I am in the process of preparing to replace the gear oil on my '85 308 QV. I am looking for a little guidance here: 1) What fluid is recommended? I have seen a lot on Red Line 75W90NS, but I have always been a fan of Royal Purple on my other cars. 2) How many quarts does the transmission hold? 3) What is the proper procedure for refilling? Any information woudl be greatly appreciated.
joe : let me be the first to give you the lazyman's way. drain the case - plug closest to rear of car. pull fill plug (can be done in the engine compartment without removing wheel arch if you use an extension on your rachet with a universal joint). put in 5 quarts of your favorite trans fluid (i use redline mts with a small amount of chatter additive). done this way the trans will overfill by a very tiny amount - has never been a problem. regards, jon s.
One of the best procedural write ups is here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120201 Just verify the amounts req'd to fill your 308 and you're off to the races. FWIW, I use Red Line 75W90NS in my 308GT4. Shifts like buttah. JIM
There's a poll with lots and lots of replies and discussion about gear oil preference - search for it and read to your attention span's content. I will say I tried RP in my 328 since it was locally avail and one of the three most popular on the poll as I recall, but disappointed w.the results I switched to Redline 75/90...huge difference. 2nd gear cold shifts no problem (vs problem w.RP). Just see what your car likes.
I used Valvoline Synthetic and it shifts like butter on the GT4, but not on the 328. It does not go into second for the first 5 minutes.
The Previous owner of my 85qv used Royal Purple and it was terrible in my car - I switched to Red Line 75W90NS and it shifts like a new trans ! The difference was amazing. I change it annually , to keep it shifting like butter.
Question, some people that have used the Redline 75-90NS also said that they added a bit of the Modifier. What is the modifier for and how much do you add. Thanks
Redline NS is really slick and on some cars it can cause the rear differential to not properly lock up, causing a "chattering sound" and obviously limiting the utility of the locking differential. By putting a small amount of friction modifier in the gearbox oil, you up the frictional qualities of the oil just enough to eliminate the chatter while still maintaining the ultra slick properties of the NS. Of course, if you put too much in, than you have pretty much turned your NS oil into non NS oil. I recently changed my gearbox oil and bought some friction modifier from redline anticipating that I might get some chatter. I ended up not needing it and, according to my mechanic, he has never had to use it with any 308/328/mondials. That being said, there are enough posts on this board to indicate that there can occasionally be a problem in some cars with "chatter."
Mike, I haven't needed any of the additive (modifier) but I did buy some, just in case. (see photos) I think you add just a tiny amount of of it (maybe 1/4 oz at a time, until chatter stops), if you have a clutch chatter problem. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks everyone for the input. I printed out the info including the link from Jim and it looks like I should be good to go with this project. I am going to order the Red Line given everyone's feedback.
I am attempting to change the gear box oil today in my '85 308. I am attempting to get the 12mm Hex bolt out of the top of the transfer case, but it is seized in there. I have heated it with a torch and hit it with my impact wrench, but it will not budge. I was able to remove the small screw that is below it on the transfer case. Is this an option for filling the transfer case with the 3.8 ounces needed? It would be tough given how small the hole is, but getting the top bolt out does not appear to be an option. The top (larger circle in the picture) in the hex bolt, and the bottom (smaller circle) is what I am inquiring about. Your insight would be appreciated. I also posted this in the Technical section as well. Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you haven't already done so, try this old trick - TIGHTEN the stubborn fitting first. Yes, tighten it. It takes far less torque to tighten a stuck fitting than to loosen it. It only has to more the tiniest fraction. Any movement at all will beak it loose and then you can twist it out. It may be hard to remove and require you to loosen it a bit, retighten, loosen some more, retighten etc. This method works an astonishing amount of the time. Over the years, I got to where it is almost automatic to tighten a bolt/nut/screw before undoing it. I have also found that most of time"penetrants" don't do anything useful for removing stuck/seized fittings except make money for the penetrant-sellers. I've used them all - WD40 works as well (or as badly, depending on how you view it) as the expensive stuff like Kroil, PB blaster, etc.
Thanks Mike. I think I am going to take a two prong approach. First I am going to hit it with some penetrating oil and let it sit. Then try the method you proposed. I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks again.
My 85 QV was very difficult to get into 2nd cold. Once we put the 75/90NS in it shifts perfectly. I used no additive. MB
I did replace my 84 QV with the 75-90NS but I still have to wait for about 2min. before I can shift smoothly, is this normal or is there something wrong with my tranny?
Absolutely, one of the best loosening tricks of all time. My dad taught me this trick while he was working on a 1915 Model T Truck. You talk about corroded and stuck parts?!?! When things have been out in the weather for 50 years and tightened together for 80 years, they tend to get pretty welded together. Once he "tightened it," and broke the weld of corrosion, "it" usually came off without much of a hitch. Like Mike said, you may have to tighten, loosen; tighten, loosen (more); tighten, loosen even more, etc. like rocking a car to get out of a hole. Had to do this to get my oil dipstick tube off as there was so much road grime (and bent threads from a previous mech) in the threads. Mine was stuck too. I did it with everything in place (car on stands) and used a 1/2 drive socket wrench small cheater bar plus a rubber 3lb hammer. Tightened and then loosened. Take your time. It will come out.
hey, i have read the threads, hell i wrote a gear oil change one long ago, and my 308 manual clearly says to put 4 liters of gear oil in the gearbox. i even checked my carb 308 manual against my QV manual, and they are the same. why do i keep seeing threads saying to put in 6 quarts? is it ok to overfill it that much? wont it barf it out the vent on the Interstate or at track speeds? i want to do my QV fluid, and i only bought 4 quarts of the Redline.... i know its common to go +1 on the engine oil for corners, but +2 quarts of gearbox oil seems like alot. i bought a bunch of Swepco 201 for the 911, but i did put Swepco in one of the carb 308's and it worked great. i know my QV has the Redline in it, and it has no 2nd gear issues, so i wanted to go with whats there. i have used the GM limited slip additives with no issues in the past also. its in a small tube at all the parts stores.
I've tried five different oils in the last three years and can't find any that will allow me to shift into second cold other than Valvoline Synthetic.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=120201 this one, in this thread, the link is on the first page !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mr Garvin clearly says " 6 quarts " . as do several other threads in the archives. page 17 of my QV manual has the capacities chart showing .88 Imperial gallons ( not the same as a US gallon , i know) or 4 liters. 4 liters = 1.05668 gallons. or about 4 quarts. i am not one to split hairs, but i dont want to overfill, nor under fill by a significant amount. no offense to Birdman ( who has the same article on his excellent 308 site) , or Mr Garvin. just trying to do it right the first time. i put a wee bit too much gear oil in my red lambo jalpa the first time i did the service. it was fine until i got on I-95 and was moving with traffic. the gear oil got hot, thin, and was pouring from the vent / breather. you guys know how much that stuff smokes and smells when its on hot headers and mufflers!!!! it was awful! ps, i know you fill to spill from top fill plug until it *just* comes out of the bottom fill plug. but on jackstands i cannot level the car.
* Yes Mike, a couple of minutes (depending on outdoor temp) is normal. But you should still be able to shift into second right away, it just takes a little more effort. I still shift from 1st to third for the first few blocks, unless it's very warm outside, to be easier on the tranny.
"ps, i know you fill to spill from (the gearcase) top fill plug until it *just* comes out of the bottom (side) fill plug. but on jackstands i cannot level the car." Take the time to level the car with more jackstands at the front jacking points. If it's not level, how can you get all of the old oil out? Then, ideally, fill thru the top of the drop gear case, until oil comes out the side plug. This way there's no doubt as to how much oil to use. THEN record how much it took. NOTE: There is a bit of a time lag between oil in and oil out. Also, I prefer to use pieces of railroad ties in lieu of jackstands. Much more stable.
I didn't originally pick up on the "6" in the list of materials for Rob's procedure, but I don't see how you could ever put that much in if you do level the car and just fill to the bottom of the fill hole. He is confessing to intentionally overfilling by an extra pint so maybe that gets to 5 quarts total. Ditto what Fred posted.
