308 Weber to TWM throttle body and electromotive

Thanks Mark. hey, what is your take on the injector rating i am using. Do i really need to go to something like 19 or 22 lbs/hr? instead of the 26lbs/hr that i have currently?

 

Hi Paul, i wish i had 350 HP. I do plan on going to the dyno - but keep in mind it will be at altitude - about 5500 feet above sea level. I bet at sea level i might be around 300 HP with my euro cams, hi comp pistons and dual exhaust. Sean, thank you for the input on your 308. What HP do you think you have? 30lb injectors - are you running sequential? what EFI setup do you have - throttle bodies like my TWM??. After hearing the responses from you all, i feel a bit better about my setup with 26lb injectors. I do have an A/F readout in my wintec software for the electromotive - and i will be paying attention to that number - hopefully my O2 sensor will deliver an accurate reading....

 

Yes, modified the carby intake manifolds with a cutout for each injector to accomodate the injector spray. because of the diameter differences, we tapered the plastic spacer under the throttle bodies to go from 44mm down to 40 mm. It is not a straight swap by any means - lots of work to be done here if you want to use your original dcnf linkage, levers, and velocity stacks.

 

Time for another update. In order to raise the fuel pump high enough to be above the chassis, I had to dump the stock fuel filter. I then cut the bracket on the new pump to fit up higher and to the right of the fuel tank. The new trick flow filter flows 150 GPH (way more than I need), and has a reuseable 45 micron filter. In order for the correct injector spray into the manifolds, I had to rotate 2 of the throttle bodies (front bank) to orientate the injector spray onto the back of the intake valve. Once I did this, the linkage did not want to work correctly, and TWM was a few months out for making new levers for the throttle bodies – I don’t think they would have worked anyway – long story. So, I removed all 4 throttle plates and shafts from those 2 throttle bodies and flipped them so that the throttle plates open in the opposite direction – thus enabling me to use the stock linkage with hardly any issues (barely noticeable in the second pic). In doing this, I will only have one idle adjustment screw active as well as one throttle stop (which will not be a problem because I will use very precise heim joints. And, because of this, I will have to source new springs that rotate in the opposite direction to accommodate switching the throttle plates. We did however, grind down the throttle body casting where the shaft protrudes from the body – to accommodate a better connection for the throttle stop and idle adjustment screw. Heim joint rod ends are on the way, and we will most likely have to fabricate the connecting rod (long nut) in between them.
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some more updates: I am ready to bolt the intake manifolds and tb units to the car. been a long road. heim joint rod ends are incredible. My machinist carved out a throttle stop and idle stop lever for one of the throttle bodies since i lost that functionality by re-orientating the throttle bodies to accomodate the correct injector spray. see pics. Hopefully the next post (in a few weeks at least) i will have good news, ie: car fired up and is tuneable......
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Intake manifolds and throttle bodies are mounted to the car. Fuel rails installed with injectors. Fuel pressure regulator and fuel return system is plumbed in to pasenger fuel tank and bottom of fuel pump (for priming purposes). Injector wiring harness is complete – had to daisy chain 12 volts and get a bit creative since 2 injectors are firing at the same time due to the staged sequential operation of the tec gt. Throttle position sensor had to be reworked because it had to work backwards due to turning around one bank of throttle bodies. Due to turning it around, drilled out the backside of sensor to be fitted on throttle shaft. But then the brake booster manifold fitting was in the way of the connector to the TPS, hence I did away with connector and directly soldered on leads , heat shrink wires and fill with jb weld. Getting there, got to plumb in fuel system input with filter and pressure guage. Need to rework PCV system as the fuel rails are in the way of the crossover PCV tubing – am looking into flex line for this – necessary if I want to go with stock airbox. But for now, I will fit the individual air cleaners for tuning purposes.
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More progress, Fuel return, pressure regulator, filter and gauge all installed. Fuel pressure test passed, pressure now adjusted to 43 PSI. fit check with stock airbox is perfect. Need to redo the PCV system because the fuel lines are in the way. throttle linkage clears everything and is smooth as silk. Injector wire harnes is connected. All sensor parameters (baseline and max) are programmed into the BIN file and downloaded to the ECU. I hope to attempt to start the car up this weekend!!!!!!
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thanks Russ, i am fitting the stock air horns - had to carve out the tops of the throttle bodies for that to work. these are 44 mm bodies - had to taper the plastic spacer between throttle body and intake manifold for that transition. I think i am the first to utilize just about all the stock linkage levers, stock air horns and stock air box on this mod

 

Hey Russ, glad you like the setup. I always thought this system would best compliment your porting, exhaust and cam endeavors. it has been a long road, and now the home stretch. Couldnt get the system to start the car last nite, after massive troubleshooting, i discovered the power harness from electromotive was wired incorrectly (this was wired at the factory by them). so now i am loking into the best solution - geez man. I believe my borgo pistons are 10:1 or 9.5:1, they are for the ferrari daytona. my car is a euro, so stock euro 308 cams if that makes a difference. fuel rails down the center was the only to orientate teh injector spray to the back of the valve - rails on the outboard gave a fuel shot against teh side of the intake manifold. On the valley getting hot, i thoroughly insulated the "V" area with 2 layers of hi tech insulation along with the coolant pipe going down the center. see my vapor lock thread. drawing in cooler air from the drivers side duct helps a lot also, but now that you mention it Russ, i just may insulate those fuel rails too (like i did on the carby setup).

 

after re-doing some wires in the power harness, the car fired right up!!!!!! what a sound, i think it sounds better than with the webers because there is no restriction in the bores of the throttle bodies. I put the wheels on and went for a quick drive (about 1 mile down the canyon). the TBs needs to be synchronized, i think i am runing a bit rich. but from first inpression, the throttle response is very snappy,, at low RPMs the car really pulls, much better than before, didnt take it above 3500rpm yet. Feels like i picked up a few extra cylinders over the weber setup. also, very smooth transitions, not a hint of any dead spots, unlike the webers that would stumble or surge at very gradual acceleration. all i can say is WOW, this was a good mod for sure. plan of attack is to set up the computer and TBs as best i can, and go to the dyno in a week or so - depending on the weather in colorado.