308 warm up valve bypass | FerrariChat

308 warm up valve bypass

Discussion in '308/328' started by Andyinfrance, May 27, 2021.

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  1. Andyinfrance

    Andyinfrance Karting

    Dec 29, 2019
    86
    France
    Like many 308 owners who don’t like the idea of having the engine rev madly at warm up I want to remove the unnecessary valve
    Just wanted to ask if anyone has removed the 3 way connection on the pipes and bypassed it with a single piece of hose? It would have to be bent slightly into an “S” shape to fit bit seems relatively easy to do.
    The other pipe on the lower end in the photo would still have to be plugged i guess unless there’s a bypass pipe can be made for that too?
    Also wanted to ask if people have removed the solenoid that activates this valve as this would then be useless as I couldn’t find any threads on that, seems to make sense?
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  2. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    If you want to get rid of the cold start high RPM because you don't like the sound of the immediate 2k (or whatever), that's fine but if you are worried about increased engine wear, forget about it. The critical thing on an engine starting is that oil pressure come up as quickly as possible. Obviously, oil pressure comes up quicker if the RPM is higher. What this means in reality is that the number of revolutions that the engine has to rotate from the instant it starts until pressure builds to a proper level is about the same regardless of the initial idle RPM.
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Its really annoying and noisy.
     
  4. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    I would just leave it in place and reroute the vacuum line. Cars with all the OE parts are worth more at resale and that gets to be more important with age.
     
  5. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    I dont think the motor revving at whatever RPMS at start up, can be considered " mad " or to high. Ferrari has engineered / designed the car to work like it does on cold start up. LIke 996 has mentioned, not to worry about engine wear , and I agree with that. My car has 103 k miles, my fast idle works perfectly, I am of the more "anal " when it comes to all the systems of my car working correctly , other than the AC, which is now rebuilt and working correctly. The fast idle, or cold start RPMs, gives the motor a chance to heat up and to get the 9.5 quarts of oil circulating as it should. I would leave it as it should be, other than replace the unit thats causing the buzzing sound.

    Thank you
     
  6. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

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    I agree, it is that!
     
  7. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #7 Rifledriver, May 27, 2021
    Last edited: May 27, 2021
    This system is only on 80-83 US 308's. If you are not driving one of those you have not experienced what happens. It was installed to pass US emissions only until the new fuel injection system was available in 1984.
     
  8. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    I was under the impression that whichever the system , fast idle , whether on fuel injected or carbed 3x8s was just that particular model years warm up, or cold start system revs , my 89 revs at about 1100 RPMs on cold start up. I usually let the car idle at that rate until it drops, or after a couple of minutes until I drive off. Im not going against you, just asking, I know your just about the most experienced here with Ferrari. My car will not pass smog when tested unless its run on the dyno, it will not pass on static , maybe my car has a problem that I am not aware of.

    Thank you
     
  9. Andyinfrance

    Andyinfrance Karting

    Dec 29, 2019
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    France
    1100 RPM would be acceptable for a warm up but 2500-3000 is crazy, and as stated only on US models for emissions so not really necessary as no other car has them


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  10. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    80-83 is different. Runs about 3000 rpm for about 2 minutes at cold start. The parts in the picture are on no other model.
     
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  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Connect the hose from the valve directly to the intake manifold port. Then it will work like all the rest.
     
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  12. Andyinfrance

    Andyinfrance Karting

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    I agree that any rerouting or removal would be reversible if required in the future, this procedure shouldn’t be difficult to do


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  13. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Removed parts get lost nearly 100% of the time. I have been through that 1000 times.
     
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  14. Andyinfrance

    Andyinfrance Karting

    Dec 29, 2019
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    [emoji106]


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  15. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    Brian,

    Can you describe that better or 'paint a picture' so a dummy like me can follow, and what would that 'reroute' change in operation of the car?

    Posted this before I read your later post but am still lost. :(
     
  16. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    The valve is held closed by vacuum so you need a constant vacuum source. There is one hose from the plenum chamber vacuum port to an electrovalve. There is another hose from the elctrovalve to the additional air valve. Make the hose at the additional air valve go directly the the vacuum port on the plenum.
     
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  17. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    Decades ago I replaced the above assembly in the picture with the simple tube below.

    The replacement tube was a correct OEM part, likely for non-USA models of the same era.

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  18. Brian Harper

    Brian Harper F1 Rookie
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    On my previous car I put an aluminum plug inside the hose. I put a hole in the center to flow a little air. That hole was maybe 3/16"? It reduced the 2k+ rpm to a much more reasonable 1200-ish RPM while cold, perfect for a cold start and much more normal feeling.
     
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  19. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    With this and Dave's pic, I 'GOT IT.' :)

    THANX Guys.
     
  20. Andyinfrance

    Andyinfrance Karting

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    I don’t suppose you have a record of the part number that you bought for it? It’s exactly what I’m looking for


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  21. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    No, but as I recall at the time I pulled up the factory parts guides for the USA-spec version, and then the Non-USA-spec version, and compared the two.

    You can then identify the parts of interest between them, and use the guide documentation to get the part numbers.
     
  22. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

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    A lot of manufacturers did this to get the catastrophic converters heated up into their "operating temperature window" more quickly. As such, I believe "mechanical sympathy" took something of a back seat. I would not assume it's a good thing or okay just because they did it.
     
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  23. mwr4440

    mwr4440 Five Time F1 World Champ
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    ^ '... catastrophic converters ...'

    I know it's an 'Auto-Correct' error,

    But it's quite Apropos at times, too.

    :D
     
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  24. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

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    No Auto-correct. Very deliberate [emoji3]
     
  25. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    Catastrophic , meaning , or referring to those dreadful catalytic converters ?

    Thank you
     

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