308 Rear Stub Axle / Bearing Rebuild Questions

i am doing my rear wheel bearings, hub bearings and cv axles right now. ( thanks JOE!) as far as we have been able to determine, the bearings are not common to any other application. T Rutlands had all the parts and the Ring nut tool in stock. the car is not here so i dont have the part numbers on hand right this minute.
i had my cv axle rebuilt for $70.00 . i have only done the right side as of this writing as i had a bad wheel bearing on that side. i will do the left side ASAP. i will know more this weekend , my car is at a friends house that has a lift in his garage.
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The last time I priced the bearings they weren't that expensive. I had the part number writen down for the SKF bearing..but I lost the paper I had it on(slaps forehead)...The problem with replacing the ring nut with a conventional one would be clearance issues in the axel flange..you'll see what I mean when you pull it apart.


Rob..when you get it apart let me know...I have a bearing guy here in Oakville..you may have heard of him Ted's Bearings on Speers road. He is a prick to deal with but he usually can get what you need, pretty cheap aswell. From what I remember each bearing was like 40 bucks or somthing along those lines..

 

Robert, one thing you will need is a large torque wrench. My 1/2" drive wrench didn't go up that high. Had to get a 3/4" drive torque wrench. The ring nut's torque is somewhere around 260ft/lbs when reinstalling.

 

Yes, T Rutlands and Maryland Metrics have the nuts. The seals are really more of a wiper. The outer is a reusable metal ring the inner is something you can get from a vendor too.

I'm in the middle of a restore, but just happen to be working on my rear uprights right now too.

http://photos.yahoo.com/[email protected]

look for the "Uprights" album.

Rick

 

The 328 manual (same carrier) shows the torque to be 22 kg/m. Which converts to about 159 ft/lbs.

Rick

 

The inners are SKF 62207-2rs1 and the outters are 62208-2rs1. I was able to get them for about $180 including tax. Surprisingly, the SKF boxes show a made in Italy, the inner bearings however are actually marked as Made in South Africa.

Rick

 

Thanks for the part # Rick. I am just about to takle this project. Where would I get these bearings from? Any web sites or do I just look for some place local.

Thanks
Bill

 

Rick, wow, cool tool making!

 

Anyone find a non Ferrari source for the seals? I'm about to start this project for a leaking seal.

 

Nevermind, I just checked Ferrari UK and they are cheap as dirt.

 

Bill, I would start with any local bearing supply house. My local supplier did not have them but got them out of Fontana overnight. Total cost for all 4 was $178. Hopefully you can get them cheaper, don't let them job you for more.

Rick

 

No, I bought mine from Brian Keegan (T Rutlands). I think they were about $17 each. If you call Maryland Metrics, just tell them you need a hardened 27 x 1.25 four notch ring nut with pinning flange. Some vendors call them Spanner nuts. I called MM looking for the tool. They had the nuts, not the tool. And I certainly wasn't going to pay $500 for the socket, so I just made my own.

Rick

 

Thanks Rick!

 

Finally had a chance to finish the rear uprights. Here's a finished product. The whole process is at

http://photos.yahoo.com/[email protected]

look for the uprights album.

Good luck!

Rick
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This is the exact same job I am doing right now. I have eveything apart. I am waiting for my new bearings to arrive now. I have to ask how did you get it to look so clean. Did you bead blast the hubs? Are they painted? Also, how did you torque your lock nut?

Thanks,
Sam

 

Rick job Rick!

Not sure why but the little rubber seal that just is bearely visible in your photo only lasted about 2 years on my car, now they are mysteriously gone???? I really wasn't sure which way they went on but think I got it right... It just had a lip that sat net to the shaft but wasn't really held by anything...
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Sam, they were bead blasted and then shot with Eastwood's Diamond Coat (clear) for bare metal. You bolt the wheel on and jam the whole thing up against the wall then you can get the leverage to get the 160 ft/lbs or torque. Helps if you have a friend handy to hold it steady.

Rick

 

Hey Rob, How ya doin?? So where did that trophy end up??

My original seals were still intact but kinda cracked and checked. So I just got new ones from Brian Keegan. I put the new seals on the way the old ones came off, there's pictures in my album I listed. I also smeared them with a lightweight grease... Hopefully the new ones will last as long!!

Rick

 

Just got a call from Rob and he was concerned about how the seal was located on inner side. Seems as though there may be a variant or two on the machining of the driven cup flange. Here are two pics showing the steps on the cup flange and the location and orientation of the seal on the first step. Rob, don't forget to post your pics on the differences.

Rick
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And here is what the seal looks like after final assembly. Its really more of a wiper than a true seal...

Rob, Hope this helps!

Rick
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Had some problems tonight, will post tomorrow, however mine was very different with no ledge to accomodate the seal. I just checked and both seals are gone, I thought I assembled it wrong but I think the parts are just different!!! My flange is definitely different from Ricks since I have a 75 that is not suprising but still.............