308 Tach Flywheel Sensor | FerrariChat

308 Tach Flywheel Sensor

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Owens84QV, Oct 15, 2006.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. Owens84QV

    Owens84QV F1 Rookie

    Oct 2, 2001
    4,486
    Somewhere in NC
    Full Name:
    Greg
    I'm trying to troubleshoot an eratically running engine. Here's the story. Yesterday a bunch of us set out on a long drive. After an hour or so, we pulled over to the side of the road and I left my car idling for ~15 minutes. When I went to take off, the car began to idle real bad, sputter, and the tach was reading 7-8K RPM when I know it was really 3-4. The tach needle was very quick to 8K RPM. The car was backfiring and running real rough.

    What affect / role on engine performance, idle, etc does the tach sensor play?
     
  2. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,689
    North shore, MA
    Full Name:
    THE Birdman
    There are three crank sensors around the flywheel that generate electrical pulses from the teeth on the flywheel. These three sensors feed a pair of ECUs that control the spark, one for each bank. The tach is driven by one of the ignition ECUs. There isn't a specific sensor for the tach. One crank sensor feeds one ECU, the other sensor feeds the other ECU, and one sensor feeds both. Take a look at the schematic and you will see what I mean.

    The fact that your tach is freaking out as the problem appears is a dead giveaway that the crank sensor that is bad is one of the ones feeding the ECU that drives the tach, which makes it pretty easy to trace using the schematic.

    The sensor could be toast, or the connection from the sensor to the ECU could be dirty. I would start by disconnecting the sensors, cleaning all the contacts with electrical contact cleaner and put them back.

    Also, check the grounds on the ECUs as these are also known to cause the problem.

    If that doesn't fix it, you probably have a bad crank sensor. (They are no big deal. It's a coil of wire with a lead on it. They are about $100 from Ferrari UK, which is about 3 times what they should be, but not terrible.) They are accessible through the left rear wheel opening. They are not hard to remove, but they each have a two pin connector on a short lead that is very easy to reach and disconnect. Very easy to trouble shoot. Just disconnect the connector and measure the DC resistance across the pins with a ohm meter. They will read about 600-800 ohms if they are good, and very high to infinite resistance if one is bad. The good thing is they will tend to read bad when they are cold and may get flaky and intermittant as they get warm and they wire in them expands, so measure cold.

    Good luck.

    Birdman
     
  3. tatcat

    tatcat F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Sep 3, 2001
    11,013
    panama city beach FL
    Full Name:
    rick c
    ahh so.. birdman say crank sensor too.. very curious indeed. great minds think alike. you're getting good at this. don't you still have one of those in your tool box? the world awaits the outcome. good luck laddie.
     
  4. Owens84QV

    Owens84QV F1 Rookie

    Oct 2, 2001
    4,486
    Somewhere in NC
    Full Name:
    Greg
    Thanks for your help. You've answered a lot of questions. I had a crank sensor go bad about 3 years ago and since I assumed all were original (or of the same vintage), I replaced all then. I suspected the one rear sensor was bad (tach) because I was able to hit a comfortable speed and the car felt normal, except for the tach bouncing around. I've got the one sensor out and it appears to have a very small hairline crack that may be causing high resistance.

    Appreciate your help.
     
  5. Owens84QV

    Owens84QV F1 Rookie

    Oct 2, 2001
    4,486
    Somewhere in NC
    Full Name:
    Greg
    Ordered one from Dennis McCann this morning. While we were at the dog track, I had a suspicion it was a crank sensor. I confirmed it when on the way home, I was able to drive 70-75MPH and the car felt completely normal (no hesitation, no jerkiness) except for the tach bouncing around. It only acted up when I tried to get on it too quickly AND it wasn't issolated to a particular bank...both front and rear would hesitate. I figured either the cable jacket was worn or the sensor was bad. I disassembled last night and the cable jacket looks good so it must be bad sensor.

    What's agrivating is the cable is only ~3 years old. Oh well, I've heard of other who replaced a part only to have it go bad weeks / months later. I guess I shouldn't complain.

    I'll pull and clean all of the other electrical connections while I'm waiting for my replacement cable.

    Thanks again for your help Birdman! What a great place this is!
     

Share This Page