308 timing problem

Try a search on "rotor red mark" for some threads.

By "front", do you mean the 5-8 bank?

Do you have the cam covers on or off?

Is the other distributor cap on or off?

 

From some of your previous posts I seem to recall a carb car. Not sure with so little information but will assume only the front distributor removed.

On mine, I would set the flywheel on PM1-4. Then, remove the 1-4 distributor cap and verify rotor is pointing towards #1.

Now, rotate crank about 90 degrees clockwise and set the flywheel on AF7 (or whatever is the mark for idle on your car). Then, install the front distributor with the rotor pointing at the "notched mark" on the distributor base. Finally, install the distributor cap.

Then, try to start the car .

Once it's going complete the timing at 5000 rpm. On my flywheel the 5000 RPM mark was AF34 and the 1000 RPM mark was at AF7.

Seamus

P.S. I got my marks spot on at 5000 RPM but not so perfect at 1000 RPM . But running much better than when I started .

 

I just recently pulled a distributor and moved the engine and did a whole bunch of other awful things while setting up a new electronic ignition system. I put the flywheel marks on PM5/8, pulled the #5 spark plug, threaded in a compression tester hose without the gauge and (standing in the trunk) blew into the hose. Resistance means that #5 is compression stroke, blow-ability means #8 is on compression stroke. If it is #5 on compression, line up the red mark with the rotor and time normally. If it is #8, give the crank a turn and check again. A leak down tester would work as well, but most people don't have one handy.
I also made a little mark on the cam in Sharpie so I won't have to do that again!

 

The others described the process correctly -- an option with the cam covers on is to remove the engine oil fill cap so you can watch the action of the cyl #1 valves (as you turn the crank snout CW) to determine that the #1 cyl is at the end of its compression stroke (ready to fire) when you are at the PM1/4 mark -- and then rotate the crank snout another 90 deg CW to be at the PM5/8 mark and the end of the compression stroke for cyl #5 (but I like Seamus' suggestion to remove the 1/4 dist cap to confirm that the 1/4 rotor is pointing at its reference mark to confirm you are at proper occurence of the PM1/4 mark before turning the additional 90 deg to the PM5/8 mark).