Hi, I was under my 308 the other day and noticed I could easily "wobble" one of the rear axles. Not the CV assembly, but the movement is where the wheel's axle assembly comes out of the bearing mount that the suspension bolts to. The wheel was sitting on a ramp at the time so it wasn't moving, just the shaft. See photo, the motion is at the point indicated by the arrow. (this is not a photo from my car) I'll pull the wheel this weekend, but does anyone have an idea what to look for, and how to best troubleshoot this without dissecting the whole assembly? Something just loose? A bad bearing? Something else? Thanks! Art Image Unavailable, Please Login
BAD BEARING would be my guess. Drive the car down the road and try to listen for any roaring noise and swerve the car left to right and see if the noise changes. ie Load and unload the bearing. We just did one on the carreapers 77 GTB. If you are taking to a shop do so soon. If you need step by step help let me know. Joe Frazar
Do you have several "hot" spots on the rotor? Look for little shiny spots all the way around it. I bet it's the bearings. Mine had to be replaced earlier this year. It's not a big deal but a shop needs to do it unless you have the correct tools.
Bad inner wheel bearing. Put it on jack stands, pull both rear uprights and do all 4 wheel bearings. It's an afternoon job, but will require a press. Do a search for wheel bearing on here. You will find threads that list the SKF part # and sources. I just did mine and I think they cost about $100 per side. The only other special tool you will need is a spanner nut socket to unbolt the stub axel from the upright. John
It's also possible that the hub shaft ring nut has been left or come loose, making the shaft wear on the bearing journal surface. If this is the case, the shaft can be re hard-chromed to size. Also, you may need to resurface the ends of the spacer inside the hub. Strip and check/lube/replace the outer wishbone solid bushes while you do this job. Little time/hassle saver... don't undo the brake pipe from the calliper... just remove the nuts on the inner flange where the flexi pipe joins the bracket and leave the calliper connected. Don't let it hang on the hose though... but if you have any doubts about the brakes, pay attention to it now too.
Step By Step Guide to Wheel Bearing Replacement: 1. Jack up car & remove rear Wheels. 2. Remove Caliper, Metal Brake line and Rotor. (You will have to rebleed brakes when done). 3. Remove the CV Bolts to joint on the transmission. (This is a job) I have a 3 foot 3/8 extension, an 8mm allen socket(might be wrong size), a breaker bar and a helper to hold the nut in the back side of the cv bolt. We tried an impact gun and would not budge the bolts. One by one remove the bolts. Shock them with a couple of blows from a small sledge hammer and let them have it to get them off. I could not believe how tight they were. DO NOT STRIP THEM OUT> Make sure you have a good quality allen socket. 4. Remove the Hub asym. - Very easy. Unbolt A arms and Shock. Remeber order of Shims, plates and Bushings ect. 5. With the Hub asym off - I used my impact gun and took the other cv joint bolts out no problem on the shop floor. 6. Mount the Hub asym in a vice. - (BIG ONE) - I bought the tool to remove the nut and it would not even fit inside the hub and get to the nut. Looks just like the nut for the steering wheel. The stupid Ferrari Only 4 prong type. I used a hammer and a chisle. The nut has a locking plate that is bent into a grove on the Hub - Just bend it out and reuse. 7. With nut off. - Go to your press and press out the spindle. 8. At this point you need pullers and your press to remove the races ect. 9. Grease the bearings ect. and press back together. 10. Reinstall hub asym and you are done. (This job is a pain in the a**) I hate it when I have to bang and strain on my car. This job requires it. I am very lucky that I have side post lift in my garage at home and press ect. My mechanics that work for me have all the tools that you need once in the shop. For the do it youself types I would suggest remove the hub asym yourself. Drop your cv axcels off at your local cv joint shop - New boots and a fresh overhaul. $80 an axcel. (This is what I did. He said the joints looked brand new - but the grease was old. He had no trouble matching the boots.) Take your hub asym to any competent mechanic with the tools to press out and reinstal your new bearings. Should be no more than 1 hours labor for both. HOPE THIS HELPS> Pardon my spelling - I have had some drinks tonite. Joe
( thanks Joe .... ) http://70.85.40.84/~ferrari/forum/showthread.php?t=64460 the cross ref thread in classic lists the bearing part numbers. here are a few pics of the job. Michael Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Joe Thanks for the blow by blow on the bearing removal. I think you convinced my to take it to a shop that can do this kind of work. I've done all the work so far on my car but working without special tools alone and without a lift would be asking for trouble. Not for the DIY novice.
