308 rear stub axle/upright clearance?

I'm in the midst of re-assembling my rear uprights after installing new bearings. I'm unsure of how far to press in the rear stub axle. What clearance is desired between the outer axle flange (where rotor seats) and upright face?

I think I've pressed mine in a bit too far, and my brake rotor seems very close to the upright/a-arms....

A photo would be VERY helpful!

Many thanks,
Greg
1977 308 GTB USA

 

Yep, the inner bearing is captive by a snap ring on the inside and a plate on the outside. The inbetween 4" spacer that the axle goes through does indeed stop the outer bearing from sinking too deep into the upright.

I pressed both new bearings in, then pressed the axle, with the outer dust cover in place. If memory serves, there was a little gap between outer axle flange, bearing dust cover, and upright face. As mine is now, the axle is snugged down right up to the dust cover/spacer. I guess this is correct but my rotor/upright clearance seems tighter now.

So, I attemped to press the axle out, but the darn outer bearing came off with it! This is my problem--the outer bearing is now "permanently" pressed onto the axle! So, I'm kind of stuck for now. My bearing puller can't get around the bearing, not enough clearance..

If anybody has any suggestions on how to remove the outer bearing from the stub axle, I'd love to hear it!! Then, is there a specific shim clearance for pressing the axle in? I don't think it's supposed to go all the way in....



Thanks,
Greg

PS--by the way, I've got about 4mm clearance between outer axle flange and upright face as it is now. My rotors are aftermarket Colemans (w/ Wilwood calipers). Clearance was tight but fine before....

PPS--Maybe somebody has measurements on the other side--how far out does the axle protrude from the upright? If I had this measurement then I'd be able to calculate the rest...

 

2NA,
Thanks for your responses to my problem.

Both sides are rebuilt, meaning, I no longer am able to compare old and new. I did take pictures, and they look really similar to "before".

Bearings are identical SKF.

So, you're saying that as I tighten the ring nut all the way( 160 ft/lbs, right?), it will draw the axle all the way in to the outer bearing dust cover, and that's normal? Well, then I'm OK because that's how they are right now. The inner spacer obviously will retain proper space between the 2 bearings, and will force the axle to draw in.

The outer bearing dust cover is just soft thin metal--is that really supposed to stop the axle from fully seating onto the upright?

Maybe I'm worried about nothing then...


Greg

 

Thanks 2NA..

Greg

edit: I googled "bearing separator" and found lots of hits, thanks much for that!

 

Thanks Verell,
So, to sum up, the axle should press in as far as possible, snug up against the bearing dust cover?

I can confirm that the inner bearing is fully seated against the c-clip--I was extra rigorous regarding this.

I think possibly the axles were previously removed and pressed in again by a PO, but not all the way, so I had the mental picture of there being a bit of a gap between outer axle flange and upright face. Again, I'm just talking about approx. 1/8".

Anyway, I buttoned her all up today and took her out for a spin. Felt really great, especially with my new quick-ratio steering rack!

Thanks guys...

Greg
77 308 GTB USA

 

Update: I removed/dis-assembled my rear upright again today, in hopes of removing the outer bearing off the stub axle. I'm trying gain 1/8" more clearance between axle flange and upright face. This is because my Wilwood rotors/Coleman rotors need it, in order for the inner rotor bolts to clear the cusom caliper bracket bolt I'm using. This would make MUCH more sense if I would post a picture. I will ASAP.. The caliper attaches to the upright by means of a bracket with an outer-facing bolt. This bolt needs to clear the inner rotor bolts...

I was able to remove the outer bearing, stuck to the stub axle, by using a bearing separator in conjunction w/ a jaw puller.

ANYWAY---Does anybody know if a certain shim is used to prevent the stub axle from pulling in too close as the ring nut is tightened? It seems that as full force is applied, the axle is pulled too far inboard, thereby reducing clearance between axle flange and hub face.

Is the axle supposed to pull all the way in until it can go no further? Seems that in doing so, the outer bearing dust cover would be crushed. This happened to me tonight. Friction resulted from the dust cover being a bit distorted, as I tightened the ring nut. The axle won't spin freely in this condition. (The bearings are OK, I pressed the axle back out a bit, and it spins fine.)

I know I keep asking this same question, but surely somebody out there has been through this, when replacing the rear wheel bearings..

A shim between axle flange and upright face would prevent the full seating of the axle against the dust cover/bearing...

All I'm needing to gain is about 1/8" Sorry for being so long-winded!!

Thanks,
Greg

 

Dust shield is oriented correct, 100%. It seats down on the lip, on the concave side. Great question, though!

Everything worked fine before all this began. My Wilwoods have been on the car for 2 years. Again, this issue is regarding a very small amount, maybe even 1/16". I can assemble it the way it is, but the caliper bracket bolt will need a thinner washer, resulting in it sticking too far out the other side, by a very small amount. This results in the caliper bolting up --just a bit--cockeyed, due to interference. I mean 1/16" off. I could grind 1/16" off the tip of the bolt, and get on down the road. However, remember, all this results in the wheel/tire being --just a bit-- closer inboard than the other side/how it should be..

I'm just picky. I know it was perfect before.

I'll try to take pix to show you guys.

Greg