You got your block back before i got my heads done?? What's up with that?? That's great! Now lets see what kind of magic they did on the old block.
It look a lot like it did when it went out....but straighter I did a quick test fit up tonight….it actually looks like there’s hope that it might not some day! Finally the pics Newman has been waiting for. ….I’m not so sure about my compressor though. It made a bad sound……although maybe with a bit of weld..... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lift on those cams in the engine pic looks ok but I'd have to say you have a little too much duration Stick with a belt drive compressor. I had one direct drive and couldn't wait to get rid of it. I'll never own one again unless I'm just filling up bicycle tires with it.
Well, at least it's easy on the cams and valves. Might as well weld those valves fixed in the open position, or will that warp the heads again?
you know, you do have a V12 sitting there.......... maybe you could rig that up to your compressor. just a thought
Oh, and probably late, but here's some photos of the EFI conversion that's sitting in my kitchen. The bosses were trimmed down, and the injectors will be held in with the o rings and the rail. I've tried the 90 degree rotation and it doesn't quite clear, but could be made to work. We're probably going with a spacer and an aftermarket throttle body. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I thought you'd like that. I still need to add bosses to the heads to bolt the chain cover to, but the major stuff looks like it will work at this point. The next hurdle where mega fabrication is required is to get the bell housing and drop gears on.....since I very cleverly changed the engine position relative to the tranmision input shaft. I also have to figure out where to install the drysump return pump. I'd really like it inside the engine/sump and chain driven if there is any possible way to do it. I have a 360 oil pump sitting here that I can work a deal to keep if it looks like I can use it.....it's going to take some thought to come up with something nice and clean looking.
I'm still working on it, thanks for the pics. I thing your injectors are right about where I have mine mounted right now.....I was going to lower them another inch with new bosses, but yours doesn't look too bad....more thinking.
There was a company named Barns that makes/made direct drive drysump systems for race engines. They were for American Iron and used mostly by the dirt track guys since belt driven pumps can be a problem in dirt. Maybe they have something that could work?
I've seen them and that is a good option. I'd like the pump inside, but if that looks like too much bother, right on the front end of the crank seems like a good spot.
Time to start the belhousing work I guess...... I let my neighbor sawsall the trans end cover apart tonight. I figured I couldn't hog all the sawsalling the ferrari apart to myself......now he'll have a summer vacation story that will be hard to top Now I just need to clean it up on the mill and the easy part of this job is done. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
He's not fast, but he's almost always right I got a little of Vic's time tonight to talk cams and flow. He thinks a little more duration than I was thinking, 235-240. He's thinking 240 if I'm running the compression up at 10:1 or higher and that will yeild about 770hp with a flow of 150....within a couple % of the estimates I was getting. I've got a trip the Alaska next week but when I get back I'm going to run up to NY, pick up the QV heads and see what flow numbers I get on the TR head on Vic's flow bench to make sure we're on the same page ad also get some advice on cutting seats.
I'm going to be off to alaska until the 25th, but I really wanted a quick look at the bell housing mess before I went so I can ponder it over the next few days while smiling (becasue I'm drinking) and pretending to care about trees and ice (I sure hope Lana's not reading this ) I cleaned up the trans end casting enough to get it to fit on and slapped the bell housing on in about the right place. I have a flange that fits the engine, it was the trans adapter. I'm thinking I can chop about an inch off the bell housing casting and may weld on that flange.....then do something about the trans shaft and idler bearing, I guess weld in a chunk of bar stock and cut it the way I want it. Maybe......although having seem me in action I'll most likely think of a much harder way in the end Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
One thing that will need to happen is to extend the hub on the trans gear. While Im at it Id like to swap the engine and trans gears, that will drop the engine rpms and lower the torque the transmission sees. My plan was to wire EDM the existing hubs out of both gears leaving a much larger spline then make new hubs to match the gears but with the internal features to work with the shafts I want to put them on. Im pretty sure it would work fine but 1 piece gears would be neater and stronger ..but having custom gears ground is really not in the budget. While I was talking to Jay, the EDM guy about the hubs he told me he was pretty sure he could wire EDM a helical gear ..very interesting. Now I need to figure out how to model the gears in ProE and hell give it a try. Very Cool.
I was cleaning up a little tonight and looking at stuff. I noticed how thin the metal is on the clutch hub....which made me thing that the trans gear will probably be just fine if I open the hub up to fit the clutch shaft. I'll have about 0.1" of metal which is about double what the clutch hub has. Just saved myself having to make 1 gear I think way up on the has to happen list is I need to drop the crank in the block so I can figure out exactly what I can do with the flywheel and clutch mounting so I know how much I can shorten the bellhousing. I'm pretty sure I can take out at least 1 inch, I'm hoping it's closer to 2". Edit: I'm waiting for a guy who wants to look at the bike I have for sale so I did a quick measure of everything.....I'll be lucky to be able to cut out 1/2".....it looks like there is SOOOO much space until you try to fit everthing in there. Shoot..... Image Unavailable, Please Login
I wonder if there is an Italian version of a Tilton or Ram clutch that would fit in there. The ones we use contain all the mating surfaces within the clutch and mount to a flexplate from an automatic. 6.25 inches in dia. Not sure if that would help or hurt since it sounds like thickness is more of a problem then dia? Or even the older style Tilton where you use the old flywheel but machine most of the friction surface away down to the 6.25" dia and drill through holes through the flywheel for studs to mount the pressure plate to the flywheel. Get rid of the cable clutch and put in a hydraulic throwout bearing and now your really talking something nice to drive. Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's killing me too....but I'm on a ship off the coast of Alaska so no news until I get home in a couple days.
I have a tilton 7.25" triple disc carbon/carbon clutch I'll be using. It worked very well with a modified cable linkage, but I may go hydraulic this time if I can save any space that way.
Do you do work for the NAVY? There are only a few things I can think of worth operating a ship off the coast of Alaska this time of year, and about zip that would get me out there. A cruise, a crab, or military intelligence/testing. Im thinking your probably not out there for crabs, and its near the end of the cruise season. Cueing up Magnum PI music......
