've had it off and back on and back off again I can do it in about three minutes but I'm seriously considering just pulling that air pump off and keeping it in a box until I need a smog test in two years. I don't suppose I'd be the first to have done that.

My '91 Motronic injected Alfas don't even have air pumps. My '01 Land Rover has an electric pump that only runs for 90 seconds after a cold start. As far as I understand it the air injection is only needed to quickly get the Cats up to operating temperature on cold start, the rest of the time it's just running for no purpose.

Anyway if I pull mine today or tomorrow I'll have a look at that pin, mine's an '83.

EDIT: just looked at mine, it has a solid steel pin at the outer end of the pulley (not a roll pin)

 

Nope, not at all. But it is a GM pump, so they are available for now. The engine compartment looks better with the smog pump in a box on the shelf.

Yup, mine too.

 

Is this pin not the shear pin should the air pump seize?

 

No.

 

The injectors are in the head above the exhaust valves and disabling or removing the air pump alone will have no effect. In fact, when the engine is at operating temperature the diverter valve sends all of the air to the Cats anyway. There are also three check valves so there is really no need to do anything else unless your intent is to completely and permanently remove the entire system in which case you would want to replace the injectors with plugs.

So, in your case at least, there's no danger in just running with the belt off. In my case I need that system fully functional for biennial smog inspections and I'd rather keep my shiny new air pump in a nice dry box in the garage until it's needed. In fact I might even do that with the Cats just to keep them "fresh" for showtime.

Of course this is completely illegal so I'm just joking, not really gonna do any of that

 

I can't imagine the parasitic load of the air pump being more that 1/2 hp, but maybe someone else is better at imagining than me.

 

I think the biggest advantage to leaving the belt off is avoiding the fear that if the air pump seizes it will ruin your engine. The '83 tries to avoid this with the shear pin.

But yeah, if you think you need the 0.5 (or even 10 for arguments sake) HP it takes to run the air pump, you have the wrong car altogether.

 

I don't know how much power the air pump takes, as noted it's probably insignificant. In my case however I need that air pump to pass California smog every two years so, even though they are available, it's advantageous for me to keep it in a nice dry box in the garage until needed for that purpose rather than to leave it idely mounted in the engine compartment. It was also so much easier to install my new ignition wires with it out of the way. Unfortunately, because the drive pulley remains on the exhaust cam, I still have to route the wires forward and over the distributor which is kind of a pita but it's still much easier.

If you don't need the air pump and decide to remove the belt you may as well just remove the whole pump, it takes up a lot of room back up there.

 

Regardless of what you decide I wouldn't hook your air pump back up until you have determined why the shear pin broke or went missing in the first place.

 

That was not the shear pin. It fell out, it was wrong or incorrectly installed. I am quite familiar with the air pump drive on the 83 USA V8 and have already said it was not the shear pin. Prior to offering advice people should really have some product familiarity.

 

Let me know where you find it. I should replace mine too. thanks.