Simply, wanted to be the 3000th add to this post. Yes I am an F owner, but wanted to set a precedence. Good luck in all you do, and to all Ferrari owners. The Cavallino rocks. It must never, ever be forgotten: 99.992% of the 7.2 Billion people on the face of this humble world, will never ever own what we own. Good luck bro, Cheers, as always, Dwight
Were the NACA ducts functional? Rarely did Ferrari employ gratuitous body elements but those just seem too close to the wheel liner to have been much use... Rick
Those are a pair of round tips wrapped with a cover it lloks like.....I'll need to think about that. It would be easier to with a pair of 2 1/4 pipes on each side because 3" pipe is massive and the bends take a lot of space. My stock QV muffler has 2 2 1/4 OD tips so I could do something that looks completely stock......the tips would just be hollow instead of having a 1 3/8" core tube. Or I could make a cover to wrap the tips like the turbo system you posted......more thinking.
I welded a little on head 1 last night....it would have been much easier to be more careful the first time. I need to get the guides out of the way, I'll try and do that today but Lana has some shopping plans for me I think.
Original V8 book has a great closeup of the turbo tips if you have it or if someone can post the pic. For some reason the pic in the book looks so much better (or I remember it better than it is). I would assume the lower ducts are functional like on the boxer, which are NOT brake cooling ducts as some books Ive read suggest. They simply dump what little air they grab into the area between the fuel tanks and inner fenders somewhat aimed at the engine possibly to add airflow and remove 1/3 of a degree of heat. They look cool though.
I just spent an hour staring at the intake side of the heads and sawing off the whole side and replacing it with billet was starting to make a lot of sense in my mind.....so it's time to go back to the headers until that fooliness passes.
Here's a picture of part of what I'd like to deal with in the ports. The side and top outside or the guides is very thin and I'm thinking should be just cut out about as shown and a new piece welded in. The easiest way to do this would probably be to cut it all out and weld a new tube below the seat and then if the cam and lift section were cut out then welding around the spring seats to seal the water from the oil would be a simple matter.......more thinking. Tube 1 of header #3 is redone and tucks in nice and tight so I can slide tube 3 over it and out of the way of header #4....I think. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I saw in some of the other header pictures that you're using different radius bends for the headers. I could only get a single radius from the company I used last time so my tubes would not "nest" like yours do. What different radii are you using? 3" seems to be the standard with 1.75" tubing which is what I'm using and what you used if I remember right. I'm thinking of 2.5", 3", and 4" for my next project.
Burns has 2.5, 3, 4 but the 3s only come as J bends for 18g. SPD also has 5 and 6. I have used some of all of them at this point. The tube I just built is 2.5, 2.5, 6. I just started laying out tube #3 and it looks like it will be 4 for 90 degrees, 2.5 for 180 degrees, 4" for 45 to tuck it in then another 4x 45 to get it pointing in the right direction.....maybe. On the rear I used a lot of 4s, maybe 1 5, several 3s and 1 2.5. A couple times I used part of a 3 and a 4 say to make a 3.5 or 3.75 of whatever to get the tube to the correct location. It really helps to have options. The collectors are 4" cut to 15 degrees with the straight leg left to form the collector out of. The 2 into 1 merge collector on the rear used a 3" on the inside and a 4" on the outside each angled in at 15 degrees. The differebt radii meant I had to start the outside one further down to get the right length which is why it looks a little funny.
It would be really nice to have lots of different bends like that. I'll have to see what I can afford. This is not really a project that I can justify big money on so we'll see. Can't wait for more pics of the headers!
The bigger radii stuff does cost more than the small radii because it takes more pipe to make them but that means they go further too so it kind of works out. Having to buy the 3" R as a J meant paying 50% more for them which sucks so I try to stick to 4" when I can. The 18g was cheaper than 16g too so that made the Burns prices competitive with Megs particularly when you can put together big orders because Burns drops the price on orders over $500 and again over $1000.......SPD is just plain expensive and you need to be a proper shop with pictures of your proper shop to get any kind of discount. I'm trying very hard not to have scrap and only buy what I need but I think my exhaust is going to end up 3 times what I budgeted.......SS pipe is just plain expensive.
I think I'm going to end up buying about 1/2 3"R cheap from mandrel-bends.com and the rest from SPD just because I'm doing mild steel and Burns doesn't list that. My other option is to do all stainless from mandrel-bends.com but but then I can only get 3" radius because that's all they have. It's not the same quality as SPD or Burns but I have used it before and it's not bad at all.
If you don't mind welding you can make 3" Rs turn into close approximations of 4, 5, 6 by chopping them into say 15 or 30 dregree pieces and puting in staight sections. Its more work but it would give you a nice looking finished job. I'm planning to do soming like this to make a large sweeping bend over the bellhousing.
True, I'll have to think about that. My header flanges have round ports and they are about 7/16 thick so I have quite a range there to play with before it gets too "cheated" and cuts flow. I really only want the tighter bends for where my tubes come down to meet the collector. When are you going to get back to header fab?
I'm back to it now. I did the 1 tube last night and started laying out tube 3. I should be able to do the rest of header #3 done this afternoon......after another shopping trip. Then header #4 during the week I guess.
Cool. I'm glad someone can get to work this weekend. My project car was supposed to be delivered Wednesday but that didn't happen so my weekend was wasted. Post up those pics!
Header 3 is shaping up. I'm not quite happy with the center pipe yet but its close and I'm sure I can finish it up tomorrow night. It's tucked in nicely now so there should be no problem finding room for header #4. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mark, What do you think of the new welding shield? Notice much difference between the green or the gold?
I dont honestly notice much difference as far as the color goes. My instant on helmet came last week and Ive been using that lately and I like it .but I definitely miss the 4x4 lens in my standard helmet, it seems like this 4x2 is never int the right spot. The problem might be that its a cheap helmet and they obviously took a standard cheap 4x4 helmet and dropped in the instant on lens which is 2 of solar on top and 2 of lens on the bottom . meaning that the center is the transition line right where the helmet is designed to have you look.
I fixed the center pipe tonight so heads #3 is all set to weld....I think. I'm going to tack up head #4 and make sure everything fit befroe I do the welding. These headers will be a true tribute to the concept of nesting pipes it looks like. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Things are really coming along - thanks for the latest pictures. Do you have any time estimates on the 'first drive' or is there still much to do before you start picking a date? All the best, Andrew.
Oh man .spring 2011 maybe? The vague plan is to have the engine assembled june/july time frame but that will really be pushing as I think Im looking at 2-4 months to get the heads finished. Then there is still the oil system, fuel system, cooling system, air intake, probably hood mods, ECU and wiring, and I was in the middle of a brake upgrade when I started this V12 nonsense that still needs to be finished. If I can get the engine done by even fall '10, spring '11 looks good for operational.
